Leli qembu elincane elihlala phakathi kwemingcele ye-Oaxaca neGuerrero lidonsela ukunakekela emandleni eligcina ngalo amasiko alo. Ekuboneni kokuqala, izingubo ezinhle ezibahlukanisayo ziyagqama.
Izindawo ezihlaba umxhwele zezintaba zibamangaza kahle labo abanquma ukungena eMixteca. Imibala ehlukahlukene kakhulu ihlanganisiwe: ukuhlukahluka okuningi kokuluhlaza, okuphuzi, okunsundu, kweterracotta; kanti okuluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, lapho kuvakashelwe abamhlophe, kumemezela imvula enondla sonke isifunda. Lobu buhle obubonakalayo yisipho sokuqala izivakashi ezihlonishwa ngaso.
Siqonde ngaseSantiago Pinotepa Nacional; engxenyeni ephakeme kakhulu ye-sierra kunamadolobha aseTlaxiaco nasePutla, amasango emiphakathi eminingi yaseMixtec naseTriqui. Siqhubeka nomzila wethu wehlela ngasogwini, amakhilomitha ambalwa ngaphambi kokufika kuwo sifika eSan Pedro Amuzgos, ngolimi lwayo lokuqala ibizwa ngeTzjon Non (futhi ebhalwe njengeTajon Noan) futhi okusho ukuthi "idolobha lezintambo": kuyisihlalo sikamasipala wase-Amuzga uhlangothi lwe-Oaxaca.
Lapho, njengasezindaweni esasizovakashela kuzo kamuva, samangazwa yizicukuthwane zabantu bakhona, amandla abo nokuphathwa kahle. Njengoba sihamba emigwaqweni yakhona, sifika kwesinye sezikole ezine ezikhona lapho; Sithintekile yindlela inqwaba yamantombazane nabafana, phakathi kokuhleka nemidlalo, ababambe iqhaza ngayo ekwakhiweni kwekilasi elisha; Umsebenzi wakhe wawuhlanganisa ukuhambisa amanzi ale ngxube, ezikebheni ngokobukhulu bomuntu ngamunye. Omunye wothisha wasichazela ukuthi babevame ukuphatha imisebenzi esindayo noma eyinkimbinkimbi phakathi kwabo bonke abenziwa ngumphakathi; kulokhu umsebenzi wabancane wawubalulekile, njengoba beletha amanzi emfuleni omncane. "Kusekhona futhi siwanakekela kakhulu amanzi," esitshele. Ngenkathi abancane bezijabulisa ngomsebenzi wabo wesikole futhi benza imincintiswano yejubane, othisha nabanye babazali bezingane benza imisebenzi eyenzelwe ukwakha ingxenye entsha yesikole. Ngakho-ke, wonke umuntu usebenzisana emsebenzini obalulekile futhi "kubo bathakaselwa kakhulu", kusho uthisha. Isiko lokwenza umsebenzi ngokuhlanganyela ukufeza inhloso efanayo livame kakhulu e-Oaxaca; esiqhingini sendawo yaziwa ngokuthi i-guelaguetza, kanti kwiMixteca bayibiza ngokuthi i-tequio.
Ama-Amuzgos noma ama-Amochco angabantu abahlukile. Yize amaMixtec, ahlobene nawo, ethonywe omakhelwane bawo, amasiko abo nolimi lwabo kusasebenza futhi kwezinye izici kuqinisiwe. Ziyaziwa esifundeni saseLower Mixtec nasogwini ngolwazi lwazo lwezitshalo zasendle ezisetshenziswa ekwelapheni, kanye nangokuthuthuka okukhulu okutholakala emithini yendabuko, lapho zizethemba khona kakhulu, ngoba ziqinisekisa ukuthi kusebenza kakhulu.
Ukufunda kabanzi ngaleli dolobha, sizama ukusondela emlandweni walo: sithole ukuthi igama elithi amuzgo livela egameni elithi amoxco (elivela ku-Nahuatl amoxtli, book, and co, locative); ngakho-ke, amuzgo angasho ukuthi: "indawo yezincwadi".
