Cishe kwadlula iminyaka engama-300, ngemuva kokufa kwakhe (ngo-1695), ukuze sijabulele le ncwadi, ukukhethwa nokubhalwa kwayo okwenziwa nguSor Juana Inés de la Cruz, udumo lwethalente laseNew Spain.
Ngibonga intshisekelo yesazi don UJoaquin Cortina nakudokotela UJorge Gurría Lacroix izinto ezibalulekile zamadokhumentari zasindiswa zagcinwa eMexico, enye yazo yileso esikhathazayo. Siyithola ngokubolekwa esifundweni sakho eseceleni UJosefina Muriel nokuthi kubhala bani lokhu.
Ngokwemvelo besikuthanda kakhulu ukutadisha kwayo, futhi noma ukufundwa kwayo kungalethi nkinga, senze i-paleography futhi sazuza ngokushicilelwa kwayo ngokucophelela, kokuklanywa kwakudala kufomethi efanayo yencwajana eyethulwa okokuqala. Le ncwadi yenza Sor Juana "Ngezindleko zakhe" njengoba izigaba zakudala bezizosho.
Isingeniso sikaDkt. Muriel kanye ne-epilogue yokubhalwa kwami kwanezelwa embhalweni, ngendlela engizinikele ngayo kothisha bami uMona noFelipe Teixidor, amadoda ahlakaniphile kanye nama-gourmets. UDkt Muriel usitshela embhalweni wakhe:
"Okuhlangenwe nakho kwakhe kwaleli ndela elihloniphekile kumenyezelwe yedwa ekuphenduleni kwakhe kuDade Filotea, ethi" Hhayi, ngingakutshela ukuthini, Ntokazi, ngezimfihlo zemvelo engizitholile ngenkathi ngipheka? Bona ukuthi iqanda lijoyina futhi lithose ibhotela noma uwoyela futhi, kunalokho, lihlukane nesiraphu; bona ukuthi ukuze ushukela uhlale uketshezi kwanele ukwengeza ingxenye encane kakhulu yamanzi lapho iquince noma esinye isithelo esimuncu bekukhona; bona ukuthi isikhuphasha nomhlophe weqanda elifanayo kuphambene kakhulu, ukuze kwezinye, ezisetshenziselwa ushukela, ngalinye lizisebenzela ngokwalo hhayi ndawonye. "
Ubuye asitshele ngokubheka okupheka okuholela eSor Juana ekuzindleni nge-physics yokuhlola, kepha ngasikhathi sinye usikhombisa ukujwayela kwakhe ukupheka.
Okusho ukuthi, ukulungiswa kwezitsha ezahlukahlukene akuyona into engaziwa kuye, kepha imicabango yakhe ayihlali kubo. Izenzo ezilula kakhulu zokwenza ukudla zidonsela kulokho "kucatshangelwa kwesibili" kwezinto, okuwumbono wefilosofi. Ungowesifazane wesikhathi sakhe, ngakho-ke ngokuzithoba okusobala nokuhlekisayo uthi: "Kodwa, Nkosikazi, yini abesifazane abangayazi ngaphandle kwamafilosofi ngokupheka?"
USor Juana unikezela le ncwadi komunye wodadewabo, kwi-sonnet (ngokuqinisekile akuyona enye yezinto ezinhle kakhulu) eqala:
"Igcwele, awu dade wokuzithanda kwami." Ngizibheka njengokwakha lo mbhalo we Incwadi Yokupheka nobuphi ubuhlanya! ngikuqede, ngabe sengibona ukuthi ngikopisha kabi kangakanani.
Ku-epilogue yami, "Philosophy of kitchens", ngihlaziya incwadi yokupheka kanjena:
Ukuvalwa kwephukile, ngandlela thile uSor Juana usizuza njengefa umbono womhlaba wakhe we-mestizo, ongowalowo Mbuso waseSpain owahlanganisa iMelika ngokushaya ngenkemba nangemikhuleko.
Izwe le-mestizo lapho ubukhona baseYurophu bunikezwa hhayi kuphela "amaqhude asePutukezi", kepha futhi "ngama-gigotes" (asuka "ethangeni" lesiFulentshi), izitsha zalo zokuqala zombili amabele we-capon noma imilenze ye-veal yagcina iyinyama ejwayelekile ngezicucu ezincane. Izwe lama-mestizo lapho ama-Hispanics ayethwala khona i- “globulus” yaseRoma phakathi kweminikelo eyinkulungwane, i- “puñuelos” eyenziwe ngesibhakela esivaliwe, embozwe ngamazinyo okokuthanda iMozarabic nenjabulo yesimanje, yaguqulwa yaba amadonathi amnandi. Umhlaba lapho amaBrithani "ama-puddings" ahlubula khona ama-prosopopeya awo, aba yi-purines yesipinashi, i-pigweed noma i-quelites.
