EChicontepec nase-Álamo Temapache, abantu baseHuasteca yaseVeracruz, amasiko amadala kakhulu ayagcinwa futhi kugcinwa i-idiosyncrasy ekhethekile eyimfihlakalo.
Izingubo zesifazane zilahlekelwe izimpande, kepha zigcina izinto ezibalulekile zobunikazi bazo.
Imvunulo yabesifazane eMesoamerica yayihlukile emhlabeni, ifana nobukhazikhazi bayo namaGrikhi, amaRoma noma amaGibhithe, yize kungenzeka ukuthi yayimibalabala, ngoba umongo wamasiko amakhulu wangaphambi kweColombia wawunothile kakhulu kwi-polychromy futhi wawunenqwaba yama-nuances, athonya izingubo zabakhileyo kulo. Abanqobi baseSpain baba ngofakazi bokuqala bakwamanye amazwe kulo mbala omibalabala, obonakala ekuzilungiseni komuntu kwabesilisa nabesifazane baseMesoamerican. Kuwo wonke umbuso wama-Aztec, abesifazane ngokuziqhenya babegqoka ama-huipiles amahle anentamo eyisikwele nokufekethiswa, ukusika okuqondile, okude nokuxegayo, ngamabhantshi noma iziketi ezazigoqwe emzimbeni futhi zalungiswa ngebhande elifekethisiwe. Ngokwabo, abesifazane besifunda saseTotonacapan babegqoka i-quechquémel, ingubo emise okwedayimane enembobo ekhanda futhi emboze isifuba, emuva nengxenye ye-chincuete yomdabu noma isiketi. Lezi zingubo zisetshenziswe ngoshintsho oluthile kuzo zonke izifunda zaseMexico yangaphambi kweColumbian, futhi zenziwa ngemuva kwendwangu enezindwangu ezinhle zikakotini; lezo ezazisetshenziswa emikhosini zazigqama ngemibala yazo nokufekethiswa, futhi zazidayisa izindwangu ngodayi bemvelo abatholakala ezinambuzaneni, ezitshalweni nasemagobolondweni.
Ukusuka emngceleni osenyakatho kuye emngceleni oseningizimu wezwe lethu, abesifazane bomdabu bathande imibala egqamile ezingutsheni nakwizesekeli zabo zokuzilungisa. Imigexo, amacici, amasongo, ukufakwa kwamazinyo, amaribhoni kanye neziqu ezihlobisa ngazo izitayela zazo zezinwele ezinhle, kukhombisa ingcebo enkulu yezingubo zabo, eyaqala ezikhathini zasendulo kakhulu phakathi kwamaNahuas, amaTotonac, amaMeya, amaHuastec, ukubala nje abambalwa. wezinhlanga ezihlala kula mazwe.
Njengoba nje owesifazane waseTarahumara, uMayan noma uNahua waseCuetzalan abonwa ngendlela yakhe yokugqoka, kungenzeka ukukhomba owesifazane waseNahua odabuka eChicontepec; Yize izingubo zabo zibonisa ithonya elikhulu laseSpain, isici sabo esiyinhloko umkhondo we-syncretism, isiko elibonisa indlela yokugqoka yaseYurophu, ehlanganiswe nemibala emikhulu efekethisiwe yabo, ukusetshenziswa kwemigexo eminingi neziphandla, amacici enziwe ngegolide nangesiliva, amaribhoni kanye neziqu ezinemibala ehlukahlukene ezigcina amasiko, izingubo nolimi lwendabuko.
Cishe bonke abesifazane abaneminyaka engaphezu kwengama-50 ngobuhle bagqoka ingubo ebabonayo futhi ebenza baziqhenye, kepha engahlala iminyaka engaphezu kwengu-40. Izinguquko sezivele zivele eminyakeni engama-25 kuya kwengu-30 edlule; Encwadini ethi The indigenous costume in Mexico, ebhalwe nguTeresa Castelló noCarlota Mapelli, ekhishwe yiNational Institute of Anthropology and History (1965), kukhulunywa ngokusetshenziswa kwemvunulo engasabonwa edolobheni laseChicontepec.
I-blouse yase-Europe esikiwe ebizwa nge-ikoto yenziwa ngengubo, ukotini noma i-poplin, inemikhono emifushane kanye nomugqa omncane oyisikwele, onentambo ephothiwe ngombala oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka noma obomvu nxazonke, wenziwe ngezinhlobo ezimbili: lowo onemigqa emibili (owodwa ngaphambili , ekuphakameni kwe-bust, nenye ngemuva, zombili ezinesiqu esiphambanweni esibizwa ngokuthi i-itenkoayo tlapoali, zinemidwebo emincane yejometri noma yezimbali enemibala egqamile kakhulu, iminwe emithathu ububanzi engxenyeni engenhla efana nenaliti ebizwa ngokuthi i-kechtlamitl; Lesi siqeshana sinamathiselwe engxenyeni engezansi kusuka ngaphambili ngokusebenzisa amafolda amancane noma i-xolochtik, eqedwe ngesimo se-wavy nesibanzi; elinye ihembe libonakala ngokuba nendwangu eyisikwele engxenyeni engenhla, ehlotshiswe ngemifekethiso enesiqu esiphambanweni ebizwa nge-ixketla tlapoali, zombili imikhono, ngaphambili nangemuva, emele izibalo zezilwane, izimbali noma izinqa imibala eminingi futhi ejoyina ingxenye engezansi ngendlela efanayo neyangaphambilini; zombili izinhlobo zeblawuzi zigxunyekwe phambi kwesiketi kanti ngemuva kukhululekile.
