ITotolapa, iSan Lucas nentwasahlobo yasePinola yizindawo ezintathu eziyizibonelo zokunotha kwale ndawo eshisayo
Uhambo olusheshayo lwamakhilomitha angama-70 ngomgwaqo ogandayiwe lusiyisa kumasipala wakudala wase-El Zapotal, namuhla owaziwa ngokuthi iSan Lucas, osendaweni engamamitha angama-700 ngaphezu kogu lolwandle, phakathi kwezigodi zaseGrijalva nezintaba zezinkangala zaseChiapas.
Ngesimo sezulu esihle futhi esihle, idolobha laseSan Lucas, kusukela ezikhathini zangaphambi kweSpanishi, lalingelinye lamagadi ezithelo amakhulu esifundeni, ukulinywa kwalo okwaphikiswa kuze kube sekufeni ngabakwaMdabu baseChiapas naseZinacantecos. Ingxenye yale nsimu isekhona futhi ukukhiqizwa kwayo kuze kube manje kungumthombo omningi wokuthola imali edolobheni, futhi okubhabhadiswe njenge-El Zapotal ngenxa yemithi ehlukahlukene yeminyaka eyikhulu egcinwe lapho.
USanta Luke uvela emlandweni ngo-1744, ku-akhawunti kaMbhishobhi uFray Manuel de Vargas y Ribera. Ngo-Ephreli 19 walowo nyaka kwaqubuka umlilo owesabekayo, okwathi ngokwenganekwane kwabangelwa ngabomdabu uqobo lwabo ukukhalaza ukuxhashazwa abefundisi nabaninimhlaba ababebanikeze khona.
Namuhla iSan Lucas yidolobha elincane lodaka namatshe elinabantu abangaphansi kuka-5 000. Abesifazane bayo, abayinzalo yamaTzotziles naseChiapas, baziwa ngama-mantillas abo amhlophe, ama-aprons ayizingcezu ezimbili, nezingubo ezinemibala egqamile; Kuvamile ukubabona bephethe izinto ezinkulu emakhanda abo futhi bephethe izingane - ama-pichisles azibiza ngothando - ezisongwe nge-batter emhlane noma ezinkalweni, ngaphandle kokulahlekelwa umusa nokulinganisela.
Ngasentshonalanga nedolobha, kudlula okusele kwengadi edumile yangaphambi kweSpanishi, enye yezindawo ezikhangayo zikamasipala itholakala: impophoma yaseSan Lucas, abanye abalimi abayazi njenge-El Chorro. Ukuze ufike empophomeni kufanele uwele umfula, uye entshonalanga yedolobha, bese udabula imihosha emincane lapho amanzi ewela khona. Ukuhambahamba kuyindlela epholile futhi emnandi. Izingane nabesifazane bakhuphukela emzaneni olayishwe amabhakede ezithelo neminenke yomfula okuthiwa ama-shutis. Impophoma yeSan Lucas ishibilika kusuka cishe emamitheni angamashumi amabili, yakhe amachibi amancane embhedeni. Ukuze ufinyelele esisekelweni sayo kufanele udlulele emfuleni, phakathi kwezindonga lapho uhlaza lulele khona.
Ukuzulazula osebeni lomfula ogcwele imijunipha enamaqabunga, kungene ezinkingeni zensimu emnyama futhi kuphumule ethangeni lika-El Chorro, kuyizaba ezingcono kakhulu zokuvakashela iSan Lucas nokuvalelisa kule ndawo ngomthwalo omuhle wezithelo zangempela zaseMexico. Uma ufuna ukuza eZapotal yakudala, shiya iTuxtla Gutiérrez ngomgwaqo omkhulu wamazwe omhlaba futhi phambi kweChiapa de Corzo ukuphambuka okuthi, ukudlula e-Acala naseChiapilla, kusithathe ngaphansi kwehora siye kuleli dolobha elikhohliwe isikhathi.
Futhi ukuqhubeka esifundeni manje siya kumasipala waseTotolapa.
Sishiya iSan Lucas ngemuva bese sibuyela lapho kuhlangana khona umgwaqo omkhulu i-Acala-Flores Magón. Amakhilomitha ambalwa empumalanga ngumgwaqo osiholela kwelinye lamadolobha amadala kule ndawo, iTotolapa, noma iRío de los Pájaros.
