Landela umlando wohambo olukhulu lwezifunda ezahlukahlukene ngebhayisikili!
SAN LUIS POTOSI
Besidlulile amagquma, kepha besinephutha ukucabanga ukuthi ngenxa yalesi sizathu le ngxenye izoba lula kakhulu. Iqiniso ukuthi ayikho imigwaqo eyisicaba; ngemoto umgwaqo udlulela emkhathizwe futhi ubukeka uyisicaba, kodwa ngebhayisikili umuntu uyabona ukuthi umuntu uhlala ehla noma enyuka njalo; kanti ama-swings angama-300 km asuka eSan Luis Potosí aya eZacatecas ayephakathi kohambo olunzima kakhulu. Futhi kwehluke kakhulu uma ukhuphuka njengasezintabeni, uthatha isigqi futhi uyazi ukuthi uzosidlulisa, kepha ngokushwiba okuphansi kancane nokujuluka ngokukhuphuka, futhi kaninginingi.
ZACATECAS
Kepha umvuzo wawumkhulu kakhulu, ngoba kunokuthile okungachazeki emoyeni wale ndawo yezwe, futhi ukuvuleka kwendawo kuyakumema ukuba uzizwe ukhululekile. Nokushona kwelanga! Angisho ukuthi ukushona kwelanga akukuhle kwezinye izindawo, kodwa kule ndawo ziba yizikhathi eziphakeme; Zikwenza uyeke ukwenza itende noma ukudla bese uyayeka ukugcwalisa lokho kukhanya, ngomoya, ngayo yonke imvelo ebukeka ibingelela uNkulunkulu futhi ibonga impilo.
DURANGO
Simbozwe kule ndawo siqhubekela edolobheni laseDurango, sikanisa ukuze sijabulele ubuhle obuhle futhi obunokuthula beSierra de Órganos. Emaphethelweni edolobha, i-thermometer yehla ngaphansi kuka-zero (-5) okokuqala ngqa, yakha isithwathwa emigqonyeni yamatende, yasenza sazama ukudla kwasekuseni kwasekuqaleni okubandayo futhi yasikhombisa ukuqala kwalokho okusilindele eChihuahua.
EDurango sashintsha imizila silandela izeluleko kuphela ezilungile emigwaqeni esiyitholile (okuxakayo kumhambi wase-Italiya, futhi esikhundleni sokukhuphuka phakathi kwamagquma sibheke eHidalgo del Parral, saqonda ngaseTorreón emgwaqeni oyisicaba, umoya uvuna futhi phakathi kwamathafa amahle, ipharadesi labagibeli bamabhayisikili.
COAHUILA
UTorreón usamukele ngezindwendwe zeNcasakazi yaseGuadalupe kanye nenhliziyo evulekile yomndeni wakwaSamia, ehlanganyela ikhaya labo kanye nezimpilo zabo nathi izinsuku ezimbalwa, eqinisa inkolelo yethu ebuhleni babantu baseMexico kanye nobuhle besiko lethu lomndeni. .
Ukusuka eDurango imindeni yethu yasibikela ngezimo zezulu eChihuahua, futhi ngezwi elikhathazekile basitshela ngama-degree angu-10 asezintabeni, noma ukuthi likhithikile eCiudad Juárez. Bazibuza ukuthi sizowenza kanjani amakhaza futhi, uma sikhuluma iqiniso, nathi sasinjalo. Ngabe izingubo esizilethayo zizokwanela? Uzinyathela kanjani ngaphansi kwama-degree ama-5? Kwenzekani uma likhithika ezintabeni?: Imibuzo ebesingakwazi ukuyiphendula.
Futhi nge "kahle" yaseMexico ake sibone ukuthi yini ephuma ", silokhu sinyathela. Ibanga phakathi kwamadolobha lasivumela isimangaliso sokumisa amatende enyakatho, phakathi kwe-cacti, kwathi ngakusasa ameva abekwa ngaphezu kwesondo elilodwa eliqhumile. Sivuke ngaphansi kuka-zero, izimbiza zamanzi zenza iqhwa, kepha izinsuku zazicacile futhi ekuseni kakhulu izinga lokushisa lokunyathela lalilungile. Futhi kwakungolunye lwalezo zinsuku eziqhakazile lapho sakwazi khona ukweqa amakhilomitha ayi-100 sihamba ngosuku olulodwa. Isizathu sokugubha!
