Ukushintshwa kwekhulu leminyaka kuya kwelinye kubonakala kusebenza njengesaba soshintsho. Ukuqala kwenkathi entsha kusinikeza ithuba lokushiya konke ngemuva bese siqala phansi; ngaphandle kokungabaza, umzuzwana wethemba.
Incazelo yokuvela komlando ihlala siyinikezwa ngamakhulu eminyaka futhi kubonakala sengathi ihlukaniswe yibo. Umqondo wenqubekelaphambili wakhiwe ngokuqhathaniswa kwezikhathi futhi ikhulu leminyaka libukeka liyisikhathi esifanele sokutadisha uchungechunge lwezinto futhi ngaleyo ndlela sikwazi ukuqonda umqondo wokuziphatha kwethu.
Ukuqala kwekhulu leminyaka eseliqeda noma esesizophela yisikhathi lapho ushintsho luseduze futhi imfashini, njengenjwayelo, ikhombisa isimilo umphakathi osisebenzisayo. Imali eningi isetshenziselwa ukuzijabulisa nezingubo. Ukuziqhenya ngokweqile nokubusa ngokweqile kubuswa ukuxega ezindabeni zezepolitiki futhi amaqembu amakhulu ahlala isikhathi esiningi kuwo wonke amazinga ezenhlalo.
Endabeni yemfashini, iminyaka yamashumi amabili iyikhefu lokuqala elikhulu ngesiko labesifazane leziketi ezinde, izingubo ezingakhululeki kanye nezinqe eziqinile ngama-corsets angenabuntu. Isibalo sowesifazane "S" esime eminyakeni edlule asisasetshenziswa. Imayelana nokuhlambalaza, ukubakhona ezweni elibuswa amadoda. Ifomu lesifazane lithola ukubukeka kwe-cylindrical, linikeza imodeli yesici salesi sikhathi, esinqeni eside, ekuphakameni kwezinqulu ngaphandle kokumaka okhalweni.
Ikhefu alikho emfashini kuphela. Abesifazane bayazi ngesimo sabo maqondana nabesilisa futhi abasithandi, yingakho-ke beqala ukuba khona ezindaweni lapho bekungabonwa kahle khona kowesifazane ukwenza imisebenzi ebhekiswe kwabesilisa, efana nemidlalo; kwaba semfashinini ukudlala ithenisi, igalofu, ipolo, ukubhukuda, ngisho nemiklamo yamasudi ezemidlalo yayingajwayelekile futhi inesibindi ngaleso sikhathi. Izimpahla zokubhukuda kwakuyizingubo ezincane, kepha ukusuka lapho baqala ukusika indwangu ngaphandle kokuma baze bafika ezingutsheni ezincane zasolwandle ezinsukwini zethu. Eqinisweni, izingubo zangaphansi nazo ziyashintsha; ama-corsets ayinkimbinkimbi azoguquka kancane kancane abe ama-bodices bese kuvela ubra onobunjwa obuhlukile.
Owesifazane uqala ukuphuma aye emgwaqeni, enze imisebenzi lapho kudingeka khona ukuhamba ngokukhululeka; ubude beziketi nezingubo kancane kancane bufinyezwa emaqakaleni, kwathi ngo-1925 kwethulwa isiketi edolweni ku-catwalks. Intukuthelo yomphakathi wesilisa ifinyelela eqophelweni lapho uMbhishobhi Omkhulu waseNaples elinga ukusho ukuthi ukuzamazama komhlaba e-Amalfi kwakuwukubonakaliswa kwentukuthelo kaNkulunkulu ngokwamukela iziketi ezimfushane ekhabethe labesifazane. Icala laseMelika liyafana; e-Utah, kwaphakanyiswa umthetho ozohlawulisa futhi uboshwe abesifazane ngokugqoka iziketi ezingaphezu kwamasentimitha amathathu ngaphezu kweqakala; e-Ohio, ukuphakama kwesiketi okuvunyelwe kwakungaphansi, akuzange kukhuphuke ngaphezu kwe-instep. Vele, lezi zikhwama azizange zamukelwe, kepha abesilisa, lapho besongelwa, balwa nazo zonke izikhali zabo ukuvimbela ukuvukela kwabesifazane. Ngisho nama-garters amisa amasheya, asanda kutholwa ukuphakama okusha kwesiketi, abe yinto entsha; Kwakukhona ngamatshe ayigugu futhi eza abiza aze afike ku-30,000 dollars ngaleso sikhathi.
Ezizweni ezithintekile yimpi ubukhona besifazane emigwaqweni bebefana, kepha izizathu bezihlukile. Ngenkathi emazweni amaningi isidingo soshintsho sasingenxa yezinkinga zenhlalo, abanqotshiwe kwakudingeka babhekane nokubhujiswa. Kwakudingeka ukwakhiwa kabusha kusuka ezakhiweni nasemigwaqweni kuya emphefumulweni wezakhamuzi zakhona. Ukuphela kwendlela kwakuwukuphuma bayokwenza, abesifazane bakwenza futhi ukushintsha izingubo zabo kwaba yisidingo.
