Ukufika eTecolutla, ngomgwaqo no. 129 kufanele uhambe cishe amakhilomitha angama-500, unqamule izifunda zaseHidalgo nasePuebla, ngaphambi kokufika ePoza Rica lapho uthatha khona umgwaqo oya ePapantla noma uye enyakatho, uma uthanda ukuya eTuxpan.
Ngalesi sikhathi sisuke eMexico City entathakusa ngoba sifuna ukufika ogwini ngesikhathi sedina.
Indawo enhle, egcwele ama-conifers, iyajatshulelwa phakathi nohambo, kunconyelwa emini ngoba inkungu idume kakhulu esigabeni esiphakathi kwe-Acaxochitlán neHuauchinango, lapho kukhona nezitebele ezidayisa utshwala nezilondolozi zezithelo zesifunda. Ngendlela, ekuphakameni kwedamu laseNecaxa, edolobheni laseSan Miguel, ezinye izindawo zokulala nezindawo zokudlela zikufanele ukuma ukuma izinyawo zakho futhi ujabulele umbono omuhle.
Kepha, njengoba indawo esiya kuyo yehlukile, siyaqhubeka nomgwaqo onamajika, sicwiliswe enkungwini futhi sesivele sehla, ngemuva kokudlula iXicotepec, amasimu kabhanana abanzi ayabonwa. Akubanga nje isikhathi eside ngaphambi kokuba sithole abathengisi bezitshalo ezijwayelekile ezithosiwe, ezinoshukela noma ezinosawoti eziqongweni, ezanelisa isifiso sethu sokuthola ukudla ngokunambitheka okwehlukile.
Ukungena ePapantla, etholakala ngamakhilomitha angama-43 entshonalanga yeTecolutla, futhi eyasungulwa ngamaTotonacs cishe ngekhulu le-12, uphawu lukhombisa ukuthi ngamakhilomitha amahlanu kuphela ukusuka lapho kuyindawo yemivubukulo yase-El Tajín, futhi yize ingafakiwe ezinhlelweni zethu Kuyakhanga kakhulu, ngakho-ke siguqula inkambo yokwazi leli dolobha langaphambi kweSpanishi elatholakala ngengozi ngo-1785 lapho isikhulu saseSpain sasifuna izilimo zikagwayi eziyimfihlo.
UKUHLONIPHA UNKULUNKULU WEZULU
Ekufikeni, esigcawini sokungena esibanzi esizeni, sizungezwe indawo yezentengiselwano egcwele ubuciko nezingubo zendabuko ezivela endaweni, umbukiso waseVoladores de Papantla uqala, ongomunye wesiteleka kakhulu phakathi kwemikhuba yaseMesoamerican, okufanekiselwa ngumhlaba ngenkolo yelanga nokuzala komhlaba. Labo ababona lo mcimbi okokuqala bayamangala ngesibindi sabadansi lapho bekhuphukela esiqongweni sesiqu esiphakeme kakhulu futhi beboshwe ngezintambo okhalweni lwabo behla beyizindingilizi eziyi-13, belingisa izinkozi lapho zibaleka, baze bathinte phansi ngezinyawo.
Ngemuva kokujabulela lokho okuhlangenwe nakho okushaqisayo, nokuziqondisa ekuhlelweni kwendawo, singene eMnyuziyamu lapho imodeli ye-didactic isebenza njengesiqondisi sokuqala. Bachaza ukuthi ukwakhiwa kwaleli dolobha elisogwini, elinemvelaphi yaseTotonac, kwakubonakala ngokuhlangana okungaguquguquki kwezinto ezintathu, imithambeka, izingqinamba zemifino kanye nezimboni ezigelezayo, ngaphezu kokunyakaza okunyathelwe. Baphinde bagqamise ukubaluleka kweBall Game, umdlalo wesiko, kwazise izinkantolo eziyi-17 zitholakele lapho.
