Yini le ndawo enayo abanye abaningi abasoGwini lwePacific abangenayo?
Ngenxa yokuthi ulwandle oluvulekile, alunamachweba, amagagasi alo awafanele umdlalo, futhi amagobolondo awavamile ukutholakala esihlabathini; imvamisa umoya uvunguza ngamandla futhi, lapho kungenjalo, omiyane bayagcwala, balangazelela ukuluma; izinsizakalo zayo zabavakashi zincane ... ngakho-ke yini eyenza iSesteo ibe yindawo ekhangayo? Hhayi-ke, akukho lutho ngaphandle kokudla kwalo, ukuthula kwalo nabantu balo. Akwanele yini lokho?
Uthathe umhlalaphansi emizileni eyinhloko yezivakashi esifundazweni saseNayarit, iSesteo ifinyelelwa umgwaqo ogandayiwe ongamakhilomitha angama-40 oqala ukusuka eSantiago Ixcuintla, idolobha elihle lezentengiselwano elinobuciko obuthokozisayo besikhathi sePorfirian, bese uphela eLos Corchos ejido, ukuya Lapho, qhubeka ngokusebenzisa igebe lekhilomitha elilodwa emhlabeni, kuze kufike lapho ungathola khona uchungechunge lwamakhothamo okuthi, ngezikhathi zezokuvakasha - eziyivelakancane lapho - asebenze njengendawo yokufika yezivakashi.
Yebo, izinsuku zokuvakasha zimbalwa: lonke iPhasika kanye noKhisimusi neminyaka emisha, akukho okunye. Ihlobo lethula inkathi yemvula esabisa noma ikuphi ukufuna ukwazi, futhi unyaka wonke kuphela abantu bendawo abavakashela izindawo zalo nolwandle lwalo, ngesigqi esithile nempilo yabo.
Uma uthi nhlá, iSesteo imane nje iyidolobhana lokudoba, kanti ezinye izindlu zenziwe ngezinto (usimende nebhlokhi) ezihlalwa kuphela phakathi namaholide ngoba iningi labantu lihlala eLos Corchos. Ukwazi kahle kakhulu, noma kunjalo, kusiholela ekutholeni ukuthi ngisho nokudoba akuyona indlela eyinhloko yokuhlalisa izakhamuzi zakhona, futhi lapho sibona izindlu zezwe ezilahliwe siyaqonda ukuthi kanye, emashumini amaningi eminyaka adlule, indawo yokuhlala yathembisa okunye, kepha ikusasa lalo kwaba enye.
Cishe eminyakeni engamashumi amane edlule, ngokusho kwabantu bendawo abeza ngalezo zikhathi, kwakhiwa umgwaqo omkhulu owazuzisa amadolobha afana ne-Otates, i-Villa Juárez, iLos Corchos neBoca de Camichín (lapho iphela ngegebe). Ngenxa yayo, ukukhula kwendawo esogwini kwaqala, okwakudume ngaleso sikhathi ngokukhiqizwa kwayo kwezinhlanzi kanye nama-oysters, kanye nezimfanzi zombili ezivela olwandle kanye nemifula ethembekile evame kakhulu kuso sonke leso sifunda saseNayarit. Ngakho-ke, ngomgwaqo ogandayiwe, abantu bakule ndawo bakwazi ukuhambisa imikhiqizo yabo ngokushesha okukhulu futhi abathengi abathengisayo bakwazi ukuyithola kabusha futhi ngentengo enkulu. Ngendlela efanayo, ngenxa yalowo mgwaqo omkhulu, othile wayenombono wokuhlela indawo yezivakashi, ehlukanisa inkatho eyayithengiswa ngokushesha nalapho abanikazi abasha baqala khona ukwakha izindlu zabo zempelasonto, kuleso sifunda ngekusasa elithembisayo. Abahlali babona ukuthi izwe lakubo elikhohliwe lakhula kanjani futhi bathola abantu ababengakaze babeke unyawo kulawo mazwe ngaphambili.