I-aurora yaseTotolapa ibuyela ezikhathini zangaphambi kweSpanishi. Kunezindawo eziningana zemivubukulo kule ndawo, lapho kuvela khona amathempeli amabili angahloliwe, iTzementón, "itshe tapir", kanye neSanto Ton, "ongcwele wamatshe", eTzotzil. Ngokusho komphathi uThomas Lee, amazwe abo aqhamuka enhlaka hhayi kuphela kubantu abaseduze kepha nakubathengisi baseZapotec nabaseMexico.
ITotolapa ifinyelela esiqongweni segquma elizungezwe imihosha, njengenqaba engafinyeleleki, evikelwe ngezindonga zamatshe. Izindlela zalo ezindala zokungena ziyizintambo ezicwile phakathi kwezindonga zomhlaba nedwala elibonakala lenziwe ngezandla zabantu nalapho kudlula umuntu oyedwa kuphela ngesikhathi. Kuyacaca ukuthi abasunguli bakhethe le ndawo yokufinyelela okunzima ukuzivikela ezizweni eziningi ezidlula esifundeni, beba imikhiqizo, kulokhu inhlaka, futhi begqilaza izakhamuzi zayo, njengoba kwakwenziwa yiChiapas esabekayo.
I-Totolapa yidolobha elincane elinabantu abedlula izinkulungwane ezine, ikakhulukazi abampofu. Amanzi neziza kuphansi emabhange azungeze igquma. Ngenhla kunendlu yezindlu zotshani eziphansi, ezinye zenziwe ngodaka nenduku noma i-adobe, okuvela kuwo amafasitela abo, ubuso bezingane eziningi. Empeleni, lingelinye lamadolobha ampofu kakhulu kule ndawo, aswele amanzi acijile namapayipi, osekuhlupheke kaningi ukuhlaselwa yikholera nokunganakwa kwezinhlelo ezisemthethweni zentuthuko.
Ingxenye yomlando weTotolapa ingabonakala ezindongeni zethempeli laseSan Dionisio, ezithombeni zalo eziqoshwe ngokhuni nasematsheni aqoshiwe enxiwa lendlu yaseCoral.
Amasiko amahle kakhulu amaTotolapanecos avezwa emikhosini ka-Agasti nango-Okthoba, lapho bevakashelwa iziphathimandla zezenkolo nezomphakathi zikaNicolás Ruiz: abesilisa nabesifazane okuthi, behamba amaligi ayisishiyagalombili, beze nesiphambano sesifunda sabo gubha iVirgin of the Assumption neSan Dionisio. Amabhodi wokugubha abajabulisa ngemicikilisho eyingqayizivele yenhlonipho nemikhosi ehlala cishe izinsuku ezintathu.
Lapho sivakashele iTotolapa sasizoya ngenhloso yokubona amachibi aseLos Chorritos, atholakala e-2 km empumalanga yedolobha. Emotweni siwele lonke idolobha, silandela okuwukuphela kwendlela eholela ekugcineni kwethafa elide, elincanyana eliqhele umqhele phezulu kwegquma. Lapho-ke umzila uhamba ngezinyawo, wehla enye yalezi zindlela ezihlukile ezifana nezindlela ezimnyama ezicwile emhlabeni. Imihlambi ifayila ngoba ayikho indawo yokuningi phakathi kwezindonga eziphakeme zendlela encane. Uma amaqembu amabili ehlangana, elinye kufanele lilinde noma libuye ukuze elinye lidlule. Akukho lapho siye sabona khona izindlela ezinjalo.
Phansi singena osebeni loMfula iPachén. Sihamba kwelinye lamabhange komunye wemifudlana, futhi buqamama kunamachibi agcwalisa amanzi aseLos Chorritos. Amajethi wamakristalu angama-crystalline angamasayizi ayishumi ahlukahluka odongeni embozwe nge-cañabrava, ewela echibini elinombhede we-limestone okhombisa amathoni aluhlaza noma aluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, kuya ngokukhanya kosuku. Ichibi lijulile futhi abantu bendawo basikisela ukuthi ababhukudi bathathe izinyathelo zabo, njengoba kukholakala ukuthi kukhona usinki ngaphakathi.
Ngaphambi kokuqhubeka nohambo lwethu kubalulekile ukwazisa ukuthi iTotolapa neSan Lucas abanazo izindawo zokudlela, izindawo zokulala noma amagalaji kaphethiloli. Lezi zinsizakalo zitholakala eVilla de Acala, eChiapa de Corzo noma eTuxtla Gutiérrez. Uma uya empophomeni yaseSan Lucas noma eLos Chorritos de Totolapa, sincoma ukuthola umhlahlandlela kubaphathi bamasipala bamadolobha, ukuphepha nokunethezeka kwakho.