Ngokwezinkomba zezenhlalo nezomnotho zokubalwa kwabantu okwenziwa yi-INI ngo-1993, lesi sizwe sakhiwa ama-Amuzgos angama-23,456 esifundazweni saseGuerrero nabangu-4 217 e-Oaxaca, bonke abakhuluma ulimi lwabo lwendabuko. Kuphela ku-Ometepec lapho iSpanishi ikhuluma ngaphezu kuka-Amuzgo; Kweminye imiphakathi, izakhamuzi zikhuluma ulimi lwazo futhi bambalwa abantu abakhuluma kahle iSpanishi.
Kamuva siqhubeka sibheke eSantiago Pinotepa Nacional futhi ukusuka lapho sithatha umgwaqo oya ethekwini lase-Acapulco, sifuna ukuphambuka okuya e-Ometepec, idolobha elikhulu kunawo wonke lase-Amuzgo. Inezici zedolobha elincane, kunamahhotela nezindawo zokudlela eziningi, futhi kuyindawo yokuphumula okuyisibopho ngaphambi kokukhuphukela ezintabeni ohlangothini lwaseGuerrero. Sivakashela imakethe yangeSonto, lapho bevela khona emiphakathini ekude kakhulu ye-Amuzga ukuthengisa noma ukushintshisana ngemikhiqizo yabo futhi bathole abakudingayo abakuse ekhaya. I-Ometepec ikakhulu i-mestizo futhi inabantu abaningi be-mulatto.
Ekuseni kakhulu salibangisa ezintabeni. Inhloso yethu bekuwukufinyelela emiphakathini yaseXochistlahuaca. Usuku beluphelele: kucacile, futhi kusukela ekuqaleni ukushisa bezwakala. Umgwaqo wawulungile uze ufike eqophelweni; lapho-ke kwakungathi kubumba. Komunye wemiphakathi yokuqala sithola udwendwe. Sibuze ukuthi siyini isizathu base besitshela ukuthi bathathe iSan Agustín bayomcela ukuba anethise imvula, ngoba isomiso sasibalimaza kakhulu. Kungaleso sikhathi kuphela lapho sathola khona isimanga sokufuna ukwazi: phezulu ezintabeni sasiyibonile imvula, kodwa endaweni esogwini nokunciphisa ukushisa kwakucindezela futhi empeleni kwakungekho phawu lokuthi amanye amanzi ayezokuwa. Kulolu hambo, amadoda abesenkabeni aphethe usanta, kanti abesifazane, okungabaningi, bebakha uhlobo lokuphelezelwa, ngamunye ephethe isixha sezimbali ezandleni zakhe, bakhuleka bacula e-Amuzgo.
Kamuva sithola umngcwabo. Amadoda omphakathi ngokuthula nangokuthula akhipha amabhokisi futhi asicela ukuthi singazithathi izithombe. Bahambe kancane beqonde kuningi futhi bakhombisa ukuthi asikwazi ukubaphelezela; sabona ukuthi iqembu lamantombazane lalilinde ukufika kodwendwe olunezimbali zezimbali ezifana nalezo esazibona kulolo hambo. Bangene ngaphambili iqembu lihle ngomhosha.
Yize ama-Amuzgo iningi lawo lingamaKhatholika, ahlanganisa imikhuba yawo yenkolo nemicikilisho yemvelaphi yangaphambi kweSpanishi enikezelwe kakhulu kwezolimo; Benza imithandazo yokuthola isivuno esiningi futhi bacele ukuvikelwa kwemvelo, imihosha, imifula, izintaba, imvula, yebo inkosi yelanga nokunye ukubonakaliswa kwemvelo.
Lapho sifika eXochistlahuaca, sathola idolobha elihle elinezindlu ezimhlophe nophahla lwamathayela abomvu. Sasimangazwa inhlanzeko engenakulinganiswa yemigwaqo yaso enezintambo nemigwaqo eseceleni. Ngenkathi sihamba ngabo, sazi indawo yokusebenzela efekethisiwe neyokuphotha eqondiswe ngu-Evangelina, okhuluma iSpanishi esithile ngakho-ke ungummeleli futhi ophethe ukunakekela izivakashi ezazi umsebenzi abazenzayo lapho.