Futhi iTurk, isitha sakudala seLobukholwa, izokhunjulwa ngokusetshenziswa ngokweqile kwamantongomane kaphayini, ama-walnuts, omisiwe nama-acitron, exutshwe nommbila, irayisi, inyama, nokubunjwa njengoba nje abantu bomdabu babecabanga ukuthi abaseTurkey bazobumba amabhonethi abo. ; kepha angazi ngemvelaphi ye "pilaf" eshaya ikhekhe lelayisi nase-alfajores.
Umhlaba umuhle ngokwedlulele, konke ukupheka kwawo - okungaphansi kweshumi - kwenzelwa ophudingi, futhi phakathi kwawo kukhona i-jericaya noma i-jiricaya, igama eliseshwe ngokungenamsebenzi kuzichazamazwi ezifanele zaseCovarrubias neziphathimandla, ukulithola ekugcineni, kucace kulokho AmaMexico aseSanta María nokuthi isetshenziswa endaweni ebanzi kangangokuba ihlanganisa iCosta Rica.
Ngokwesiko likakolweni, izinkwa kanye namaswidi, isisekelo sakho konke okuhle "i-ante", iNew Spain izokwengeza konke ukuboniswa "kophudingi abalenga ezihlahleni" njenge I-Marchioness Calderón de la Barca Uchaze ama-mameyes, umango, ama-chicozapotes nama-Anonas Nuricata noma amakhanda amnyama, i-soursop emnandi.
Umhlaba lapho ubukhona bomdabu obuthandeka kakhulu kuSor Juana buqokonyiswa nguye ngayo yonke imininingwane, ngemininingwane eqondile. Kungukubuyela esimeni sobuntwana bakhe, ukweqa kwakhe "ekhishini lentuthu" le-hacienda, ukubuka ukubambeka ekufakeni "i-nixcoma". Kuzindlela zokupheka "omama" be-substrate yendabuko: imvukuzane evela e-Oaxaca kanye nesitshulu esimnyama. IManchamanteles manje isiyifomula ye-mestizo evela eNew Spain.
Ulimi lwamasiko omdabu ngokufaka kwawo, imikhuba yawo yokupheka kanye nezinqubo ezikhethekile, okukhona namuhla ngesihlungo sesikhathi okungabonakali.
Sengivala, ake ngingeze lokho Sor Juana Kukhombisa ngokusobala lokho engikucabangayo emcabangweni wami we-gastronomy yaseMexico izinhlobo ezimbili zakudala: ama-dessert amasha ase-Hispanic, i- "before" ne "cartas", lapho izindlela zakhe zokuqala echaza khona ngokusetshenziswa kweladi lesiliva - okusho ukuthi, izimfihlo ezincane Benza ukupheka ubuciko, nezitshulu, ama-moles ashisayo angama-clemoles, kusuka ku-tetlomole mhlawumbe ukuwahlukanisa nezinsumpa nososo obandayo.
Ngijoyina uSor Juana enjabulweni yokwabelana "ngemisebenzi" yakhe yokudla, ngomqondo ophelele wokuthi ukupheka kuba isenzo sothando lwansuku zonke, futhi ngimema abafundi ukuthi benze okufanayo zokupheka afakiwe ngezansi:
Ama-fritters eshizi
Ushizi omusha ongu-6, iphawundi kafulawa, ibhotela eliphakathi, elicibilikile noshizi womhlabathi. Zicwecwe ngemuva kokuxojwa kahle ngophini ogingqikayo, zisikwe ngenkomishi bese zithosiwe.
ISuede yamakhanda amnyama amancane
Iqiniso lamakhanda amancane, i-idem yobisi, ikhilogremu likashukela, uhhafu wamanzi aqhakaza amawolintshi, yonke into ihlangene iyabiliswa ize igcwale. Bafaka izingqimba ze-sucker nale pasta. Kuhlotshiswe njengazo zonke lezi ngaphambili.
I-Beet suede
Kuphekwe ama-beet ngocezu lukashukela, oluhlutshiwe noluphansi. Kuyiphawundi yama-beet id. ushukela uphonswa kusiraphu ongagudluki kakhulu futhi wenziwa ngendlela efanayo.
UJericaya
Ubisi olubilisiwe lunoshukela. Enkomishini yobisi, izikhupha ezi-4, ugovuze uthele enkomishini, ubilise emanzini ngekhomali ngaphezulu, futhi ukuze wazi ukuthi ngabe kunjalo, beka utshani buphume buhlanzekile. Bese ufaka isinamoni.
