Yiziphi izingubo ezazisetshenziswa eMexico kule nkathi ebalulekile yomlando wayo? IMexico engaziwa ikwembulela yona ...
EMexico, imfashini kusondele kuyo ngendlela echazayo, ngaphandle kwezindlela ezifanele ezibhekwe ngokomqondo obanzi wezenhlalo. Kungakho kufanelekile ukuphakamisa, ezifundweni ezizayo, ukubonwa kwendaba evelele yezingubo ngaphakathi komongo wezenhlalo obandakanya umkhakha wamasiko nemibono. Futhi-ke, kubalulekile ukubeka le nkinga empilweni yansuku zonke yabantu baseMexico bekhulu leshumi nesishiyagalolunye kuwo wonke amazinga ezenhlalo, ukuze kujuliswe ukuqonda kwayo.
Incazelo eningiliziwe yezimpawu zezingubo eziphefumulelwe, ikakhulukazi ezaseYurophu, eziguqulwe imvelo yethu azanele ngaleso sikhathi; kunalokho, kungcono ukubheka udaba lwezingubo olusebenzayo engxenyeni yesibili yekhulu leshumi nesishiyagalolunye eMexico, njengomphumela wezici ezimbili ezibalulekile. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, umqondo, umqondo ogqamile ngabesifazane, isithombe sabo nomsebenzi wabo kuwo wonke amazinga ezenhlalo, umkhuba ohambisana nezindlela ezikhona manje kuzo zombili izincwadi nobuciko. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, ukuthuthuka okumbalwa kwemboni yendwangu ezweni lethu kanye namathuba wokungenisa izindwangu nezesekeli ezigcwalisa izembatho ezifashisayo nezisetshenziswa kakhulu. Ngesikhathi sePorfiriato imboni yendwangu yakhula, yize imikhiqizo yayo yayigxile ekukhiqizeni izindwangu zikakotini nezingubo zokulala.
Ama-blouses, ama-bodices, amahembe, ama-corset, ama-lace bodices, ama-petticoat amaningi, ama-crinolines, ama-crinolines, ama-camisoles, ama-camisoles, i-frú, i-frú silk, i-pouf, i-bustle, nezinye; inani elingenamkhawulo lezingubo ezimhlophe, okotini noma izingubo zelineni, obekuhloselwe ngalo ukuthi izintokazi zomphakathi zithuthukise ubuhle bazo. Izesekeli ezinhlobonhlobo ezifana nezambulela, izigqoko, izikhafu, amakhola wezintambo, amagilavu, izikhwama, amateki, amabhuzu ezinqeni, nokunye okuningi.
Engxenyeni yesibili yekhulu le-19, umqondo owawukhona ukuthi abesifazane, ngokuba khona kwabo, imihlobiso yabo kanye nezingubo zabo, banikeza amadoda udumo futhi babe yisibonelo esiphilayo sempumelelo yabo yezomnotho, umbandela owawusebenza phakathi kwalabo ababizwa ngokuthi “abantu izinwele ".
Ngemuva kweminyaka yenkululeko, ngaphansi kwethonya likaNapoleon, izingubo ezincane nezamabhubhu ezikhathi zoMbuso wase-Iturbide zaqala ukunweba kancane kancane “ngemfashini” lapho abesifazane babengakaze basebenzise indwangu engaka ukugqoka. IMarquesa Calderón de la Barca ibhekise “ezingutsheni ezicebile” yize bekuyisidala okwakugqokwa ngabesifazane baseMexico, ababehlukaniswa yingcebo yobucwebe babo.
Phakathi kuka-1854 no-1868, futhi ikakhulukazi phakathi neminyaka yoMbuso kaMaximilian, ama-crinolines nama-crinolines afinyelela phezulu, okwakungeyona nje izakhiwo ezakwazi ukusekela isiketi esifinyelela kumamitha amathathu ububanzi futhi cishe amamitha angamashumi amathathu indwangu. Ngakho-ke, isithombe sowesifazane singesesithombe esingafinyeleleki esigcina indawo esikuyo ikude. Akutholakali njengomuntu othandana naye, ovusa inkanuko futhi okhohlisayo ngokungafani neqiniso lansuku zonke: cabanga ngobunzima obukhulu bokuhlala noma bokuhambahamba, kanye nokungahambi kahle kokwenza impilo yansuku zonke.
