Maphakathi no-2000, kwavulwa umgwaqo omkhulu oseningizimu-mpumalanga yeChiapas, eduze futhi eduze kakhulu nomngcele waseMexico-Guatemala. Iqala ePalenque iphele emachibini aseMontebello; zingama-422 km, iningi lazo linqamula eLacandon Jungle.
Ngemuva kwamakhilomitha angama-50 okuqala, umgwaqo ugudla uMfula i-Usumacinta, uze ufike kulelo kona elikude leRiphabhulikhi yaseMexico okuyindawo yaseMarqués de Comillas. Ihamba ngamakhilomitha angama-250 ibheke eningizimu-mpumalanga futhi ifinyelela esiqongweni sayo edolobheni laseFlor de Cacao, lapho ijikela khona entshonalanga futhi inyukele eMontebello; umgwaqo omusha uzungeze iMontes Azules Biosphere Reserve.
Amakhilomitha okuqala angama-50 ohambo ayajika futhi ama-50 okugcina angaphezulu kakhulu. Ingxenye ephakathi nendawo yakhiwe kakhulu yimigqa engapheli. Ngenxa yezindawo zokuhlola eziningi, ezivela kuNobhala Wezasolwandle ekuqaleni (endaweni eseduze noMfula i-Usumacinta) naseMbuthweni Wezempi waseMexico kamuva, umzila uphephe kakhulu. Mayelana nophethiloli, kukhona amagalaji kaphethiloli nezitolo zasemakhaya emadolobheni ehlukene. Kepha asihambe ngezingxenye.
UPalenque, iminyaka eminingi, ube nokuxhumana okuhle komhlaba. I-8 km ukusuka lapho, eceleni komgwaqo oya e-Agua Azul nase-Ocosingo, umzila womngcele uqala ngakwesobunxele. Ku-km 122 uzothola iSan Javier ranchería, lapho ujikela kwesokudla bese u-4 km uthola i- “Y”: ngakwesokudla, ngamakhilomitha ama-5 kunedolobha elikhulu laseLacandón, iLacanjá, nakwesobunxele indawo yemivubukulo kusuka eBonampak, amakhilomitha ayi-10 ukusuka emigwaqweni eyamukelekayo yobhuqu. Izindonga zalo zigcinwe kahle ngoba umsebenzi wokubuyisela kuzo namanxiwa kusigaba sokuqala. Kepha ake sibuyele emuva eLacanjá.
Imindeni eyi-127 yamaLacandon ihlala kuleyo ndawo encane. Ingcweti eyingcweti uBor García Paniagua ukujabulele kakhulu ukwamukela abantu ongabazi futhi ubathengisele izingcezu zakhe zobuciko obudumile: ama-jaguar aqoshwe ngokhuni, onodoli abenziwe ngezingubo zemicu yemifino ebizwa ngokuthi i-majahua nemigexo eyahlukahlukene eyenziwe ngembewu eshisayo evela kule ndawo, phakathi kwabanye. .
Ngendlela, abantu abadala baseLacandon bazinika igama abalithandayo kakhulu, kungakhathalekile ukuthi yini abazali babo ababanikeze yona, ngakho-ke kukhona amagama amaningi omongameli baseMexico nalo mculi onezibongo zombusi waseChiapas. ELacanjá saqasha umqondisi osemusha ogama lakhe linguKin (Sol) Chancayún (inyosi encane), owasiyisa eLas Casada, indawo eyipharadesi ngamakhilomitha amane ngezinyawo endleleni enqamula ehlathini elivaliwe, cishe kumnyama ngenxa "Phansi" kotshani obulenga phezu kwamakhanda ethu; sawela imifudlana eyishumi nanye ngamabhuloho erustic. Impophoma inezimpophoma ezi-3, enkulu kunazo zonke engamamitha ayi-15 ukuphakama futhi yakhiwa nguMfula iCedro; sinikezwe amachibi amahle okubhukuda. Ngenxa yesimo se-hydrological uqobo kanye nomzila omuhle wehlathi phakathi kwama-liana ne-arboreal colossi (cishe ihora elilodwa nelinye ihora emuva), kufanelekile ukuvakashelwa!