Silahlekelwa ngumkhondo wesikhathi lapho sihamba phakathi kwamabhilidi anelukuluku asabalele endaweni eyi-1.5 km2, phambilini okwakuhlala kuwo amathempeli, ama-altare noma izigodlo, futhi-ke, siyakhangwa yiPiramidi yaseNiches yasekuqaleni, enezimbotshana zayo ezingama-365 ngaphandle kokungabaza ehambelana nonyaka welanga kanye nama-cornices ayo amaningi, ahluke kakhulu kwezinye izikhumbuzo zangaphambi kweSpanishi. Uhambo lwethu luphela kuphela lapho bexwayisa ngokuvalwa okulandelayo kwendawo, okumiswe iphunga le-vanilla, imigoqo yayo ithengiselwa izivakashi.
NGASEKUQHAMUKENI KWESIQINIKI
Cishe kumnyama lapho singena eGutiérrez Zamora, ngokufana nezizibuko zoMfula iTecolutla, maqondana nedolobha lezivakashi laleli gama. E-Hotel Playa "Juan el Pescador" umnikazi wayo, uJuan Ramón Vargas, umongameli we-Association of Hotels and Motels, usilindele kusukela emini, umthandi othembekile wendawo azalelwa kuyo futhi ongumhlahlandlela omuhle wokubuka okukhangayo kwendawo, ngaphezulu ngale kwamabhishi noma izindawo zokudlela ezingenakubalwa ezinezitsha ezimnandi, ngokususelwa kuzithelo zolwandle.
Ngokuqondile, akukho lutho olungcono ukudambisa i-voracity yalawo mahora kunokujabulisa ulwanga ngesiphuzo esimnandi se-shrimp ne-fillet yenhlanzi ne-garlic sauce, ehambisana nemifino, ngemuva kokuzinza egumbini lethu elibheke olwandle. Kamuva, sihambahamba emigwaqweni ethulile yaleli dolobha lapho cishe izakhamizi ezingama-8 500, ngenkathi ephakeme ifinyelela cishe inani eliphindwe kathathu laleso sihambeli, iningi lesizwe nelivela esifundazweni esifanayo, kanye nakwezinye izindawo ezingomakhelwane, njenge IHidalgo, iPuebla noma iTamaulipas.
Unyaka nonyaka, ngaphezu kwalokho, babiza imiqhudelwano emibili eyinhloko yokudoba imidlalo ezweni, owaseSábalo nowaseRóbalo, obandakanya ingxenye enkulu yabantu baseTecolutla naseGutiérrez Zamora, selokhu abadobi babo behamba ngezikebhe zabo kwabangenele umncintiswano futhi basebenze njengabaqondisi abahamba phambili, kuyilapho amakamelo alo ayi-1 500 egcwele, asatshalaliswa kumahhotela angaba ngu-125, iningi lawo kungabanikazi bendawo, nezindawo zokudlela ezingaphezu kwekhulu, ezitholakala endaweni yasolwandle kuphela. Ngokunjalo, basitshela ngomunye umcimbi waminyaka yonke obaluleke kakhulu kulesi sizwe, i-Coconut Festival, lapho kulungiswa khona ukhukhunathi omkhulu kunayo yonke, ngoba ngonyaka odlule kuphela bacubungula amakhukhunathi ayizinkulungwane eziyisithupha namathani amabili kashukela, phakathi kwezinye izithako. Ngaphandle kokungabaza, umgubho ngamunye unikeza izaba ezinhle zokubuyela kulo muzi wokudoba.
IPHaradesi LENDABA
Enye yezintelezi zaseTecolutla ngamabhishi anendawo yokungena yomphakathi, ngoba kunamakhilomitha angaba ngu-15 ogwini olubheke olwandle oluvulekile, imvamisa kunamagagasi athambile futhi afudumele, ngaphandle kwalapho kuhlasela khona inyakatho. Kodwa, isimanga esikhulu kumhambi yizichweba zomfula iTecolutla, okuthi, noma sekuntwela ezansi, silungiselela ukuhamba ngesikebhe somninikhaya wethu "Pataritos". Ngendlela, igama elihle lesikebhe kungenxa yokukhethwa komdala ezinganeni zakhe, owasiqamba kanjalo ngenkathi esaqala ukukhuluma.