U-Antonio García Cubas, encwadini yakhe ebabazekayo ethi The Book of My Memories, ubhekise kulo mfashini ovela eParis "oveze izintokazi ezingxabanweni nasehlazweni". Uchaze lokho okubizwa nge- "crinoline" njengesambatho esiqinile esenziwe ngendwangu eshisiwe noma ethe nsi futhi i-crinoline "ingumlandeli" owakhiwe "wezinhlamvu ezine noma ezinhlanu ze-rattan hoops noma amashidi amancane ensimbi, kusuka kokuncane kuya kububanzi obukhulu futhi kuxhunywe ngamaribhoni indwangu ". Umbhali ofanayo wachaza ngomusa ubunzima obabunikezwa yi-crinoline "ekhohlisayo": yaphakama ingcindezi encane, yabonakala emanzini, yembula ingxenye yangaphakathi futhi yaba "yigumbi elingenakho ukuqonda" ngesihe somoya. Okwezemidlalo yaseshashalazini ne-opera, kanye nemihlangano namaphathi kusihlwa, intambo yayithuthukiswa, inamahlombe angenalutho, nokwakheka kwemikhono nokuphakama kokhalo kwenziwa lula. Ngokuyinhloko, ukuzungeza komzimba kuboniswe ezintanjeni ezinomusa, lapho ezaseMexico zazilinganiselwe, uma siziqhathanisa nokusetshenziswa kwalokhu enkantolo yaseFrance i-Eugenia de Montijo.
Emini, ikakhulukazi ukuhambela imisa, izintokazi bezenza lula izingubo zazo futhi zigqoke ama-mantillas aseSpain namaveyili kasilika, omncane kunabo bonke, noma embozwe ngeshali losilika. UGarcía Cubas usho ukuthi akekho umuntu owayegqoke isigqoko esontweni. Mayelana nalezi zesekeli, umbhali uzichaze ngokuthi "yilezo zimbiza ezigcwele izimbali, lezo zindlu zezinyoni nezinto ezingathandeki ezinamaribhoni, izimpaphe namaphiko egwababa izintokazi ezigqoka emakhanda azo futhi sezibizwa ngokuthi izigqoko."
Ngokucaciswa kwezingubo, bekungakabi bikho imboni yendwangu ebiyelulwa ngokwanele futhi ihlukahlukene emikhiqizweni yayo ezweni lethu, yingakho izindwangu eziningi bezingenisiwe futhi izingubo zenziwa ngokukopisha amamodeli aseYurophu, ikakhulukazi awaseParis, ngabathungi noma Abathungi bomdabu. Kwakunezitolo ezinabanikazi bazo baseFrance abathengise amamodeli cishe abiza kane kunaseParis, ngenxa yemisebenzi yamasiko engezwe enzuzweni. Lezi zimali zikhokhelwe ngenjabulo kuphela inani elilinganiselwe labesifazane abacebile.
Ngokwabo, abesifazane basedolobheni abazinikele ekusebenzeni - abathengisi bemifino, izimbali, izithelo, amanzi, ama-tortilla, ukudla, nasemsebenzini wabo, i-grinder, i-ironer, i-laundress, i-tamalera, i-buñolera futhi abaningi abengeziwe “ngezinwele zabo ezimnyama eziqonde ngqo, amazinyo abo amhlophe abonisa ngokukhululeka nangokuhleka okungajwayelekile…” - babegqoke ama-huipiles namathoyizi amancane ngoboya obunemibala noma izindwangu zikakotini. Imihlobiso yabo yakhiwa "imigexo nezinsimbi, izindandatho zesiliva ezandleni zabo namacici e-coral gourd" namacici abo egolide, nawo ayegqokwa ngowesifazane owenza ama-enchiladas, afana nomthengisi wamanzi ahlanzekile. Impela, njengengubo ebaluleke kakhulu bekuyi sheshi, elenziwe ngosilika noma ukotini, inani lalo elincike ebude balo, ukwakheka kwamaphethelo nangemva kwalokho abesifazane abacashe ngakho: “bafihla ibunzi, ikhala nomlomo futhi babona kuphela amehlo abo amsulwa, njengabesifazane abangama-Arab… futhi uma bengazigqoki, babonakala behamba-ze… ”Ubukhona besifazane bendabuko baseChina buyegqama, begqoke“ ipitikoti langaphakathi elinentambo yoboya efekethisiwe emaphethelweni, abawabiza ngokuthi amathiphu enchilada; phezu kwaleyo petticoat kuhamba enye eyenziwe nge-beaver noma usilika efekethwe ngamaribhoni anemibala evuthayo noma ama-sequin; ihembe elicolekileyo, elifekethisiwe ngosilika noma ubuhlalu ... ngeshawuli losilika eliphonswa ehlombe ... nonyawo lwakhe olufushane esicathulweni se-satin ... "
Ingubo yesilisa, ngokungafani neyesifazane, yayigcinwa kakhulu ngaphakathi kwenduduzo nomsebenzi womsebenzi. Abalimi bomdabu nabelusi abashiswe yilanga, babegqoka ihembe elingalindelekile nezikhindi zokulala ezimhlophe. Ngakho-ke ukukhiqizwa kwezingubo zokulala zikakotini okwavela kuzo amafemu amaningi aseMexico ngasekupheleni kwekhulu le-19.