Sihlanganyela no-Evangelina nezinye izintokazi ngenkathi besebenza; Basitshele ukuthi bayenza kanjani yonke le nqubo, kusukela ekufaka amakhadi entambo, ukweluka indwangu, ukwenza ingubo nokugcina beyifakile ngokunambitheka okuhle nobunono obubonakala kubo, ikhono elidluliselwa komama liye emadodakazini, ezizukulwaneni ngezizukulwane.
Sivakashela imakethe futhi sihleka no-elcuetero, umlingiswa ohamba emadolobheni akule ndawo ethwele okubalulekile emikhosini. Siphinde sakhuluma nomthengisi wentambo, obaletha bevela komunye umphakathi okude kakhulu, wabesifazane abangafuni noma abakwazi ukukhiqiza imicu yabo yokuhlobisa.
Umsebenzi omkhulu wezomnotho wabantu base-Amuzgo ezolimo, ezibavumela kuphela impilo enesizotha, njengemiphakathi eminingi emincane yezolimo ezweni lethu. Izilimo zayo ezinkulu yilezi: ummbila, ubhontshisi, upelepele, amakinati, isikwashi, ubhatata, umoba, i-hibiscus, utamatisi nokunye okungabalulekile kangako. Zinezinhlobonhlobo eziningi zezihlahla zezithelo, phakathi kwazo okume umango, izihlahla ezingamawolintshi, upopo, amakhabe namaphayinaphu. Futhi bazinikele ekufuyeni izinkomo, izingulube, izimbuzi namahhashi, kanye nezinkukhu kanye nokuqoqa uju. Emiphakathini yase-Amuzga, kujwayelekile ukubona abesifazane bethwele amabhakede emakhanda abo, lapho bephethe izinto abazithengile noma imikhiqizo abayithengisayo, yize ukushintshana kuvame kakhulu kubo kunokushintshisana ngemali.
Ama-Amuzgos ahlala engxenyeni engezansi yeSierra Madre del Sur, emngceleni wamazwe aseGuerrero nase-Oaxaca. Isimo sezulu esifundeni sakho sifudumele futhi silawulwa yizinhlelo zomswakama ezivela oLwandlekazi iPacific. Kujwayelekile endaweni ukubona inhlabathi ebomvu, ngenxa yezinga eliphezulu le-oxidation abalivezayo.
Imiphakathi emikhulu yama-Amuzga eGuerrero yile: Ometepec, Igualapa, Xochistlahuaca, Tlacoachistlahuaca naseCosuyoapan; futhi esifundazweni sase-Oaxaca: iSan Pedro Amuzguso neSan Juan Cacahuatepec. Bahlala ebangeni eliphakathi kwamamitha ayi-500 ngaphezu kogu lolwandle, lapho iSan Pedro Amuzgos itholakala khona, endaweni ephakeme ngamamitha ayi-900, ezindaweni ezimangelengele kakhulu zengxenye enezintaba lapho bahlala khona. Le ntaba ibizwa ngokuthi iSierra de Yucoyagua, ehlukanisa imicengezi eyakhiwe yimifula i-Ometepec neLa Arena.
Omunye wemisebenzi yabo ebaluleke kakhulu, njengoba sikwazile ukuvumelana ohambweni lwethu, wenziwa ngabesifazane: sibhekisa ezingutsheni ezinhle ezifekethisiwe abazenzela ukuzisebenzisela zona futhi abazithengisela eminye imiphakathi - yize behola kancane kuzo, Njengoba, njengoba besho, ukufekethiswa kwezandla "kuyakhandla kakhulu" futhi abakwazi ukukhokhisa amanani abiza ngempela, ngoba abiza kakhulu futhi abakwazanga ukuwathengisa. Izindawo lapho iningi lezingubo nezingubo zenziwe khona yiXochistlahuaca neSan Pedro Amuzgos. Amantombazane, amantombazane, abantu abasha kanye nezalukazi bagqoka imvunulo yabo yendabuko nsuku zonke futhi ngokuziqhenya okukhulu.
