Funda lo mlando othakazelisayo wohambo oluya e-Espinazo del Diablo, eSierra Madre Occidental, eDurango.
Noma nini lapho othile ephinda le nkulumo "Espinazo del Diablo" phakathi nengxoxo, besazi ukuthi indaba izoqala lapho ubungozi bucacisiwe khona, ukuzijabulisa nenjabulo. Maduze nje bengizobhekana nenkinga yokuthi ngiyohlangana naye lapho umshayeli webhasi enodlame ebuza abagibeli ukuthi: "Ngabe nifuna ukwehla nihambe noma ngidlule i-Devil's Spine nami."
Sasikhona engxenyeni ephezulu futhi eyingozi kakhulu ngokuthi yini kuleyo minyaka kwakusekhona igebe elasuka ethekwini eliqhakazile laseMazatlán laya edolobheni laseDurango. Ngiyakhumbula ukuthi umama wangitshela, ngalolo luhlaza olusenyakatho olwalumchaza njalo: "Unganyakazi, vumela ama-collones akho ehle." Saqhubeka, igebe lancipha, eceleni komgwaqo abagibeli babheka emafasiteleni babambelela ezintanjeni zezihlalo zabo. Umsindo wenjini waba yizindlebe, izintokazi zaziwela zaze zabamba iSichotho uMariya ngemilomo yazo. Ibhasi linikeze ukudonsa kokugcina, umzimba waqhaqhazela, ngacabanga ngaleso sikhathi ukuthi thina sasiya eweni… Kodwa ekugcineni sahamba futhi emuva kwamakhilomitha ambalwa safika ethafeni elincane. Ilanga lase liqala ukushona.
Umshayeli umemezile: "Sesifikile edolobheni, sizophumula imizuzu embalwa." Siphume elolini, iqhwa elixegayo, elimhlophe nelithambile, lingene ezicathulweni zami, indawo ebukeka kahle ibimangalisa. Umshayeli uqonde komunye wemizi eyakhiwe ngezingodo, iziko likhombisa izimpawu zokuphila, bekubukeka sengathi kuyashisa ngandlela thile, yize bekungabandi kakhulu. Sasise "edolobheni", emzaneni omncane wabantu abagawula izingodo okwathi ngaleyo minyaka basuswa ngokuphelele emhlabeni.
Amahlathi e-Oak naphayini asizungezile, ingxenye enkulu ye ISierra Madre Occidental, lapho igebe likhuphuka ngaphezu kwalo, ligcina uhlaza lwalo luqinile. Igama elithi "biodiversity" belingakasungulwa futhi nezinkinga zokubhujiswa kwamahlathi, yize besezibalulekile, bezingabalulekile njengamanje. Ukuqaphela kubonakala sengathi kuvuka kuphela lapho sekwephuze kakhulu.
Angikaze ngazi ukuthi kwakuyindawo yokudlela noma isitsha senkantini, iqiniso ukuthi indawo yokucima ukoma nekhishi kwakusebenza ngasikhathi sinye, kukhonza abantu bendawo nalabo, njengathi, abangena kulowo mzila ohamba kancane. Imenyu yayiqukethe inyama yenkomo eyosiwe, i-jerky, ubhontshisi nelayisi. Ekhoneni elilodwa, abashisekeli abathathu abebehambisana nesigingci bahuba i- ephethwe nguBenjamín Argumedo. Sahlala etafuleni ngendwangu yetafula lepulasitiki elibomvu nelimhlophe.
Olunye uhambo lwafika engqondweni yami: lolu esasilwenzile eminyakeni edlule ukuvakashela iYucatán silandela umgwaqo omkhulu osogwini, owawungakabi nawo amabhuloho nokuthi ukuwela imifula kwakudingeka sikwenze ngamaphanga; uhambo oluyingozi olusuka eTapachula luye eTijuana olugibela izitimela okwathi ngaleso sikhathi lwenza uhambo ngezinsuku eziningi; ukuvakashela eMonte Alban ku Uhambo lwaseMexico-Oaxaca lokho bekunezingeniso eziyizinkulungwane zamajika emgwaqweni. Lonke lolu hambo lwalude, lude luyakhathaza, lwalugcwele izimanga nama-nuances, kepha akukho kolunye lwazo esibe sendaweni ecashile nenesizungu. Lapho la madoda ayecula esehambile, ngaya emnyango ukuyobheka ukuthi alahleke kanjani phakathi kwehlathi.
Ngokushesha ngemva kwalokho, saqhubeka nohambo lwethu olwasiyisa eDurango lwaze lwaya edolobheni laseParral, eChihuahua. Kuthe lapho amakhaza eseshubile, sabuya ngendlela efanayo, umshayeli akabange esama "edolobheni", okwathi sekuntwela entathakusa lafana nedolobha lesipoki. U-El Espinazo wasimangaza, ukulala kancane lapho udlula phakathi kwesiqongo sayo, ngaphandle kokukhuluma igama. Sekudlule iminyaka eminingi futhi angitholanga muntu oweqe umgogodla kaSathane elolini elixakile, kwesinye isikhathi ngicabanga ukuthi lo mzila awukho nokuthi konke bekungumkhiqizo wohambo lokucabanga oluya enhliziyweni yentaba yaseDurango.