Ngokuqondene nabafuyi, izingubo zabo zaziqukethe "amanye ama-calzoneras enziwe nge-suede yenyamazane, ehlotshiswe ezinhlangothini ngezinkinobho zesiliva ... abanye bagqoka indwangu nge-braid yegolide ...", isigqoko esihlotshiswe nge-shawl yesiliva, amaphiko amakhulu nasezinhlangothini zengilazi "ezinye izingcwecwe zesiliva ezime njengokhozi noma igolide elishoshozelayo." Wamboza umzimba wakhe ngomkhono we-Acámbaro, uhlobo oluthile lwe-cape, kanye ne-serape evela eSaltillo, ebhekwa njengehamba phambili.
Izingubo zabesilisa kwakuyibhantshi eline-frock, nesigqoko esiphakeme, ibhantshi, umfaniswano wezempi, noma i-ranchero noma i-charro costume. Izingubo zamadoda zihlala zifana cishe kusukela kusetshenziswa ijazi likaFrank nguBenito Juárez neqembu labakhululekileyo, abagcina ngokuziqhenya ukuqina kweRiphabhulikhi njengophawu lwokwethembeka nohulumeni omuhle. Lesi simo sengqondo saze sadlulela nakwabafazi. Kufanele kukhunjulwe inkomba ekhumbulekayo yencwadi uMargarita Maza de Juárez ayenzela umyeni wakhe: “Konke ubuhle bami kwakuhlanganisa nengubo owangithengela yona eMonterrey eminyakeni emibili edlule, ukuphela kwayo enginayo njalo futhi engiyigcinela isikhathi lapho kufanele ngenze okuthile. ukuvakasha komaka ... "
Njengoba kuphela ikhulu leshumi nesishiyagalolunye, ukusetshenziswa komkhakha wezindwangu kanye nokwehla kwentengo yezindwangu zikakotini, okuhlangene nentshisekelo yokumboza nokufihla, kukhulula abesifazane ku-crinoline, kepha kuyanezela ukuxokozela nokuhlala i-corset yenduku yomkhomo. Cishe ngonyaka ka-1881, izingubo zokugqoka zikanokusho zezintokazi zaseMexico zazenziwe ngezindwangu ezahlukahlukene, njenge-silika faya, futhi zihlotshiswe ngobuhlalu: “Abesifazane baphikisana nesinqe esincanyana, esitholwe ngama-corset aqinile kangangokuba baze baphefumula. Bazenze zaba buthakathaka, zaphikiswa ngobuningi bezintambo, ama-appliqués, ama-pleats, kanye nokufekethiswa. Owesifazane wangaleso sikhathi wayefunde futhi enyakaza ngokunembile futhi isibalo sakhe sigcwele imihlobiso kufanekisela ukuthandana ”.
Cishe ngonyaka we-1895, izindwangu ezahlukahlukene zanda ngosilika, ama-velvet, ama-satin, intambo yendabuko ekhombisa ukuzitika. Abesifazane bayasebenza kakhulu, ngokwesibonelo, ukwenza eminye imidlalo efana nethenisi, igalofu, ukuhamba ngebhayisikili nokubhukuda. Ngaphezu kwalokho, i-silhouette yesifazane iya ngokuya ihlanjululwa.
Lapho amavolumu amakhulu endwangu enyamalala, cishe ngo-1908 i-corset yayiqediwe, ngakho-ke ukuvela komzimba wesifazane kwaguqulwa kakhulu futhi ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20 izingubo zazibushelelezi futhi zikhululekile. Ukubukeka kwabesifazane kuguquka kakhulu futhi isimo sabo sengqondo esisha simemezela iminyaka yokuguqula ezayo.
Umthombo: IMexico ngesikhathi esingu-35 Mashi / Ephreli 2000