Kunemifula emithathu evakashelwa kakhulu, i-El Silencio, enamakhilomitha ayisihlanu okuhanjwa nawo, evundile emihlathini kanye nobuhle obungakwazi ukubalula ngamagama. Akusilo ize igama lalawo manzi angemuva, ngoba lapho injini icishiwe ngisho nokubhonga okuncane kakhulu kwezinambuzane noma amazolo ehla kancane esiqongweni sezihlahla kuyezwakala. Ngokuqhubeka, siya e-Estero de la Cruz, ukuthola indawo eyi-crystal clear 25 km, lapho kuvame ukudotshwa khona, kuyilapho ichweba lomfula iNaranjo, elikhulu kunawo wonke, elinamakhilomitha angaba ngu-40, linqamula amapulazi ezinkomo nama-orange groves. Kuyindawo ye-bucolic, ekahle ekubukeni kwezinyoni, sibona ama-ibis, ama-cormorants, ama-parrot, ama-parakeets, i-redfish, izinkozi, oklebe, izindwandwe noma amadada ezinhlobo ezahlukahlukene. Eqinisweni, ukuhamba emachwebeni akhuthaza ukuxhumana okugcwele nemvelo, okwaziyo ukwehlisa ngakusasa ekuseni wonke umthwalo wokucindezeleka olethwe enhlokodolobha enkulu.
Endleleni ebuyayo, uJuan Ramón usisa lapho uFernando Manzano, owaziwa kakhulu ngabantu bakubo njengo "Papa Tortuga", okwathi, ehola iqembu lezemvelo iVida Milenaria, ebelokhu elwa iminyaka eminingi impi ebambelele ekuvikeleni izimfudu zasolwandle, asiza kuzo ukukhiqiza futhi ukhiphe unyaka nonyaka amaqanda achanyuselwa phakathi kwamaqanda ayizinkulungwane ezinhlanu kuya kweziyisithupha kusuka emaqandeni asendaweni ngenxa yokuhlangenwe nakho kwawo okukhulu, ngokuxhaswa ngamavolontiya amaningi nemindeni yawo, ekuhambeni okude emabhishi azungezile. Futhi ngaphambi kokuya eCosta Smeralda, sivakashela indawo yokulungisa i-vanilla eGutiérrez Zamora, eyomndeni wakwaGaya kusukela ngo-1873, lapho bachaza zonke izinyathelo ezidingekayo zokuthola izithako noma ugologo walesi sithelo esinamakha.
UMGWAQO OYA E-PUERTO JAROCHO
Eduzane nomgwaqo omkhulu obheke edolobheni laseVeracruz, okubizwa ngokuthi yiCosta Esmeralda kuyanda, umzila obizayo onamahhotela amancane, ama-bungalows, izindawo zokukhempa nezindawo zokudlela. Sima kancane e-Iztirinchá, elinye lamabhishi anconywe kakhulu, ngaphambi nje kweBarra de Palmas, lapho kungenzeka khona ukujwayeza ukudoba uphumule ngokukhululeka. Ukusuka lapho umgwaqo uyasuka ogwini, uye eSanta Ana, lapho sithola khona izindawo zokulala neziphakeli ezilula, yize kusePalma Sola naseCardel lapho sithola khona futhi izindawo eziningi zokuhlala. Lapho silayisha uphethiloli futhi umgwaqo omkhulu onemizila emine oholela ethekwini uqala, yize labo abafuna ukuchitha ubusuku ebhishi elithulile bengaphambukela eBoca Andrea noma eChachalacas, enye yezidume kakhulu ngezindunduma zayo ezinkulu.
IKHOFU ELIQINILE ...
Ngokushesha nje lapho singena edolobheni, siya ecafe yendabuko iLa Parroquia ukuze sibe nekhofi elimnandi, elinamandla kakhulu, ithala lalo elibheke ku-boardwalk ebanzi. Sisezinhliziyweni ezibaluleke kakhulu ezweni laseVeracruz, elinothe kakhulu ezweni, eligcwele izimboni zikawoyela, zendwangu nezobhiya, izigayo zikashukela, izindawo zezolimo nezemfuyo ezikhiqizayo, ezikhula kakhulu ngezikhathi zamakoloni lapho iFleet ecebile INew Spain ishiye itheku layo ibizela ethekwini laseHavana, ngemikhumbi elayishwe ngegolide, isiliva kanye nanoma yiluphi uhlobo lwemikhiqizo efiswa umqhele waseSpain.
