Ngiyakumema ukuba uthathe uhambo lokucabanga ngeMexico City ehlonipheke kakhulu futhi eqotho njengoba kwenzeka ngekhulu le-18 nele-19. Njengoba sidlula sizothola yonke indawo ukuboniswa kwemibala nokwakheka kwizembatho zabakhileyo enhlokodolobha.
Ngokushesha sizoya ensimini, imigwaqo yangempela nemigwaqo eseceleni izosiyisa ekucabangeni ngamasimu ezifunda ezahlukahlukene, sizongena emadolobheni, ama-haciendas namarishi. Abesilisa nabesifazane, abasebancane, abangafundile, abalimi, abelusi noma abanikazi bomhlaba bagqoka izitayela zesiCreole, yize beya ngokobuhlanga babo, ubulili kanye nesimo senhlalo.
Lolu hambo lokucabanga luzoba khona ngenxa yababhali, abadwebi nabadwebi bekhathuni ababekwazi ukukuthwebula abakubona eMexico ngaleso sikhathi. UBaltasar de Echave, u-Ignacio Barreda, uVillaseñor, uLuis Juárez, uRodríguez Juárez, uJosé Páez noMiguel Cabrera bayingxenye yabaculi abaningi, abantu baseMexico nabokufika, ababonisa indlela yaseMexico, indlela yakhe yokuphila nokugqoka. Kepha masikhumbule olunye uhlobo lobuciko bendabuko, imidwebo yama-caste, ebingakhombisi nje kuphela abantu abadalwe yimixube yezinhlanga, kepha nemvelo, ingubo ngisho namagugu abebekugqokile.
Ngekhulu le-19, kushaqiswe umhlaba "ongajwayelekile" ochazwe nguBaron Humboldt, uWilliam Bullock noJoel. R. Poinsett, izihambi eziningi ezingenakubalwa zafika eMexico, phakathi kwazo iMarchioness Calderón de la Barca nabanye, abanjengoLinati, Egerton, Nevel, Pingret noRugendas abashintshana nabaseMexico i-Arrieta, Serrano, Castro, Cordero, Icaza kanye ne-Alfaro ukulangazelela ukuveza abaseMexico. Ababhali abadume njengoManuel Payno, uGuillermo Prieto, u-Ignacio Ramírez –el Nigromante–, uJosé Joaquín Fernandez de Lizardi futhi kamuva no-Artemio de Valle Arizpe basishiyela amakhasi abaluleke kakhulu ezenzakalo zansuku zonke zalezo zikhathi.
Ukubukwa kwe-Viceregal
Ake siye eMeya yePlaza ngeSonto ekuseni. Ngakolunye uhlangothi kuvela, ephelezelwa ngumndeni wakhe nethimba lakhe, uViceroy Francisco Fernández de la Cueva, uMbusi wase-Albuquerque. Enqoleni enhle evela eYurophu uza ukuzwa inqwaba eCathedral.
Azisekho amasudi amnyama asangulukile ngasekupheleni kwekhulu leshumi nesithupha okuwukuphela kokunethezeka okwakungamaruffle amhlophe. Namuhla imfashini yesitayela saseFrance yamaBourbon isekhona. Amadoda afaka ama-wigi amade, agobile futhi ayimpuphu, amajakhethi e-velvet noma ama-brocade, amakhola wezintambo zaseBelgium noma eFrance, amabhulukwe kasilika, amasokisi amhlophe, nezicathulo zesikhumba noma zendwangu ezinamabhakede amibalabala.
Izintokazi zekhulu leshumi nesishiyagalombili leminyaka zigqoka izingubo zikasilika noma ze-brocade ezinemigexo ekhonjisiwe neziketi ezibanzi, lapho kubekwa khona uhlaka lwamahuphu abizwa ngabo "guardainfante". Lezi zambatho eziyinkimbinkimbi zinezinto ezifakiwe, ezifekethisiwe, okufakwa ngentambo yegolide nesiliva, izihlahla ze-sitrobheli, amatshe ayizinsimbi, ubuhlalu, ama-sequin, namabhande kasilika. Izingane zigqoka okufana nemvunulo yabazali bazo nobucwebe. Imvunulo yezisebenzi, amakhasi nabaqeqeshi ziyabukeka ngendlela yokuthi zivusa uhleko kubantu abadlulayo.