Intwasahlobo yasePinola izoba yingxenye yokugcina yohambo lwethu. Sisuka eTuxtla Gutiérrez siqonde emgwaqeni oya eVenustiano Carranza-Pujiltic, osithatha sihambe nomfula iGrijalva nemifula yawo, sidlule, phakathi kwezinye izindawo, ngekhethini ledamu lokuphehla ugesi iLa Angostura.
Ibanga elingamakhilomitha ayi-100 ukusuka eTuxtla yindawo yokugaya ushukela iPujiltic, okukhiqizwa kukashukela kungenye yezinto ezibaluleke kakhulu eMexico. Ukusuka lapha umgwaqo omkhulu oya e-Villa Las Rosas, Teopisca, San Cristóbal naseComitán, ohlanganisa umhlaba oshisayo nezintaba ezibandayo ze-Altos de Chiapas. Sithatha lo mzila nengxenye yamakhilomitha ayishumi nambili ukusuka eSoyatitán, ohlangothini lwesobunxele, sithola indlela yokuhamba ngobhuqu yase-Ixtapilla okuthi, ngamamitha angamakhulu ambalwa ngaphambili, kusiholele enjongweni yomzila wethu.
Umugqa wokuchitheka wePinola uhlala ngaphansi kwehlathi. Kuyi-oasis enokhuni ezindongeni zezintaba ezikhawulela ithafa lemibhede yomhlanga. Umsele wokunisela ugijima emgwaqweni oya e-Ixtapilla futhi lowo ngumhlahlandlela ongcono kakhulu wokufika edamini elilawula ukuhamba kwentwasahlobo.
Kuvalelwe ezimileni, njengemfihlo, umzimba wamanzi uheha ngokusobala kwawo, okukuvumela ukuthi ubheke phansi ngobukhali obungavamile. Umbhede ubonakala utholakala kalula, kepha ukuntywila okusheshayo kuveza ukuthi ungaphezu kwamamitha amane ukujula.
Ojekamanzi nezimvemvane ezimibalabala zindiza ngaphandle. Ngobuningi behlela esibukweni sesiziba ukuyodlala emaqabungeni azulazula osebeni. Kunamawolintshi, aphuzi, anemishwe njengamahlosi; Amanye anamaphiko ahlanganisa okumnyama nokubomvu, amanye aluhlaza afakwe amaqabunga futhi aluhlaza umbala wamanzi. Uyahlanya kunoma yimuphi umqokeleli.
Ukukhanya kwechibi kudlula indawo ezungezile. Ngakho-ke ukungena emanzini alo kungukubhapathizwa okuyiphupho kweqiniso okugcwele. Uma uvakashela i-Pinola spillway, ungakhohlwa i-visor, ezokwenza indlela yakho yokudilika ibe yinto engalibaleki.
Ukuqeda lolu hambo sifuna ukusho ukuthi idolobha eliseduzane nentwasahlobo yi-Villa Las Rosas -8 km away- igama layo elidala kwakunguPinola, eliqanjwe ngesiphuzo sommbila esibilile abantu bendawo abasijwayele.
Insimu yaseVilla Las Rosas icebile eziqongweni nasemihumeni, inemibukiso eminingi lapho "ungena ngolunye usuku bese ushiya olunye", noma njengomhume waseNachauk, othakathaka kabi, ngamazwi kaNazario Jiménez, ongowomdabu waseTzeltal owasihola kulezi zinkomba.
Ngaphezulu kweVilla Las Rosas, eSierra del Barreno, kunezinsalela ezingafundiswanga zezindawo zokukhonzela nezinqaba zangaphambi kweSpanishi. Esinye sazo yindlunkulu kaMukul Akil, ehola ihafu nengxenye yendlela eweni. Ngaphezu kwalokho, emgwaqeni oya ePujiltic ungabona ukucekelwa phansi kwethempeli lamakholoni laseSoyatitán, okuyi-façade kabaroque yakhe emi kukhaphethi omkhulu wemibhede yomhlanga.
IVilla Las Rosas inezinsiza zokulala, indawo yokudlela kanye negesi. Inani labantu lixhumana nenyakatho-ntshonalanga neTeopisca neSan Cristóbal de las Casas, nasempumalanga neComitán, ngemigwaqo egandayiwe.
Indawo engapheli, iChiapas izohlala inezinhlinzeko ezintsha zabafuna iMexico engaziwa. ISan Lucas, iTotolapa ne-Pinola spillway yizibonelo ezintathu zokuthi isihambi singathola malini uma singena ezindleleni nasemabhange aso amaningi.
Umthombo: IMexico engaziwa engu-265