CHIHUAHUA
Sasintanta. Lapho umuntu elandela inhliziyo yakhe, injabulo iyavela nokuzethemba, njengakuDona Dolores, owacela imvume yokuthinta imilenze yethu, emamatheka ngokwesaba ezindebeni zakhe futhi ekhuthaza amantombazane asendaweni yokudlela ukuba enze okufanayo: Kufanele usizakale! ”Wasitshela ngenkathi sihleka, futhi ngalokhu kumamatheka sangena edolobheni laseChihuahua.
Sifisa ukuhlanganyela ngohambo lwethu, saya emaphephandabeni amadolobha asendleleni yethu futhi udaba oluphume ephephandabeni laseChihuahua lathatha ukunaka kwabantu. Abantu abaningi basibingelela emgwaqeni, abanye bebesilindele ukuthi sidlule edolobheni labo futhi basicela ngisho nama-autograph.
Sasingazi ukuthi singene kuphi, sezwa ngemigwaqo evaliwe ngenxa yeqhwa namazinga okushisa ka-minus 10. Sasicabanga ukuthi sizoya enyakatho futhi siwele ohlangothini lwe-Agua Prieta, kodwa lwalulude futhi kuneqhwa eliningi; ngeNuevo Casas Grandes ibimfishane kepha ihamba kakhulu emithambekeni yamagquma; Kuma-Basaseachic amazinga okushisa abe ngu-13 degrees. Sinqume ukubuyela emzileni wokuqala bese siwela eHermosillo sidlula eBasaseachic; noma kunjalo besihlele ukukhuphukela eCreel naseCopper Canyon.
"Noma ngabe bakuphi ngoKhisimusi, singafinyelela kubo lapho," kusho umzala wami uMarcela. Sanquma ukuthi kwakunguCreel futhi wafika lapho nomshana wami uMauro kanye nesidlo sakusihlwa sikaKhisimusi emapotimendeni akhe: ama-romeritos, i-cod, isibhakela, ngisho nesihlahla esincane esinakho konke kanye nemikhakha!, Futhi benza phakathi kwamakhasi ayi-13 degrees, usuku lwethu oluphelele lukaKhisimusi futhi egcwele ukufudumala kwasekhaya.
Bekufanele sivalelise kulowo mndeni ofudumele bese siqonda ngasezintabeni; Izinsuku zazicace bha futhi kwakungekho simemezelo ngokukhithika kweqhwa, futhi kwakudingeka sisizakale ngakho, ngakho-ke saqonda cishe ezintabeni ezingama-400 zezintaba esasizidinga ukufinyelela eHermosillo.
Engqondweni bekukhona induduzo yokuthi usufike maphakathi nohambo, kepha ukuze unyohlise izinyawo kufanele usebenzise imilenze yakho - lokhu bekuyinto ebambekayo phakathi kwengqondo nomzimba - futhi lokhu akusaniki. Izinsuku ezisezintabeni zazibonakala njengokugcina kohambo. Izintaba zazilokhu zivela zilandelana. Ukuphela kwento eyathuthuka izinga lokushisa, sehla saya ngasogwini futhi kubonakala ukuthi amakhaza ahlala ezindaweni eziphakeme kakhulu zezintaba. Sasifika ekugcineni kwezinto, sichithe ngempela, lapho sithola okuthile okushintshe imimoya yethu. Wayesitshele ngomunye umgibeli wamabhayisikili owayegibela ezintabeni, yize ekuqaleni sasingazi ukuthi wayengasisiza kanjani.
Mude futhi mncane, uTom wayengumlingisi ovelele waseCanada ohamba emhlabeni ngokungatatazeli. Kodwa kwakungeyona ipasipoti yakhe eyashintsha isimo sethu. UTom walahlekelwa yingalo yakhe yangakwesobunxele eminyakeni edlule.
Kusukela ngengozi wayengasashiyanga ikhaya, kodwa kwafika usuku lapho anquma khona ukugibela ibhayisikili lakhe nokuhamba emigwaqweni yaleli zwekazi.
Saxoxa isikhathi eside; Simuphe amanzi bese sivalelisa. Ngenkathi siqala sasingasabuzwa lobo buhlungu obuncane, manje obubukeka bungabalulekile, futhi asizizwanga sikhathele. Ngemuva kokuhlangana noTom sayeka ukukhononda.
SONORA
Ngemuva kwezinsuku ezimbili isaha lase liqediwe. Ngemuva kwezinsuku eziyi-12 sase siwele yonke imitha ebangeni elingamakhilomitha angama-600 eSierra Madre Occidental. Abantu basizwa simemeza futhi bengaqondi, kepha kwakudingeka sigubhe, yize singazange silethe ngisho nemali.