Imindeni ecebile yamaCreole nemestizo ikopisha izingubo zasenkantolo yomthetho ukuze zizigqoke emicimbini. Impilo yezenhlalo inamandla kakhulu: ukudla, ukudla okulula, ubusuku bokubhala noma bomculo, ama-gala saraos nemikhosi yenkolo igcwalisa isikhathi sabesilisa nabesifazane. Abaculi baseCreole abakhona, hhayi ezembatho nobucwebe kuphela, kepha nakwizakhiwo, ezokuthutha, ubuciko ekubonakalisweni okuhlukahlukene nakuzo zonke izinto zansuku zonke. Abefundisi abaphezulu, amasosha, izifundiswa nabanye abaculi bayashintshana "nezicukuthwane" zona ezilinde izigqila, izinceku nezintokazi.
Emakilasini aphezulu ingubo iyashintsha nemicimbi. AbaseYurophu bayala imfashini, kepha amathonya ase-Asia nawomdabu aqinisekile, okuholela ezingubeni ezihlukile ezifana netshali, abacwaningi abaningi abathi liphefumulelwe yisaree yaseNdiya.
Isahluko esehlukile sifanele imikhiqizo yaseMpumalanga eza emikhunjini. Amasilika, ama-brocade, amagugu, abalandeli abavela eChina, Japan nasePhilippines amukelwa kabanzi. Usilika oqoshiwe weManila shawls onamajembe amade ubamba ngokulinganayo izakhamizi zaseNew Spain. Ngakho-ke siyabona ukuthi abesifazane baseZapotec base-Isthmus naseChiapas baphinde baklama ukwakhiwa kwamashali ezigqokweni zabo, ama-blouses kanye nama-huipiles.
Isigaba esiphakathi sigqoka izingubo ezilula. Abesifazane abasebasha bagqoka izingubo ezilula ezinemibala eqinile, kanti abesifazane asebekhulile nabafelokazi bagqoke imibala emnyama enezintamo eziphakeme, imikhono emide nemantilla ebanjwe ikama lofudu.
Kusukela maphakathi nekhulu le-18, imfashini ibikade ingenzi ihaba emadodeni, amawigi ayafinyezwa futhi amajakhethi noma amavesti asangulukile futhi mancane. Abesifazane bathanda izingubo eziwubukhazikhazi, kodwa manje iziketi azisabanzi kangako; Amawashi amabili asilenga okhalweni lwawo, elinye eliwuphawu lwesikhathi seSpain kanti elinye liphawula isikhathi saseMexico. Imvamisa bagqoka ufudu noma i-velvet “chiqueadores”, evame ukufakwa ngamaparele noma ngamatshe ayigugu.
Manje, ngaphansi kwegunya likaViceroy Conde de Revillagigedo, abathungi, abathungi, amabhulukwe, abathungi bezicathulo, izigqoko, njll., Sebevele bahlelekile baba izinyunyana ukulawula nokuvikela umsebenzi wabo, ngoba ingxenye enkulu yezingubo seyenziwe eNew ISpain. Ezindlini zezindela, izindelakazi zenza uleyisi, okufekethisiwe, ukuwasha, isitashi, isibhamu nensimbi, ngaphezu kwemihlobiso yenkolo, okokugqoka, okokugqoka kwasekhaya kanye nezembatho.
Isudi ikhomba noma ngubani oyigqokayo, ngenxa yalesi sizathu kukhishwe umyalo wasebukhosini ovimbela isigqoko ne-Cape, ngoba amadoda agcwele izimfene ngokuvamile angamadoda aziphethe kabi. Abamnyama bagqoka izingubo zikasilika ezeqisayo noma zikakotini, imikhono emide namabhande okhalweni kungokwesiko. Abesifazane baphinde bagqoke ama-turbans okwenza ihaba kangangokuba bathole igama lesidlaliso elithi "harlequins." Zonke izingubo zakhe zinemibala egqamile, ikakhulukazi ebomvu.