Masiqhubeke ngomgwaqo onguthelawayeka. Ngaku-km 120 sizothola Isiqiwu Semvelo seSierra de la Cojolita. Masiqhubeke kuze kube ngu-km 137 bese sithatha igatsha le-17 km ngakwesokunxele elisiyisa edolobheni laseFrontera Corozal, osebeni loMfula i-Usumacinta, phambi kweGuatemala; kunehhotela elihle kakhulu le-ecotourism ejidal ehhotela i-Escudo Jaguar, elinama-bungalow amancane agcina ukuhlakanipha kokwakhiwa komdabu. Khona lapho saqasha isikebhe eside, esincanyana esinenjini ukuhamba ngomkhumbi imizuzu engu-45 siye emfuleni iYaxchilán, idolobha elilahlekile lamaMayan, lapho safika khona ngokushesha nje lapho kusa phakathi kwenkungu eyayintanta phezu komfula.
Bekufanele sizwe ukugquma okusabisayo nokujulile, okusenze sazizwa siphakathi kokuhlaselwa kwamakati asendle; Kwavela ukuthi kwakungumhlambi wama-saraguato, abhonga kakhulu futhi adlule eziqongweni eziphakeme kakhulu zemithi. Siphinde sabona iqembu lezinambuzane ezidlalayo ezidlalayo, umhlambi wama-macaws anemibala ehlukahlukene, ama-toucan ambalwa, nezinye izinyoni nezinambuzane ezingenakubalwa. Ngendlela, eSimojovel sazama i-tzatz, izibungu zezihlahla zenjoloba ezithosiwe nezinongwe ngosawoti, ulamula kanye nopelepele owomisiwe nophansi.
Ukubuyela kuFrontera Corozal kuthathe ihora ukuhamba ngomkhumbi ngomkhumbi. Kusuka kuleli dolobha elifanayo kungenzeka ukuqasha isikebhe ukuba sifike engxenyeni yehora siye eBethel, idolobha elisogwini ohlangothini lwaseGuatemala.
Siqhubeka nomgwaqo futhi ku-km 177 siwela uMfula iLacantún; Ku-km 185 idolobha iBenemérito de las Américas bese kuba khona eminye imifula: iChajul ese-km 299 ne-Ixcán ebheke ku-315.
Kulezi zinsuku ungahamba imizuzu engama-30 ukufika e-Ixcán Station, isikhungo se-ecotourism esinendawo yokuhlala, ukudla, izindawo zokukhempa, ukuvakasha emigwaqeni eyahlukahlukene ehlathini, izimbali nezindawo zokubuka izilwane, uhambo lwasebusuku ngasemfuleni iJatate, ukwehla ngo- ama-rapids, i-temazcal, i-orchid nokunye okuningi.
Lapho uwela umgwaqo omkhulu kunemifula eminingi: iSanto Domingo e-km 358, iDolores e-366 futhi ngemuva nje kwedolobha laseNuevo Huixtán, lapho bekhulisa khona i-annatto. Ku-km 372 unqamula umfula iPacayal. Phambili yiNuevo San Juan Chamula, umasipala waseLas Margaritas, lapho kutshalwa khona uphayinaphu amnandi afana namaHawaii.
Lapha umgwaqo usuvele waba ngumqansa ongagunci, onamajika, onemibono emangalisayo maqondana nezihosha, uhlaza lwalo oluvundile oluguquka lusuka ehlathini luye esifundeni somhlaba. Izimbali ezingaphandle ezibizwa ngokuthi "izinyoni zepharadesi" ziningi, zikhula zasendle lapha. Ama-bromeliads nama-orchid maningi.
Umfula wokugcina obalulekile yiSanta Elena engamakhilomitha angama-380. Kamuva, njengoba sisondela ku-422, amachibi ahlukahlukene aqala ukubonakala kwesokudla nakwesobunxele ngemibala eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka: safika eMontebello!