Safika eHermosillo futhi into yokuqala esayenza, ngemuva kokuvakashela ibhange, kwaba ukuyothenga u-ayisikhilimu - sadla kane ngamunye - ngaphambi kokucabanga nokuthi sizolala kuphi.
Basixoxile emsakazweni wendawo, benza udaba lwethu ephephandabeni futhi umlingo wabantu wasigubuzela. Abantu baseSonora basinike izinhliziyo zabo. ECaborca, uDaniel Alcaráz nomndeni wakhe basamukela ngqo, futhi babelana ngempilo yabo nathi, okusenza sibe yingxenye yenjabulo yokuzalwa komunye wabazukulu babo ngokusibiza ngomalume bokutholwa belungu elisha lomndeni. Sizungezwe yilomfudumalo womuntu ocebile, uphumule futhi ngenhliziyo egcwele, sishaya umgwaqo futhi.
Inyakatho yezwe nayo inezintelezi zayo, futhi angikhulumi nje ngobuhle besifazane baso, kodwa ngomlingo wasogwadule. Kulapha lapho ukushisa kwaseningizimu nasenyakatho ye-gulf kuthola khona umqondo. Sihlela uhambo lokuwela izingwadule ebusika, siphunyuke ekushiseni nasezinyokeni. Kepha bekungeke kukhululeke futhi, futhi bekufanele siphokophele umoya, okwamanje oshaya ngamandla.
Enye inselelo enyakatho amabanga aphakathi kwedolobha nedolobha -150, 200 km-, ngoba ngaphandle kwesihlabathi ne-cacti kuncane okudliwayo uma kunesimo esiphuthumayo. Isixazululo: layisha izinto eziningi. Ukudla kwezinsuku eziyisithupha namalitha amanzi angama-46, okuzwakala kulula, uze uqale ukudonsa.
Ugwadule lwe-Altar lwaluba lude kakhulu futhi amanzi, njengesineke, ayesiba mancane. Kwakuyizinsuku ezinzima, kodwa sakhuthazwa ubuhle bomhlaba, izindunduma nokushona kwelanga. Babekade beyizigaba zodwa, begxile kithina, kodwa ukuze sifike eSan Luis Río Colorado, ukuxhumana nabantu babuya ngeqembu labagibeli bamabhayisikili ababebuya ngeloli bevela emqhudelwaneni owawuseHermosillo. Ukumamatheka, ukuxhawulana kanye nomusa kaMargarito Contreras osinikeze indlu yakhe nobhasikidi wesinkwa lapho sifika eMexico.
Ngaphambi kokushiya i-Altar, ngabhala izinto eziningi ngehlane kudayari yami: “… kunokuphila lapha kuphela, inqobo nje uma inhliziyo ikufuna”; ... sikholelwa ukuthi yindawo engenalutho, kodwa empilweni yayo enokuthula idlidlizela yonke indawo ”.
Safika eSan Luis Río Colorado sikhathele; Ngenxa yokuthi ugwadule lwaluthathe amandla amaningi kithi, sawela leli dolobha ngokuthula, cishe sidabukile, sifuna indawo yokumisa amatende.
BAJA CALIFORNIAS
Sishiya iSan Luis Río Colorado, sathola uphawu olwalumemezela ukuthi sesivele siseBaja California. Okwamanje, ngaphandle kokubakhona komqondo ophakathi kwethu, sajabula, saqala ukugwedla sengathi usuku luqalile futhi ngokumemeza sabungaza ukuthi sesidlulile ezifundazweni eziyi-121 kwezingu-14 zomzila wethu.
Ukushiya iMexicoali bekunamandla kakhulu, ngoba phambi kwethu bekukhona uLa Rumorosa. Selokhu saqala uhambo basitshela: "Yebo, cha, kungcono niwele iSan Felipe." Wayengumdondoshiya odalwe emqondweni wethu, futhi manje usuku lwase lufikile lokubhekana naye. Sasibala cishe amahora ayisithupha ukukhuphuka, ngakho-ke sahamba ngaphambi kwesikhathi. Amahora amathathu nemizuzu eyishumi nanhlanu kamuva besiphezulu.
Manje yebo, iBaja California iphansi impela. Amaphoyisa ombuso ancoma ukuthi silale lapho, njengoba imimoya yaseSanta Ana yayivunguza ngamandla futhi kwakuyingozi ukuhamba emgwaqweni omkhulu. Ngakusasa ekuseni salibangisa eTecate, sathola amanye amaloli agingqika ngenxa yomoya owawusuka ntambama.