U-Alexander de Humbolft uchaze leli dolobha kwi-Political Essay yakhe nge-Kingdom of New Spain "njengelihle futhi elakhiwe njalo." Futhi ngaleso sikhathi kwakucatshangwa ukuthi "yisango elikhulu laseMexico", lapho wonke umnotho walawa mazwe amakhulu ugelezela eYurophu, ngoba kwakuwukuphela kwechweba eGulf elalivumela ukufinyelela okulula ngaphakathi kwalo. Leyo galantry yezwe igcinwa enkabeni yayo yomlando, lapho amanothi endodana i-jarocho mix kusihlwa nalawo e-danzon yokutholwa, eziteshini ezigcwele abantu bendawo nabavakashi, ubusuku abupheli kubo. Ekuseni, sijabulela umgwaqo obabazekayo obabazekayo phambi kwehhotela eBoca del Río, futhi ngaphambi kokuqhubeka nomzila wethu oseningizimu, sivakashela i-Aquarium, ngokungangabazeki engenye yezinhle kakhulu emhlabeni, nezinhlobo eziningi zasolwandle. Kuyisiza esibalulekile kunoma yimuphi umhambi othanda imvelo.
NGASEKHAYA ALVARADO
Sithatha indlela eya eningizimu. Sibheka iLaguna Mandinga, enezindawo zokudlela ezisemfuleni ezisavaliwe futhi siyaqhubeka siye e-Antón Lizardo, egcina isimo sendawo yokudoba eyiqiniso.
Cishe ngamakhilomitha angama-80, i-Alvarado isilindele, enye yezindawo ezinhle kakhulu esifundeni, enedumela elihle le-gastronomic, ngoba lapho kungenzeka ukuthi udle noma yiluphi uhlobo lwasolwandle nezinhlobo ezahlukahlukene kakhulu zezinhlanzi ngamanani angenangqondo ngempela, ngekhwalithi emnandi .
Ngaphambi kokuba ngiyazi le ndawo, ngangazi ngayo kusukela emavesini embongi uSalvador Vives, owayichaza ngokuthi “Itheku elincane, idolobhana labadobi elinuka ukudla kwasolwandle, ugwayi nomjuluko. Indlu yepulazi elimhlophe ehamba ngasogwini ibheke ngaphesheya komfula ”. Ngempela, njengokungathi liqhwa ngesikhathi, isikhungo salo esingokomlando sigcina ukuthula okungajwayelekile kwabamatasa namuhla. Izindlu ezinkulu ezimhlophe ezinamaphaseji abanzi futhi anomthunzi zizungeze isikwele esimaphakathi, lapho kugqame khona ithempeli lesifunda kanye nesigodlo sikamasipala esihle. Kwanele ukuhamba ngezintambo ezimbalwa ukuya emngceleni wechweba, kugcwele izikebhe zokudoba, ezinye sezivele zigqwalile kanti ezinye zihlala zilungele ukuphuma ziye olwandle, ngoba ukudoba kungumthombo wabo omkhulu wemali, ngoba ezokuvakasha azikayitholi le ndawo njengoba kufanele. . I-Alvarado lagoon nomfula iPapaloapan bayahlangana ukusinikeza indawo engajwayelekile.
Vele, ngaphambi kokuqhubeka nemashi sizitholela irayisi elinamanzi eliya kutumbada, uhlobo lwenguqulo ye-Alvaradeña ye-paella yendabuko, kodwa umhluzi, olungiselelwe ngezinhlanzi zasolwandle nenhlanzi, kanye nokugcotshwa okuthile kwenkalankala. Zimbalwa izidlo ezinjengalezi, ngekhwalithi nobungako bazo.