Ngokwamandla wokunambitha nokuthenga kowesifazane ngamunye, isiketi sifinyelela eqakaleni futhi sinebhande okhalweni elinemicu evumela ukuthi linamathele okhalweni; engxenyeni ephakathi inemihlobiso yelace namaribhoni ayi-5 cm anemibala ehlukahlukene ebizwa ngokuthi ikuetlatso; Ama-4 noma ama-5 ama-tucks noma i-tlapopostektli abekwa onqenqemeni, ngomucu wendwangu efanayo kodwa ngamafolda abizwa nge-itenola, aphula ukuqhubeka kwawo; I-apron okhalweni noma iixpantsaja igqokwa ngaphezulu kwesiketi, esifinyelela ngezansi kwedolo futhi senziwe ngendwangu ye-polyester yohlobo lweScotland, eyaziswa kakhulu ngabesifazane.
Iningi labantu abagqoka ngale ndlela, baluka iziqongo zabo nge-hook noma nge-embroidery yenaliti futhi bathunge iziketi zabo noma bathungwe ngomshini. I-backstrap loom yasendulo isikhohliwe, futhi ngaphandle kwezikhathi ezingavamile isetshenziswa ngabesifazane abangaphezu kweminyaka engama-70 ubudala, abenza ama-napkin okotini, abongwa kakhulu njengesipho emikhosini yendabuko yomshado. Izindwangu ezisekhona zihlala zixhunywe kolunye uhlangothi lomnyango wendlu kanti kolunye okhalweni lomuntu okusebenzayo, nge-kuitlapamitl, njenge-mecapal. Abeluki ngokwabo kwesinye isikhathi balima ehlathini bese benza inqubo yokwenza intambo kakotini, bazenzele eyabo lokuphotha noma i-malacatl, elenziwe ngezingxenye ezimbili: induku engaba amasentimitha angama-30 nocezu lobumba oluhehayo olufakwe kulo. nengxenye eyindilinga iye phansi, njenge-counterweight. Uthi lokuphotha oluphelele lufakwa esitsheni esincane noma ku-chaualkaxitl. I-loom yakhiwa izingcezu ezakhiwe ngokhuni, ezinemisebenzi ehlukene.
Ngosuku olujwayelekile eChicontepec, imisebenzi yansuku zonke yabesifazane iqala ngokubonakala kokukhanya kwelanga kokuqala, lapho kuzwakala imisindo yokugaya ummbila ku-metate. Abanye besifazane baphatha amanzi emithonjeni futhi bathatha ithuba lokugeza nokuwasha izingubo, kanti abanye benza lo msebenzi ofanayo endaweni yemithombo. Babuyela ezindlwaneni zabo behamba bengafake zicathulo, njengoba besisetshenziswa kusukela ezikhathini zangaphambi kweSpanishi, bephethe nomfana omncane ogcwele izingubo noma ibhakede elinamanzi emakhanda abo, abaligcina lilinganiselwe kahle naphezu kokwehla komthambeka, ngaphandle abanye badedele ukuchitheka.
Kulesi sifunda kugujwa imikhosi eminingi yasendulo, okukhona kuyo: i-tlamana noma umnikelo wethenda wokudla, nalokho okubizwa nge-tlakakauase, okwenziwa lapho abantu abasha ababili sebenqume ukushada. Ngemuva kwalokho umkhwenyana uletha izipho eziningi kubazali bentombazane. Phakathi nalokhu kuvakashelwa, owesifazane ugqoka izingubo zakhe ezinhle futhi aluke izinwele zakhe ngamaribhoni amancane wentambo enemibala ehlukahlukene, aphuma cishe ngamasentimitha ayisishiyagalombili ukusuka esihlokweni sezinwele; intamo imbozwe imigexo eminingi eyenziwe ngobuhlalu beglasi obungenalutho, noma ngezinye izinto ezinemibala egqamile, izindondo, izinhlamvu zemali; Ugqoka amacici egolide noma esiliva asesimweni senyanga yenyanga, aqoshwe edolobheni lase "Cerro". Konke lokhu kuhlobisa kukhumbuza ubukhulu bezikhathi zasendulo, obusekhona emphefumulweni wabomdabu baseMexico, obulokhu uthokozele imibala ekhazimulayo, imihlobiso, amagugu nokubukisa kwezingubo zawo.
UMA UYA KUCHICONTEPEC
Thatha umgwaqo cha. 130, edlula eTulancingo, eHuauchinango, eXicotepec de Juárez nasePozza Rica. Edolobheni laseTihuatlán, thatha umgwaqo odlula esihlalweni sikamasipala obizwa nge-Álamo Temapache, futhi cishe amakhilomitha amathathu uzothola ukuphambuka okuya e-Ixhuatlán de Madero naseChicontepec, lapho ufika khona ngemuva kokudlula amadolobha aseLomas de Vinazco, eLlano de Phakathi nendawo, uColatlán noBenito Juárez. Cishe zingamakhilomitha angama-380 ubude futhi yonke imisebenzi iyatholakala.
Umthombo: I-Mexico engaziwa No. 300 / Februwari 2002