Isitayela le nkathi engachazwa ngaso ukuvela njenge-androgynous ngangokunokwenzeka. Kanye nokwakheka okuyindilinga lapho kwakufihlwe khona amajika esifazane - kwezinye izikhathi babebhandisha amabele abo ukuzama ukukufihla - kwakuyizinwele. Ngokokuqala ngqa ukuthi lo wesifazane ashiye ngemuva izinwele zakhe ezinde nezinwele eziyinkimbinkimbi; Bese kuba khona ubuhle obusha bezinkanuko. Ukusikwa, okubizwa nge-garçonne (intombazane, ngesiFulentshi) kanye nezingubo zesilisa ngokuphelele kuyabasiza ukuthi bakhe leyo mfanelo evusa inkanuko ngokuya nge-androgynous. Kanye nokugunda izinwele, izigqoko zenzelwe ngokwesithombe esisha. Isitayela se-cloche sithathe ukwakheka ngokulandela umugqa wekhanda; kanti ezinye zazinomphetho omncane, ngakho kwakungenakwenzeka ukuzigqoka ngezinwele ezinde. Iqiniso lokwazi ngokugqoka isigqoko ukuthi umphetho omncane wawumboze ingxenye yamehlo abo, ngakho-ke kwakudingeka bahambe bephakamise amakhanda abo phezulu; Lokhu kuphakamisa isithombe esimele kakhulu isimo sengqondo esisha sabesifazane.
EFrance, uMadeleine Vionet ucela ukugunda izinwele "ngokuchema" kwesigqoko, esiqala ukuthonya indalo yakhe, ezolingiswa abanye abaklami.
Abanye besifazane abangadlubulundeli bakhetha ukungazigundi izinwele zabo, kodwa bazitayela ngendlela ephakamisa isitayela esisha. Kwakungelula ukutshela owesifazane enganeni yesikole, ngaphandle kwe-lipstick ebomvu ehlabayo nethunzi elikhanyayo emabhodleleni akhe. Ukwakheka kwagcwala ngokwengeziwe, ngemigqa echazwe kabanzi. Imilomo yama-1920s mincane futhi imise okwenhliziyo, imiphumela etholakele ngenxa yemikhiqizo emisha. Umugqa omncane wamashiya nawo uyisici, ugcizelela, ngazo zonke izindlela, ukwenziwa lula kwamafomu, kokubumbela nasezitayeleni zemiklamo ephikisana nezinhlobo eziyinkimbinkimbi zesikhathi esedlule.
Izidingo zezikhathi ezintsha zaholela ekusungulweni kwezesekeli ezenza ubufazi busebenze ngokwengeziwe, njengamakesi kagwayi namabhokisi amakha amise okwezindandatho. "Ukuhlala unayo esandleni uma kunesidingo, manje usungagcina amakha akho owathandayo kumasongo enzelwe leyo njongo, futhi aqukethe ibhodlela elincane ngaphakathi." Le yindlela umagazini i-El Hogar (Buenos Aires, Ephreli 1926) owethula ngayo lo mkhiqizo omusha. Ezinye izesekeli ezibalulekile zifaka imigexo yamaparele amade, izikhwama ezihlanganisiwe futhi, ngaphansi kwethonya leCoco Channel, ubucwebe obuye baba semfashinini okokuqala.
Ukukhathala kwamafomu amahle kwenza imfashini ibonakale ilula futhi isebenziseka. Ukuhlanzeka kwefomu okuphikisana nesikhathi esedlule, isidingo soshintsho ngemuva kwesibhicongo sempi enkulu yokuqala, kwenze abesifazane babona ukuthi kufanele baphile esikhathini samanje, ngoba ikusasa lingaqiniseka. NgeMpi Yezwe Yesibili nokuvela kwebhomu le-athomu, lo mqondo "wokuphila usuku nosuku" uzogcizelelwa.
Ngomunye umqondo, kubalulekile ukusho ukuthi izindlu zokwakha, njenge "Doucet", "Doeuillet kanye neDrécoll, eyadala udumo lwe-belle epoque, ngokungakwazi ukuphendula izidingo ezintsha zomphakathi, noma mhlawumbe ngo bephikisana noshintsho, bavale iminyango yabo banikeza abasiki bengqephu abasha abanjengoMadame Schiaparelli, Coco Channel, Madame Paquin, Madeleine Vione, nabanye. Abaqambi babesondelene kakhulu nenguquko yengqondo; ama-avant-gardes obuciko ekuqaleni kwekhulu leminyaka abonisa ukuguquguquka okuhlukile, imisinga yaphikisana nesikole, yingakho ayephefumula kakhulu.