Kutholwa amabhishi
Ukusuka lapha umgwaqo udlulela phakathi kwemibhede emikhulu yomhlanga namaloli alayishwe ngotshani obumnandi ahlala ewela ukuyocutshungulwa ezigayweni, oshimula babo abakhipha intambo engapheli yomusi onsundu, uphawu lomsebenzi ongapheli ezigangeni zabo zoshukela. Buqamama ungabona indawo enezintaba zeLos Tuxtlas, kepha njengoba sifuna ukwazi okuningi ngamabhishi aseduze, ngemuva kokudlula eLerdo de Tejada naseCabada sijikela ngakwesokunxele ngomgwaqo omncane, othi ngemuva kwehora endleleni izosiyisa eMontepío.
Kepha, ngaphambi nje kokuba sithole uphawu oluncane: "amamitha angama-50, Toro Prieto." Ilukuluku liyasinqoba futhi singene emgwaqeni owubhuqu siye olwandle lapho sithola khona kuphela ikamu lezemvelo, i-Pirate's Cave, namakhishi angambi eqolo, avulekile lapho kufika amakhasimende ngezikhathi ezithile.
Ukuqhubeka nolwandle lwaseRoca Partida, enye yalezo zindawo ezikwenza ufune ukuhlala unomphela. Lapho, abadobi bavakashela ngaphansi komhume, okuthi, ngokwalokho abakuchazayo, bawele ngokuhamba ngomkhumbi emanzini amancane.
Futhi, sibuyela emgwaqweni futhi cishe sekuhwalala sifika olwandle lwaseMontepío, lapho kunamahhotela amaningana nezindlu zezivakashi, kanye nama-palapas ambalwa ongawadla phambi kolwandle. Ukuthula kukhulu kakhulu kangangokuba umculo wezindlu ezimbalwa ezisencane eseduzane ungazwakala kumatharasi wendawo yokuhlala esikhethe ukulala kuyo, ngenkathi sijabulela ukubala izinkanyezi ezicwebezela egumbini elihlanzekile lasezulwini lapho kukhanya khona inyanga enhle kakhulu.
UKUPHELA KOKUHAMBA
Sibuze umphathi wehhotela ngamabhishi amahle kakhulu esingawathola ngaphambi kweCatemaco futhi wasikisela ngePlaya Escondida neHicacos. Ngakho-ke, ekuseni kakhulu sahamba saya edolobheni elidumile labathakathi, eceleni komgwaqo owubhuqu, simangele impela, futhi singanconyelwa ukuhamba ebusuku. Kodwa-ke, kufanele ukugxuma, ngoba ngemuva nje kokuthola indlela eya olwandle lokuqala okukhulunywe ngalo ngenhla, igama lalo aliyona ize, ngoba liyikona elihle phakathi nendawo, eligxiliswe otshanini obuluhlaza, Okuwukuphela kwento ongayifinyelela ngokuya phansi ngezitebhisi eziwumqansa nezingajwayelekile, noma ngolwandle ngesikebhe. Eqinisweni, yindawo yomlingo, lapho singathanda ukuphukelwa khona ngumkhumbi futhi singalokothi sitakulwe.
Kepha, ukuthanda kwethu kudonsa ukunaka kwethu futhi siyaqhubeka nokuya ePlaya Hicacos, enye yezindawo ezimbalwa ezicishe zibe yizintombi lapho kunendawo yezivakashi ezilula, futhi nendawo yokudlela encane ephethwe ngumndeni onobungane, okwazi ukulungisa enye yezinhlanzi ezinamanzi amahle ukuthi sinambithe indlela yonke. Kodwa-ke, ngesikhathi sibabuza ukuthi "bekusha yini", impendulo ibizwakala njengehlaya, "akuqali namuhla, kodwa kusuka izolo ntambama".
Uhambo lwaphela, yize kungenjalo ngaphambi kokulayisha uphethiloli eCatemaco, lapho sasishiywe khona sinesifiso sokuwelela esiQhingini Sezinkawu, noma ukuvakashela omunye wabathakathi baso. Kodwa, isikhathi sabeka ithoni futhi ngaleyo ndlela kwabuyiselwa ukubuyela eMexico City. Kodwa-ke, lo mzila usivumele ukuthi singene ezindaweni ezingalindelekile, emachwebeni nasemachwebeni asenamandla amakhulu okutholakala kwabahambi abaningi, othandweni lobuhle bemvelo obungenakulinganiswa baseMexico.
