Iziqhingi zoLwandle lwaseCortez (iBaja California Sur)

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Abantu baseYurophu ababehamba ngomkhumbi okokuqala emanzini oLwandle iBermejo bababazeka indawo ababhekana nayo endleleni yabo; kuyaqondakala ukuthi babecabanga njengesiqhingi lokho okwakuyinhlonhlo empeleni.

Babeshayela imikhumbi yabo futhi babheka iziqhingana ezincane ezazingelutho ngaphandle kwemifantu yezintaba neziqongqwane ezavela ezigidini zeminyaka edlule kuleligodi zaze zeqa ulwandle futhi zathola ukukhanya kwelanga. Akunzima ukucabanga, ngalezo zinsuku, ukweqa kwamahlengethwa abungaza ukufika kwabahlaseli kanye nemindeni yemikhomo emangele ebuka izivakashi.

Abantu baseYurophu ababehamba ngomkhumbi okokuqala emanzini oLwandle iBermejo bababazeka indawo ababhekana nayo endleleni yabo; kuyaqondakala ukuthi babecabanga njengesiqhingi lokho okwakuyinhlonhlo empeleni. Babeshayela imikhumbi yabo futhi babheka iziqhingana ezincane ezazingelutho ngaphandle kwemikhawulo yezintaba neziqu ezaziqhamuke ezigidini zeminyaka edlule kuleligodi zaze zeqa ulwandle futhi zathola ukukhanya kwelanga. Akunzima ukucabanga, ngalezo zinsuku, ukweqa kwamahlengethwa abungaza ukufika kwabahlaseli kanye nemindeni yemikhomo emangele ebuka izivakashi.

Lezi ziqhingi, ezigcwele izakhamuzi zasemoyeni, zasolwandle nezasemhlabeni zavela, phambi kwamehlo abahambeli, zibabazekayo futhi zodwa ogwini oluseningizimu yenhlonhlo ethweswe umqhele yiSierra de La Giganta.

Mhlawumbe kwakuyithuba noma ukujika kwesondo okuchezukile okwakuqondisa amadoda anomusa ayefuna enye indlela eya emlonyeni wegebe; Ngokuhamba kwesikhathi uhambo lwaluqhubeka, lolu hambo lwalandelwa ngokulandelana, leli zwekazi elisha lavela emabalazweni futhi kubo "isiqhingi" saseCalifornia sihamba nodadewabo abancane.

Ngo-1539, umkhankaso owasekelwa nguHernán Cortés nangaphansi komyalo kaFrancisco de Ulloa wafika ufike wahlomeka ngokuphelele emlonyeni woMfula iColorado. Lokhu kwaholela, eminyakeni eyikhulu kamuva, ekushintsheni kokudwetshwa kwamabalazwe emhlabeni ngaleso sikhathi: kwakuyinhlonhlo ngempela hhayi ngaleso sikhathi: kwakuyinhlonhlo ngempela hhayi ingxenye yesiqhingi, njengoba babecabanga ngaphambili.

Amabhange wamapharele atholakele eduzane nechweba laseSanta Cruz, namuhla iLa Paz, futhi mhlawumbe nehaba - okujwayele ukujwayeleka ezinhlotsheni eziningi zemibhalo eyabhalwa ngesikhathi sokunqoba kwaveza isifiso sabahloli abasha.

Ukoloni lweSonora neSinaloa maphakathi nekhulu leshumi nesikhombisa leminyaka kanye nokusungulwa kwemishini yaseLoreto e1697 eningizimu yenhlonhlo kukhomba ukuqala kwamakhulu amakhulu eminyaka.

Akukhona nje kuphela ukuthi imvelo yemvelo yahlaselwa ukuhlaselwa kwabahlali abasha, nabakwaPericúes nabaseCochimíes, izakhamizi ezizidlayo, babulawa yizifo; kuwo, amaYaquis noSeris ancishiswa afinyelela ezingeni eliphezulu kakhulu lezo zindawo abathutheleka kuzo ngokukhululeka.

Kepha engxenyeni yesibili yekhulu le-19 nasengxenyeni yokuqala yekhulu lama-20, ubuchwepheshe bandisa amandla omuntu: kuthuthukiswa ukudoba, ezolimo ezinkulu kanye nezimayini. Ukugeleza kwemifula efana neColorado, iYaqui, iMayo neFuerte, phakathi kokunye, kuyeka ukondla amanzi e-gulf kwase kuthi izilwane nezitshalo, ezazibandakanyeka ochungechungeni lokudla oluyinkimbinkimbi ngezikhathi ezithile ezingabonakali, zamelana nemiphumela.