Nokho, amandla emvelo abonisa enye inkambo. Ibha yaqala ukunwebeka, yazuza ukuqhekeka. Izindlu eziningana zathinteka kanti ezinye zalahleka ngokuphelele ngaphansi kwamanzi. Kusukela lapho, amapulazi amaningi aselahliwe, ngaphandle kwabambalwa abaninikazi labo abavamise ukuvakashela kubo, abanye abaningi abagadwe umuntu nsuku zonke, nehhotela, elisinda ngokulambisa, ikakhulu ukuziqhenya komnikazi walo kunokuba ibhizinisi ngamunye. Nakhu kufanele kushiwo ukuthi kuleli hhotela eliphansi kodwa elihlanzekile, izindleko ngobusuku obubodwa egumbini eliphindwe kabili zilingana nentengo yamamagazini amabili avela eMexico angaziwa. Injalo-ke impilo eshibhile ngokungavamile!
Uhambo oludlulayo lwezokuvakasha olunenzuzo aluzange ludambise izakhamuzi. Babesaziphilisa ngokudoba noma ngokulima. Yebo, kuzwakala kungajwayelekile, kepha ama-ejidatarios amaningi aseLos Corchos angabadobi noma abalimi, noma bobabili, ngoba lawo mazwe nawo avundile futhi athakeme. Akusizi ngalutho ezinye zezindawo zikagwayi ezihamba phambili nezibanzi kakhulu ezitholakala esifundeni saseVilla Juárez; Ngokunjalo, kutshalwa ubhontshisi, utamatisi, ikhabe neminye imifino.
Njengabantu abaningi abasogwini, abantu baseSesteo banobungane futhi balula. Bathanda ukusebenzela izivakashi futhi bakhulume nabo, bababuze ngezindawo abadabuka kuzo bese ubatshela izindaba ngolwandle. Ukuchitha ubusuku enkampanini yakhe ukungena ezweni elingekho emadolobheni amakhulu. Yile ndlela esifunda ngayo ngeziphepho; mayelana nezigaba zenyanga nokuthi zithinta kanjani amagagasi, umoya nokudoba; olwandle njengenhlangano noma umoya ozwayo, uhlupheke, ube nobumnandi, onikeza lapho ujabulile futhi ususe lapho uthukuthele. Lapho siphinde sizwe ngokushiseka komdobi, ukuxhaphaza kwakhe-njengalokho kwendoda eyabamba i-snapper engamakhilogremu angu-18 ngezandla- ngisho nezindatshana zayo, njengaleyo ethi eminyakeni eminingi edlule ezinye iziboshwa ezivela eziqhingini zaseMarías (okuyizindawo amakhilomitha ambalwa emugqeni oqondile ogwini lolwandle) ukwazile ukubaleka ngezihlenga ezenziwe kabi futhi bafika ogwini lwaseSesteo ngokuphepha, lapho babalekela khona ukuze bangaphinde bazwakale.
Izinto ezifana nalezi sizifunda ngenkathi uDoña Lucía Pérez, wase "restaurant" i-El Parguito, elungisa i-robalo eshukunyiswe nge-huevona sauce (eyenziwe ngotamatisi, u-anyanisi, ikhukhamba, upelepele oluhlaza kanye nososi waseHuichol) kanye nesaladi lezimfanzi ezimnyama ezivela emfuleni ukuthi, ngokusho kwethu kusho umyeni wakhe, uDon Bacho, kumnandi kakhulu kunokudla kwasolwandle: ngemuva kokukunambitha asikungabazi.
Sekusebusuku, ngumoya oxosha omiyane abacasulayo; Ngaphansi kokukhanya okukhanyayo, uDoña Lucía nomalokazana wakhe uBalbina basebenza ekhishini elithobekile, elinobumba nobumba lwezinkuni, ukukhonza amakhasimende abo okuwukuphela kwawo, okuthi phakathi kokukhipha ubhiya ajabulele ingxoxo noDon Bacho, owayengumahluleli we-ejidal, nendodana yakhe uJoaquín, umsebenzi wokudoba. Izingane zakhe ezincane zilalela ngokucophelela ngaphandle kokungena engxoxweni. Umkhathi nokuhlelwa kuhle kakhulu.