Imimoya yokuvuselela
Ngesikhathi sokukhanyiselwa, ekupheleni kwekhulu le-17, ngaphandle kwezinguquko ezinkulu kwezenhlalo, ezepolitiki nezomnotho iYurophu ezaqala ukubhekana nazo, izinduna zaqhubeka nokuphila impilo yemfucumfucu enkulu eyayizoba nomthelela esimweni esidumile phakathi ne-Independence. Umakhi uManuel Tolsá, owathi, phakathi kokunye, waqeda ukwakhiwa kwethempeli elikhulu laseMexico, uza egqoke imfashini yakamuva: ibhantshi elimhlophe elibhincikisiwe, ijakhethi yendwangu yoboya kanye nokusikwa okunesizotha. Izingubo zabesifazane zinamathonya eGoya, ziyabukeka, kepha zimnyama ngemibala enenqwaba yezihlahla zeleyisi nezitrobheli. Bemboza amahlombe abo noma ikhanda labo nge-mantilla yakudala. Manje izintokazi seziyize "ezingasho lutho", zibhema ngokuqhubekayo zize zifunde futhi zikhulume ngezombusazwe.
Eminyakeni eyikhulu kamuva, izithombe zabesifazane abasebancane ababezongena esigodlweni, ababonakala begqoke ngobukhazikhazi futhi benamagugu amaningi, nezindlalifa zamakhosi omdabu, nawo aziveze ngezinqulu ezihlotshiswe kakhulu, zihlala zingubufakazi bezingubo zabesifazane. ngendlela yaseSpain.
Imigwaqo ematasa kakhulu eMexico City yiPlateros neTacuba. Lapho, izitolo ezikhethekile zibonisa amasudi, izigqoko, amashidi nobucwebe obuvela eYurophu ezinhlangothini eziseceleni, kuyilapho “kumadilowa” noma “kumatafula” atholakala ohlangothini olulodwa lweNdlunkulu, kuthengiswa izindwangu zazo zonke izinhlobo nezintambo. EBaratillo, kungenzeka uthole izingubo ezingamasekeni ngamanani aphansi kulabo abampofu abaphakathi.
Ubudala bokuqina
Ekuqaleni kwekhulu le-19, izingubo zabesifazane zashintsha kakhulu. Ngaphansi kwethonya lenkathi kaNapoleon, izingubo zicishe ziqonde, zinezindwangu ezithambile, okhalweni oluphakeme nemikhono "yamabhaluni"; izinwele ezimfushane ziboshwe futhi ama-curls amancane ahlela ubuso. Ukumboza intamo ebanzi izintokazi zinezikhafu zezintambo nezikhafu, ezizibiza ngokuthi "modín". Ngo-1803, iBaron de Humboldt ifaka izitayela zakamuva zemfashini: ibhulukwe elide, ibhantshi elinjengesitayela samasosha nesigqoko sokubhowula esinomphetho obanzi. Manje izintambo zesudi yamadoda seziqonde kakhulu.
Ngempi yokuzibusa ka-1810 kufika izikhathi ezinzima lapho umoya wokumosha wangaphambilini ungenandawo. Mhlawumbe okuwukuphela kwento engumbuso wesikhashana ka-Agustín de Iturbide, ohambela ukugcotshwa kwakhe nge-ermine Cape kanye nomqhele ongenangqondo.
Amadoda anezinwele ezimfishane futhi agqoke amasudi anzima, amabhantshi omsila noma amajazi amafraki anebhulukwe loboya obumnyama. Amashirt amhlophe, anentamo ephakeme eqedwe ngeminsalo noma ngo-plastrones (othayi abanzi). Madoda aziqhenyayo anentshebe namadevu afaka isigqoko sotshani nenduku. Yile ndlela abalingiswa beNguquko abagqoka ngayo, yile ndlela uBenito Juárez noLerdos de Tejada abaziveza ngayo.
Kwabesifazane, inkathi yothando iyaqala: izingubo ezigqokwa ngosilika obanzi, iziketi ze-taffeta noma zikakotini zibuyile. Izinwele eziqoqwe ku-bun zithandwa njengama-shawls, shawls, shawls kanye nezikhafu. Zonke izintokazi zifuna isithandwa nesambulela. Le yimfashini yabesifazane kakhulu, yinhle, kepha noma kunjalo ingenakho ukubabaza okukhulu. Kepha isizotha asihlali isikhathi eside. Ngokufika kukaMaximiliano noCarlota, amasara nokubukiswa kuyabuya.