Kwenzekani eziqhingini eziseLwandle oluseningizimu yeCortez? Nabo bathintekile. I-guano ebelifakwe yizinyoni eminyakeni eyizinkulungwane zeminyaka yayiswa kwamanye amazwe ukuze isebenze njengomanyolo; izimayini zegolide nezindawo zokuhlala usawoti kwaxhashazwa, okwathi ngokuhamba kwesikhathi kwabonakala kungenanzuzo; izinhlobo eziningi zasolwandle ezifana nevaquita zaya phakathi kwamanethi okudoba; iziqhingi zashiywa ngomunye umonakalo ongenakulungiswa futhi nomakhelwane abambalwa olwandle.

Ngenkathi abalindi bembulwa endaweni enhle, iziqhingi zabona iminyaka eminingi ukudlula komkhumbi, okwathi phakathi nekhulu leminyaka elidlule bathatha uhambo besuka eSan Francisco, eCalifornia, bangena e-United States ngemuva kokuwela amanzi oMfula iColorado; bahlala bengaguquki phambi kwezikebhe zokudoba kanye namanetha abo okudoba; babengofakazi usuku nosuku ngokunyamalala kwezinhlobo eziningi.

Kepha babesekhona futhi benabaqashi babo abadala nabanenkani ababengahambisani nokuhamba kwesikhathi kuphela kepha nezinguquko zezulu zomhlaba futhi, ngaphezu kwakho konke, isenzo esedlulele salabo ababengaba abangane babo njalo: amadoda.

Yini esiyitholayo lapho sithatha uhambo lwasolwandle sisuka ePuerto Escondido, kumasipala waseLoreto, siya ethekwini laseLa Paz, cishe ekugcineni kwenhlonhlo? Okuvela phambi kwethu kuyi-panorama engavamile, okuhlangenwe nakho okuphoqelela ngempela. Ebuhleni bemvelo bolwandle olwasikwa ngamaphrofayili asogwini kanye nezimo ezingenasisekelo zeziqhingi kunezelwa ukuvakashelwa kwamahlengethwa, imikhomo, izinyoni zesakhiwo esintekenteke nendiza ebucayi, kanye nama-pelican lapho efuna ukudla. Umsindo okhishwa ngamabhubesi asolwandle uyahamba, njengoba begonene bebenyezelana elangeni futhi begezwa ngamanzi aqhephuka emadwaleni.

Ababheka kakhulu bazokwazisa ukwakheka kweziqhingi ebalazweni kanye nemiphetho yazo emhlabeni; amabhishi namachweba asobala, alingana kuphela nalawo aseCaribbean; ukwakheka kwamadwala okuveza iminyaka yomhlaba wethu.

Ochwepheshe bezitshalo nezilwane ezikhona bazobona i-cactus lapho, isilwane esihuquzelayo, i-mamilaria, unogwaja omnyama, ngamafuphi: ama-biznagas, izinkonjane, ama-iguana, izibankwa, izinyoka, ama-rattlesnakes, amagundane, izindwandwe, oklebe, ama-pelicans nokuningi.

Abatshuzi bazothokozela izindawo ezinhle kakhulu zangaphansi kwamanzi nezinhlobo ezihlukile, kusuka ku-giant squid kuya kuma-fractal emvelo e-starfish; abadobi bezemidlalo bazothola i-seilfish ne-marlin; nabathwebuli zithombe, ikhono lokuthwebula izithombe ezinhle kakhulu. Isikhala silungele labo abake bafuna ukuba bodwa kakhulu noma kulabo abafuna ukuhlanganyela nabathandekayo babo ulwazi lokwazi ulwandle olwandle, naphezu kokucekela phansi, kubonakala sengathi akekho owake waluthinta.

Iziqhingi iCoronado, i-El Carmen, iDanzante, iMonserrat, iSanta Catalina, iSanta Cruz, iSan José, iSan Francisco, iPartida, i-Espíritu Santo neCerralvo ziyisixuku somhlaba okufanele sigcinelwe ubuhle bemvelo nelungelo lokubona.