Ubuciko bugqagqene nempilo yansuku zonke ngoba buyisebenzisele ukudala. Abaqambi abasha babexhumene kakhulu nalezi zitayela. USchiaparelli, isibonelo, wayeyingxenye yeqembu lamaSurrealists futhi wayephila njengabo. Ababhali bezemfashini bathi njengoba wayemubi kakhulu, wayedla imbewu yezimbali ukuze kuzalwe ubuhle kuye, okuyisimo esasivame kakhulu ngesikhathi sakhe. Wayesolwa kaninginingi "ngokuyisa ama-Apache eRitz" ngokufaka imiklamo yabasebenzi ezingutsheni ezisezingeni eliphezulu. Omunye umuntu odumile, uCoco Channel, wathuthela esiyingini sobuhlakani, futhi waba nabangane abakhulu uDalí, uCocteau, uPicasso noStravinsky. Izinkinga zobuhlakani ezazigcwele ebhodini nakwimfashini zazingenjalo.
Ukusatshalaliswa kwemfashini kwenziwa ngabezindaba ababili ababalulekile, iposi kanye nesinema. Izinhlobo ezintsha zanyatheliswa kwizincwadi zathunyelwa emadolobhaneni akude kakhulu. Izixuku ezikhathazekile zazilindele umagazini owawulethwa yidolobha elikhulu, njengokungathi ngomlingo. Bangaba bobabili ngemfashini futhi bayithole. Okunye, okukhangayo kakhulu kwakuyibhayisikobho, lapho ubuntu obukhulu kwakuyizibonelo, okwakuyicebo elihle kakhulu lokukhangisa, ngoba umphakathi wahlangana nabalingisi ngakho-ke wazama ukubalingisa. Kwakunjalo ngoGreta Garbo odumile owabeka inkathi yonke ebhayisikobho.
Abesifazane baseMexico ekuqaleni kweminyaka eyishumi yesibili yekhulu lama-20 bahlukaniswa ngokunamathela kwabo emasikweni kanye nemithetho ebekwe ngabadala babo; Kodwa-ke, abakwazanga ukuhlala ngaphandle kwezinguquko zenhlalo nezamasiko ezalethwa yinhlangano yezinguquko. Impilo yasemakhaya yaguqulwa yaba yimpilo yasemadolobheni kanti amakhomanisi okuqala avele ezingeni likazwelonke. Abesifazane, ikakhulukazi abanolwazi kakhulu nabacebile, bawela ekuheheni imfashini entsha, okwakuthiwa ifana nenkululeko. UFrida Kahlo, uTina Modotti no-Antonieta Rivas Mercado bahamba phambili ohlwini lwabesifazane abaningi abasha, emisebenzini yabo eyahlukahlukene, balwa nemizabalazo engapheli yokulwa nokujwayelekile. Uma kukhulunywa ngezemfashini, uKahlo unanela izazi zesakhiwo, ezimisele ukutakula iMexico uqobo; Ukulandela ukuthandwa kwalo mculi, abesifazane abaningi baqala ukugqoka imvunulo yesiko, ukukama izinwele zabo ngamagoda anemibala nangemichilo, nokuthola ubucwebe besiliva ngemidwebo yaseMexico.
Ngokuqondene no-Antonieta Rivas Mercado, owayesesigabeni sabantu abacebile nabenza amazwe amaningi, kusukela esemncane kakhulu wakhombisa umoya wokuhlubuka ophambene nobandlululo. Lapho eneminyaka engu-10, ngo-1910, wayegunda izinwele ngesitayela seJoan of Arc kwathi eneminyaka engama-20 “wamukela imfashini yeChanel njengomuntu ozijwayeza inkambiso ehambisana nokukholelwa ngaphakathi. Wayifaka kahle le ndlela yobukhazikhazi enesizotha, yenduduzo efundwayo nenganakwa, abekade eyifuna njalo. Yena, owayengeyena owesifazane onamafomu agqamile, wayegqoka kahle lezo zingubo eziqondile ezazikhohlwa amabele nezinqe, futhi wakhulula umzimba ngezindwangu zejezi ezaziwela ngaphandle kwehlazo ku-silhouette ehlanzekile.
UMnyama naye waba umbala awuthandayo. Futhi ngaleso sikhathi, izinwele zakhe zazifakwa kwi-garçonne, okungcono ukuthi ibe mnyama futhi yancishiselwa iValentino ”(Ithathwe ku-Antonieta, nguFabienne Bradu)
Imfashini yama-1920s, yize yabonakala ingaphezu kwamandla, iwuphawu lokuhlubuka. Ukuba semfashinini kwakuthathwa njengokubalulekile, njengoba kwakuyisimo sabesifazane emphakathini. Ikhulu lama-20 lalibonakala ngokuguquguquka okunamandla futhi ngawo-1920 kwaba ukuqala koshintsho.
Umthombo: IMexico ngesikhathi esingu-35 Mashi / Ephreli 2000