Ukuhamba kuleyo migwaqo yomhlaba obomvu, unezindlu ezimhlophe ezinophahla olubomvu nohlaza oluningi, uphendula ukubingelelwa kwawo wonke umuntu odlulayo, unentelezi emnandi kithina esihlala edolobheni maelstrom; Kusithuthela ezikhathini zasendulo lapho, njengoba kwenzeka lapho, umuntu wayevame ukuba nobuntu futhi enobungane.
LOS AMUZGOS: UMCULO WABO NOMDANISO WABO
Ngaphakathi kwamasiko e-Oaxacan, imidanso eminingi nemidanso eyenziwayo ivelele ngesitembu esikhethekile, kungaba semicimbini ethile yomphakathi noma lapho kugujwa khona umkhosi wesonto. Umqondo wesiko, wemikhosi engokwenkolo umuntu asungule umdanso kuyo kusukela ezikhathini zasendulo, yilokho okwazisa futhi kuvuselele umoya wobuciko bomdabu.
Imidanso yabo ithatha isithombe sokhokho, esizuzwe ngemikhuba iColony ebingakwazi ukuyichitha.
Cishe kuzo zonke izifunda zombuso, imiboniso yomdanso iveza izici ezahlukahlukene futhi “nomdanso wengwe” owenziwa yiPutla Amuzgos nawo awunjalo. Kuyasinwa kucwiywa futhi kubonakala sengathi kugqugquzelwe indlela yokuzingela, njengoba kungabonakala ekuhlukumezeni inja nejaguar, emelwe "ngamagechisi" agqoka imvunulo yalezi zilwane. Umculo uyingxube yemisindo yasogwini kanye nezingcezu zoqobo ezifanele ezinye izinyathelo: ngaphezu kwama-zapateados kanye nokuphikisana kwendodana, inezinguquko ezihlukile, njengokuzamazama okuhamba phambili nokugoba phambili kwesiqu, okwenziwa ngabadansi ngezandla zabo. ibekwe okhalweni, ukuziphendulela okuphelele, kulesi sikhundla, nokuhamba phambili kwe-agile phambili okugoba, ngesimo sokungathi kungashanela umhlabathi ngamaduku abawaphethe ngesandla sokudla. Abadansi bagcwala ekugcineni kwesigaba ngasinye somdanso.
Ukuba khona kwesifundo esisodwa noma ezimbili ezingutsheni ezixakile kuvamile. Bangama- "güenches" noma "amasimu", abaphethe ukujabulisa umphakathi ngamahlaya abo kanye nobugovu. Ngokuqondene nokuhambisana komculo kwemidanso, kusetshenziswa ama-ensembles ahlukahlukene: intambo noma umoya, i-violin elula ne-jarana noma, njengoba kwenzeka kweminye imidanso yaseVillaltec, izinsimbi ezindala kakhulu, njenge-shawm. Iqoqo le-Yatzona lama-chirimiteros lijabulela udumo olufanelwe kuso sonke isifunda.
UMA UYA ESAN PEDRO AMUZGOS
Uma usuka e-Oaxaca ubheke e-Huajuapan de León ku-Highway 190, 31 km phambi kwe-Nochixtlán uzothola umgwaqo no-Highway 125 ohlanganisa ithafa nogu; Qonda ngaseningizimu ubheke eSantiago Pinotepa Nacional, bese kuthi ngamakhilomitha angama-40 ukuya kulelo dolobha, sizothola idolobha laseSan Pedro Amuzgos, e-Oaxaca.
Kepha uma ufuna ukufika e-Ometepec (Guerrero) futhi use-Acapulco, cishe ngamakhilomitha angama-225, thatha umgwaqo omkhulu u-200 uye empumalanga futhi uzothola ukuchezuka kwamakhilomitha ayi-15 ukusuka ebhulohweni elingaphezu komfula iQuetzala; ngakho-ke izofika emadolobheni amakhulu ase-Amuzgo.
Umthombo: IMexico engaziwa engu-251 / Januwari 1998