Ngayinye yazo inezinto ezihehayo ezikhethekile: akekho ozokwazi ukukhohlwa ibhishi elisesiqhingini saseMonserrat; ubukhona obukhulu beDanzante; itheku elikhulu eSan Francisco; amachweba kanye nemihlume eSan José; isibuko selanga phezu kwesiqhingi sase-El Carmen, isikhungo sokuzalela izimvu ezinkulu; isithombe esingaqondakali seLos Candeleros nombukwane omangazayo eziqhingini zasePartida noma e-Espíritu Santo, noma ngabe igagasi liphezulu noma liphansi, kanye nokushona kwelanga okuhle kakhulu okungabonakala oLwandle lwaseCortez.

Konke okungashiwo futhi kwenziwe ukugcina le ngxenye yensimu yethu kuncane. Kumele siqiniseke ukuthi ikusasa leziqhingi oLwandle oluseningizimu yeCortez luzoncika ekuthatheni le ndawo njengendawo enkulu yokubuka imvelo noma yisiphi isivakashi esingayibheka inqobo nje uma ingathinti indawo ezungezile.

UFARALLÓN WE-ISLA PARTIDA: ULWANDLE OLUKHANYA

Iwa lesiQhingi sasePartida liyisiphephelo sezilwane zasendle esihlukile: linenqwaba yezinyoni zasemanzini.

Emigodini yamawa izidleke zezinyoni ze-booby, futhi zibonakala zifukamela ngomona amaqanda azo, abesilisa nabesifazane benikana ngokufuna ukudla. Kuhle ukubabheka benganyakazi, benemilenze eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, izimpaphe zabo ezinsundu njengesaka nekhanda labo elimhlophe elinenkulumo ethi "Angiyanga". Izinhlanzi zasolwandle ziyanda futhi zivame ukuma emaphethelweni kwalasha, zibheke olwandle zifuna inqwaba yezinhlanzi; Enye yezindawo azithandayo yisiqongo se-cacti okuthi, kusuka endle kangaka, kubonakale kuneqhwa. Izinyoni ze-frigate zindiza phezulu, ne-silhouette yazo ejwayelekile yamaphiko amade akhombe, afana namalulwane. AmaPelican akhetha amadwala asogwini lolwandle futhi asuke ediphini aye ediphini efuna ukudla. Kukhona futhi ama-cormorants ngisho nezimpisi ezimbalwa, mhlawumbe ama-stowaways esikebheni sabavakashi.

Okuheha kakhulu eweni amakoloni wezingonyama zasolwandle.

Ekwindla, ososayensi bezinto eziphilayo abavela e-University of Baja California Sur benza ukubalwa kwabantu ukurekhoda ukukhula kwabantu.

Izimpisi eziningi ziza lapha ukuzokhwelana zodwa futhi zibe namazinyane azo; Leli koloni lisungulwa ngokuyinhloko emigodini yezimpisi, yize izinhlobo ezincane kunazo zonke zihlala kunoma yiliphi idwala elingakhuphuka, phansi kwamawa. Babangela ihlazo elikhulu ngokuqomisana kwabo nangamacala enkantolo; i-ruckus ihlala usuku lonke.

Ngenkathi yokukhwelana, abesilisa bahlukanisa izindawo zabo, abazivikela ngentshiseko enkulu; lapho zigcina izidleke zabesifazane abahlukahlukene.

Izwe kuphela eliphikisanayo, ngoba ulwandle lubhekwa njengempahla yomphakathi. Ukulwa phakathi kwabesilisa abaqavile kuyenzeka kaningi, futhi akukho ukuswela kwesifazane, okukhohliswe elinye iqhawe, libaleka endaweni yabafazi. Eziduna ezinamandla zihlaba umxhwele, ikakhulukazi uma zithukuthele futhi zibhonga kakhulu ukusabisa noma ngubani onesibindi sokungena esizindeni sazo. Naphezu kokubukeka kwabo okubabazekayo nobuvila, bangahamba ngejubane elingaphezu kwamakhilomitha ayi-15 ngehora ekuhlaseleni kwabo ukwethusa isitha.

Ngaphansi kolwandle kukhona umhlaba ohlukile, kepha futhi kuyathakazelisa.

Izikole ezinkulu zezinhlanzi zibhukuda zingashoni; imizimba yabo emincane emise okokuphotha icwebezela isiliva. Kukhona nezinhlanzi ezinemibala eminingi kanye nama-moray eel asolisayo, anesici esibi. Kwesinye isikhathi ubona ama-stingray athi "endiza" buthule aze alahleke ekujuleni kolwandle, asishiye nomuzwa wokuphila iphupho elingajwayelekile ngokuhamba kancane.

Umthombo: Engaziwa iMexico No. 251 / Januwari 1998

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