“Kuthule kakhulu lapha, sonke singumndeni noma singabangani. Ungakwazi ukukhempa olwandle ngaphandle kokuphazamiseka. Kufanele sibheke ukuphepha kwakho ngoba ngale ndlela sigcina isithunzi sendawo ephephile. Cishe akekho ohlala ubusuku bonke, wonke umuntu uza ukuzochitha usuku futhi ahambe. Ihhotela elincane cishe alikaze libe nabantu, kodwa uma ligcwala sibona ukuthi singabamukela kanjani abangane bethu ”.
Kunjalo, iklayenti elifikayo futhi lihlanganyele nabo isikhathi nesikhathi nokuhlangenwe nakho kwabo liba ngaphezu kokujwayelana nje. Yilolohlobo lobungani oluhlukanisa laba bantu basemakhaya - ngemuva kobusuku obubili noma obuthathu bokuba ndawonye, ubungani buyazalwa.
Ngezinsuku zeholide ukunyakaza eSesteo kuncane. Lapha nalaphaya ubona imindeni nemibhangqwana ijabulela ulwandle, ilanga, amagagasi, futhi ihamba ogwini lolwandle olucishe lube ikhilomitha nohhafu ukusuka ebharini kuya kwelinye. Ukuthula kuphelele. Kuphela ngeviki elingcwele lapho ungakhuluma khona ngezixuku, "izixuku" kanye nokuxokozela. Kungalezo zinsuku lapho kugadwe khona yiNavy, amalungu ayo ahambela izindawo njalo ukugwema izinkinga, futhi ngaphandle kokufaka umlondolozi, ngenhlanhla, ongakaze enze umzamo emsebenzini wawo.
Ukubingelela izivakashi zesikhathi samaholide, sibona abantu bendawo basebenza kuma-enramada abo (noma i-palapas, njengoba ibizwa kanjalo kwezinye izifunda). Ngakho-ke sahlangana noServando García Piña, owayelungiselela ukulungisa isikhundla sakhe ezinsukwini zokufika kwezivakashi. Unakekela ukubeka amaqabunga amasha esundu ukuze azimboze emoyeni, kanti unkosikazi wakhe ulungisa okuzoba yikhishi. Izingane zakhe ezimbili ezincane zidlala ngokuzungezile futhi zisize ngendlela yazo. UServando uyama isikhashana ukuze aphumule futhi alungiselele ukhukhunathi awuthengisayo lapho eceliwe. Ungumuntu okhuluma kahle futhi uzijabulisa ngokulandisa ama-anecdotes angapheli, njengoba sijabulela ama-empanadas amnandi ezimfanzi asanda kuphekwa ngumkakhe.
ISesteo nayo ingathathwa njengendawo yokuqala ukuvakashela ezinye izindawo, njengolwandle lwaseLos Corchos, iBoca de Camichín, lapho kuthengiswa khona ama-oysters aphambili, noma ukuya eMexcaltitlán ngesikebhe, ohambweni olude emfuleni nasezizalweni zezimila ezimnandi. nezilwane, ukwazi idolobha lasenganekwaneni lapho ama-Aztec asuka khona. Uma uba umngani nomdobi, ungamphelezela ayodoba olwandle noma abambe imfanzi emachwebeni, kungokuhlangenwe nakho okuthakazelisa kakhulu futhi okukhombisa.
Ngamafuphi, iSesteo iyindawo ekahle kulabo abathanda ukudla kahle futhi ngamanani aphansi, izindawo ezinokuthula, ukuhlola izindawo okuvakashelwa kuzo izixuku, nokuhlala nabantu abakude nakho konke ukungcola.