Sasingenakho ukulawula kwamabhayisikili, sidudulwa okuthile okungabonakali, ngokungazelelwe ukuphusha kusuka kwesokudla, kwesinye isikhathi kusuka kwesobunxele. Izikhathi ezimbili ngakhishwa emgwaqeni, ngingalawuleki ngokuphelele.
Ngaphezu kwamandla emvelo, ayethathekile, sasinezinkinga ezinkulu ngokuthwala kwama-trailer. Ngesikhathi befika e-Ensenada base bevele beduma njengamakinati. Kwakungekho ingxenye esasiyidinga. Kwakuyindaba yokuphuculwa - njengakho konke okunye kulolu hambo - ngakho-ke sasebenzisa amabheringi esayizi ehlukile, saphendula imiphini sayifaka ngaphansi kwengcindezi, sazi ukuthi uma yehluleka kithi, sizofika lapho. Ukuzola kwethu kuthathe izinsuku ezimbalwa, kodwa nalapha samukelwa ngezandla ezifudumele. Umndeni wakwaMedina Casas (omalume baka-Alex) babelane ngomuzi wabo nomdlandla wabo nathi.
Kwesinye isikhathi besizibuza ukuthi ngabe kukhona esikwenzile okufanele yini lokho esikunikiwe. Abantu babesiphatha ngothando olukhetheke kangangoba kwakunzima kimi ukuqonda. Basinike ukudla. ubuciko, izithombe ngisho nemali. "Ungangitsheli ukuthi cha, yithathe, ngikunikeza ngenhliziyo yami," indoda ethile yangitshela eyasinika ama-peso angama-400; ngesinye isikhathi, umfana wanginikeza i-baseball yakhe: "Ngicela uyithathe." Bengingafuni ukumshiya ngaphandle kwebhola lakhe, futhi bekungekho okuningi okwenza ngalo ebhayisekilini; kepha ngumoya wokwabelana ngokuthile okubalulekile, futhi ibhola lisedeskini lami, lapha phambi kwami, lingikhumbuza ngokunotha kwenhliziyo yaseMexico.
Siphinde sathola ezinye izipho, uKayla wafika ngenkathi siphumule eBuena Vista -dolobha eliseduze nomgwaqo omkhulu sishiya i-Ensenada-, manje sasinezinja ezintathu. Mhlawumbe wayenezinyanga ezimbili ubudala, ubuhlanga bakhe bungachazeki, kepha wayethandana kakhulu, enobungane futhi ehlakaniphile, kangangokuthi asikwazanga ukumelana naye.
Engxoxweni yokugcina abayenze nathi - kuthelevishini i-Ensenada - basibuze ukuthi ngabe sithatha inhlonhlo njengesigaba esinzima kakhulu sohambo. Mina, ngingazi, ngaphendula cha, futhi nganginephutha kakhulu. Sihlupheka uBaja. ISierra ngemuva kwe-sierra, imimoya ewela, amabanga amade phakathi kwedolobha nedolobha nokushisa kogwadule.
Sibe nenhlanhla kulo lonke lolu hambo, njengoba abantu abaningi bebesihlonipha emgwaqeni (ikakhulukazi abashayeli bamaloli, yize ungacabanga ngenye indlela), kepha simbonile evala kaningi. Kunabantu abangacabangi kuyo yonke indawo, kepha lapha bacishe basicaba izikhathi ezimbalwa. Ngenhlanhla siluqedile uhambo lwethu ngaphandle kwezingqinamba noma izingozi zokuzisola. Kepha kungakuhle ukwenza abantu baqonde ukuthi imizuzwana engu-15 yesikhathi sakho ayibalulekile ngokwanele ukubeka impilo yomunye (nezinja zakhe) engcupheni.
Kule nhlonhlo, ukuhamba kwabantu bakwamanye amazwe abahamba ngamabhayisikili kuhlukile. Sahlangana nabantu abavela e-Italy, eJapan, eScotland, eJalimane, eSwitzerland nase-United States. Sasingabantu esingabazi, kodwa kwakukhona okuthile okwasihlanganisa; Ngaphandle kwesizathu, ubungane bazalwa, ukuxhumana ongakuqonda kuphela uma uhambe ngebhayisikili. Basibuka ngokumangala, babheka kakhulu izinja, kakhulu ngesisindo esisidonsile, kepha ngaphezulu ngokuba ngabaseMexico. Sasingabafokazi ezweni lakithi; Baphawule bathi: "Ukuthi abantu baseMexico abathandi ukuhamba kanjalo." Yebo siyawuthanda, sawubona umoya ezweni lonke, asizange nje siwuyeke ukhululeke.