Ilayisi ikhekhe
Yenza irayisi ngobisi, ngoba muhle, beka eceleni bese usakaza i-casserole nebhotela bese uthela uhhafu welayisi ku-casserole ebandayo, i-mince isivele ilungisiwe sengathi izogcwalisa utamatisi, ithiphu elimnandi, omisiwe, ama-alimondi , amantongomane kaphayini, i-acitron kanye ne-capers bese ufaka enye ingxenye yelayisi bese uyifaka kwizibhulisi ezimbili bese usakaza ibhotela ngaphezulu ngezinye izimpaphe ukuze iphekwe, iyasuswa.
Ummbila waseTurkey cacaguazintle
Beka ummbila njenge-niscomil (sic), bese uyagezwa, usikwe futhi ugaywe njengama-tamales, ushukela ovuthayo, ushukela nezikhupha ozifunayo, inqobo nje uma ziningi; Ine-mincemeat enamagilebhisi omisiwe, ama-alimondi, i-acitrón, amantongomane ephayini, ama-capers, iqanda elibilisiwe kanye nethiphu elimnandi. Ingumhlabathi njengama-tortilla we-metate futhi ingezwa epanini eligcotshiswe ibhotela. Ngemuva kwenyama egayiwe bese ufaka olunye ungqimba bese ufaka izitofu ezimbili, ugcobe ibhotela ngezinye izimpaphe bese upheka, engeza ushukela oluyimpuphu bese ulubeka eceleni.
Clemole wase-Oaxaca
Kwi-casserole emaphakathi, idlanzana le-cilantro ethosiwe, ama-clove ka-garlic amane agosiwe, ama-clove amahlanu, ama-peppercorns ayisithupha, njenge-clove yesinamoni, i-ancho chiles noma ama-pasillas, njengoba uthanda, yonke into ishiwo kahle kakhulu futhi iyathosa Bese kufakwa inyama yengulube, i-chorizo nenyama yenkukhu.
Ilayisi ikhekhe
Irayisi liphekwe nge-napkin, ukuze liphekwe, kufakwe isafron sengathi kuzodliwa. Inyama egayiwe izokwenziwa ngamagilebhisi omisiwe, ama-capers, ama-alimondi, amantongomane ephayini, iqanda elibilisiwe, iminqumo, ama-chilitos. I-casserole igcotshwa ibhotela bese kuthi uhhafu welayisi ungezwe ngaphansi bese kuthi i-mincemeat bese kuthi enye ingxenye yelayisi noshukela ogayiwe ngaphezulu bese ufaka izitofu ezimbili.
Isitshulu esimnyama
Ezingxenyeni ezilinganayo zamanzi noviniga, uzopheka inyama, bese ugaya utamatisi, isinamoni, ama-clove, upelepele bese uthosa ngezingcezu zika-anyanisi noparsley, kukhululeke impela, ngakho-ke i-caldillo yenziwe, isafron yayo, i-suve (sic) njenge-capirotada eya ekapa.
Ukuthamba kwesipinashi
Ama-reales amabili ka-Ieche namaqebelengwane amabili ama-mamon de reales nengxenye namaqanda ayishumi nambili. Faka izikhupha, amabhotela amane namakhilogremu amabili kashukela. Isipinashi sigayiwe futhi sihluziwe ubisi futhi konke lokhu kuphekwa ndawonye futhi kuyaphekwa futhi ngomlilo ubheke phansi naphansi, ngemuva kokupheka kubekelwa eceleni kupholiswe epuletini.
Isethi yeGigote
Chop and gigote the hen and season with all spices, uzobe ubeka izingcezu zesinkwa sethosi epanini eligcotshiswe ibhotela ukuze kufakwe ungqimba lwezingcezu, kufafazwe ngewayini, bese ufaka olunye ukhilimu wobisi isinamoni efafazwe ngaphezulu nama-clove nopelepele; bese kuba esinye isendlalelo sesinkwa, uqhubeke wenze okufanayo uze ugcwalise i-casserole, ozoyiphetha ngezingcezu, khona-ke uzofaka wonke umhluzi owawusele ku-gigote, ufaka ungqimba lwezikhupha zamaqanda ezishayiwe ngaphezulu.
Manchamanteles
Upelepele we-Chili ususwe futhi wagcotshwa ubusuku bonke, ugaywe ngezinhlamvu zesame ezigcotshwe uthosiwe konke ngebhotela, uzofaka amanzi adingekayo, inkukhu, izingcezu zikabhanana, ubhatata, i-apula nosawoti odingekayo.
Amaqhude amaPutukezi
Thatha utamatisi, iparsley, i-peppermint negalikhi, usike bese uviniga owanele, uwoyela nazo zonke izinhlobo zezinongo, ngaphandle kwesafron, bese ufaka amaqhude nezicucu zawo zokupheka zimbozwe kahle ngakho-ke ziyaphekwa, engeza i-tornachiles, iminqumo, i-capers futhi capers.