"Abantu" kanye nemfashini yayo engaphelelwa isikhathi
Manje sesihambela imigwaqo nezimakethe ukuze sisondele “kubantu bedolobha”. Amadoda afaka amabhulukwe amafushane noma amade, kepha akukho ukushoda kwabantu abazemboza ngentambo kuphela, kanye namahembe alula nezingubo zokulala ezimhlophe, futhi labo abangahambi bengenazicathulo bagqoka ama-huaraki noma amabhuzu. Uma umnotho wabo ukuvumela, bagqoka ama-jumpers oboya noma ama-sarape anemiklamo ehlukene kuye ngesifunda abasuka kuso. Izigqoko zePetate, ezizwayo kanye "nezimbongolo zembongolo" zigcwele.
Abanye besifazane bagqoka okujiywayo –ingcezu engunxande elukiwe ku-loom eboshelwe okhalweni ngebhande noma ibhande–, abanye bakhetha isiketi esiqondile esenziwe ngengubo eyenziwe ngezandla noma nge-twill, nayo eboshwe ngebhande, iblawuzi le-neckline eliyindilinga nomkhono “webhaluni”. Cishe bonke bagqoke amathawula ekhanda, emahlombe, awele esifubeni noma emhlane, ukuthwala ingane.
Ngaphansi kwesiketi bagqoka isiketi sikakotini noma ezansi esikwe nge-hook work noma i-bobbin lace. Zenziwe ngesitayela ngokuhlukaniswa phakathi nendawo nama-braids (ezinhlangothini noma ngasekhanda) okuphela ngamaribhoni anombala obukekayo. Ukusetshenziswa kwama-huipiles afekethisiwe noma afekethisiwe abagqoka okuxekethile, ngendlela yangaphambi kweSpanishi, kusesejwayelekile kakhulu. Abesifazane bangama-brunette anezinwele namehlo amnyama, bahlukaniswa ukuhlanzeka kwabo siqu namacici abo amakhulu nemigexo eyenziwe ngama-coral, isiliva, ubuhlalu, amatshe noma imbewu. Bazenzela izingubo zabo.
Emaphandleni, imvunulo yamadoda iguqulwe ngokuhamba kwesikhathi: imvunulo yomdabu elula iguqulwa ibe yingubo yasemapulazini yamabhulukwe amade anama-chaps noma ama-suede breeches, ihembe lokulala kanye nemikhono ebanzi nendwangu emfushane noma ibhantshi le-suede. Phakathi kwezinto eziphawuleka kakhulu kukhona ezinye izinkinobho zesiliva namaribhoni ahlobisa imvunulo, nayo eyenziwe ngesikhumba noma ngesiliva.
Ama-caporales afaka ama-chaparera nama-suede cotonas, afanele ukumelana nemisebenzi enzima yezwe. Amabhuzu esikhumba anezintambo kanye ne-petate, isoya noma isigqoko sesikhumba - okuhlukile esifundeni ngasinye- qedela ingubo yendoda yasemakhaya ekhuthele. AbakwaChinaco, onogada basemaphandleni abadumile bekhulu leshumi nesishiyagalolunye, bagqoka le ngubo, isichasiso ngqo semvunulo ye-charro, edume umhlaba wonke kanye nophawu lwendoda "eyiMexico eyiqiniso".
Ngokuvamile, ukugqoka "kwabantu", amakilasi anamalungelo amancane, kushintshe kancane kakhulu emakhulwini eminyaka edlule futhi nezingubo okuvela imvelaphi yazo elahlekile ngesikhathi zisindile. Kwezinye izifunda zaseMexico bayaqhubeka nokusebenzisa izingubo zangaphambi kweSpanishi noma ngezindlela ezithile ezibekwe yiColony. Kwezinye izindawo, uma kungenjalo nsuku zonke, zigqokwa emikhosini yezenkolo, yezomphakathi neyenhlalo. Ziyizembatho ezenziwe ngezandla, zokucaca okuyinkimbinkimbi nobuhle obukhulu obuyingxenye yobuciko obudumile futhi ezakha umthombo wokuziqhenya, hhayi kuphela kulabo abazigqokayo, kodwa wabo bonke abantu baseMexico.
Umthombo: México en el Tiempo No. 35 Mashi / Ephreli 2000