BAJA CALIFORNIA ENINGIZIMU
Sahamba isikhathi saqhubeka maphakathi nalelo zwe. Sasibalile ukuthi sizoqeda lolu hambo ezinyangeni ezinhlanu futhi kwasekuvele kungokwesikhombisa. Futhi akusikho ukuthi bezingekho izinto ezinhle, ngoba inhlonhlo igcwele zona: sikanise ngaphambi kokushona kwelanga lasePacific, sathola umoya wokungenisa izihambi wabantu baseSan Quintín naseGuerrero Negro, saya ukuyobona imikhomo echibini i-Ojo de Liebre futhi Samangala ngamahlathi e-candelabra kanye nesigodi samakhandlela, kepha ukukhathala kwethu kwakungasekho okwenyama, kepha okwakungokomzwelo, futhi ukubhujiswa kwenhlonhlo akusizanga kangako.
Sasesidlulile okokugcina kwezinselelo zethu, i-El Vizcaíno Desert, futhi ukubona ulwandle futhi kusinikeze umoya omncane esasisele nawo endaweni ethile ehlane.
Sidlule eSanta Rosalía, Mulegé, ichweba elimangalisayo laseConcepción naseLoreto, lapho savalelisa khona olwandle sabhekisa amabombo eCiudad Constitución. Kakade lapha kwaqala ukubakhona injabulo ejulile, umuzwa wokuthi siyifinyelele, futhi sayiphuthumisa imashi ebheke eLa Paz. Kodwa-ke, umgwaqo wawungeke usidedele sihambe kalula kangaka.
Saqala ukuba nezinkinga zemishini, ikakhulukazi ngebhayisikili lika-Alejandro, elalivele liwe ngemuva kwamakhilomitha angama-7,000. Lokhu kubange ukungqubuzana phakathi kwethu, ngoba bekunezinsuku lapho bekuyindaba yokuhamba ngeloli edolobheni eliseduze ukuyolungisa ibhayisikili lakhe. Lokho kungasho ukuthi ngilinde amahora ayisishiyagalombili phakathi nogwadule. Ngangikubekezelela lokho, kepha lapho ngakusasa liphinde laduma futhi, lapho ngaphuka.
Besinesiqiniseko sokuthi ngemuva kokuhlala ndawonye izinyanga eziyisikhombisa sihamba ndawonye, kukhona amathuba amabili: kungaba siklingene, noma ubungane baqina. Ngenhlanhla bekungokwesibili, kuthe uma iqhuma ngemuva kwemizuzu embalwa sagcina sesihleka futhi sincokola. Izinkinga zemishini zalungiswa futhi sayishiya iLa Paz.
Besingaphansi kwesonto ukusuka egoli. E-Todos Santos saphinde sahlangana noPeter noPetra, umbhangqwana waseJalimane owayehamba nenja yakhe ngesithuthuthu saseRussia bevela eMpini Yezwe II, nasendaweni yobungane ezwakala emgwaqweni, sahamba sayofuna indawo ebhekene ebhishi lapho ungamisa khona.
Ezikhwameni zethu zezikhwama kwaphuma ibhodlela lewayini elibomvu noshizi, kumakhukhi abo noswidi wegwava futhi kubo bonke umoya ofanayo wokuhlanganyela, wenhlanhla esaba nayo yokuhlangana nabantu bezwe lethu.
IGOLI
Ngakusasa saluqeda uhambo lwethu, kodwa asizange sikwenze sodwa. Bonke abantu ababelane ngephupho lethu babezongena nathi eCabo San Lucas; kusukela kulabo abasivulela indlu yabo futhi basenza saba yingxenye yomndeni wabo ngaphandle kwemibandela, kulabo abaseceleni komgwaqo noma ewindini lemoto yabo abasisekela ngokumamatheka nangegagasi. Ngalolo suku ngabhala kudayari yami: “Abantu basibuka sidlula. ..Izingane zisibuka njengalabo abasakholelwa kupirates. Abesifazane basibheka ngokwesaba, abanye ngoba singabantu esingabazi, abanye ngokukhathazeka, njengoba kwenza labo abangomama kuphela; kodwa akuwona wonke amadoda asibukayo, labo abenza kanjalo, ngicabanga ukuthi, yilabo kuphela abanesibindi sokuphupha ”.
Okukodwa, okubili, okukodwa, okubili, ukunyathela okukodwa ngemuva kokunye. Yebo, bekuyiqiniso: besesiwele iMexico ngebhayisikili.
Umthombo: UMexico ongaziwa u-309 / Novemba 2002
