IYelapa yindawo esezulwini. Lapho ngihlangana naye ngangiqonda ukuthi kungani ezinye izivakashi zihamba usuku lonke, futhi nginqume ukuhlala kuze kube yiminyaka eminingana.
Safika ePuerto Vallarta ngolunye usuku ekuseni libalele ilanga libalele. Kutholakala esifundazweni saseJalisco, ogwini lwasePacific, iPuerto Vallarta yindawo okumele ibonwe izivakashi. Ngakolunye uhlangothi lwedolobha, ePlaya de los Muertos ethandwayo -manje eyaziwa ngokuthi yiPlaya del Sol-, kunejetty lapho izikebhe namapanga emisa khona ukuthi, usuku lonke, angene ahambe ethekwini neYelapa. Ungashiya futhi i-Rosita pier, endala endaweni, ekuqaleni kwe-boardwalk; noma usuka eBoca de Tomatlán, imizuzu eyishumi nanhlanu ngemoto emgwaqeni omkhulu weBarra de Navidad. Khona lapho, umgwaqo ubheke entabeni, ngakho ukuphela kwendlela yokufika eYelapa ngesikebhe.
Isikebhe esasigibele kuso sasilayishwe phezulu; umgibeli oyedwa kuphela owayephethe amabhokisi amaningana emiphako, inja ekhubazekile, ngisho nesitebhisi! Senze isigamu sehora ukushayela eningizimu; Sama eLos Arcos, ukwakheka kwamadwala emvelo ngaphezu kwamamitha angama-20 ukuphakama, osekuphenduke uphawu lwePuerto Vallarta. Phakathi kwemigudu noma "imengamo", indawo engcwele yasolwandle ibekwe lapho abantu betshuza khona futhi bashushuluze. Lapho, sathatha iposi elaliza ngesinye isikebhe futhi saqhubeka nokuhamba ngaphambi kwezinhlobo zezintaba ezingenangqondo ezingeniswa olwandle. Sama futhi, eQuimixto Cove; bese kuthi ePlaya de las Ánimas, nesihlabathi esimhlophe, lapho kutholakala izindlu ezimbili kuphela. Saqhubeka nohambo, saqabuleka ngamabhiya abandayo, futhi ekugcineni sangena ethekwini elincanyana eliseningizimu yeBay of Banderas.
Umbukiso uyakhazimula. Ebhekene nombono we-aquamarine wolwandle, futhi obekwe phakathi kwezintaba, idolobhana lisondela, ikakhulukazi elenziwe ngama-palapas azungezwe izihlahla zesundu kanye notshani obuluhlaza obushisayo. Njengokuthinta okuqedile, impophoma enhle kakhulu igqamisa okuluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka kwayo ngemuva kwendawo eluhlaza. Isimo kubonakala sengathi sivele ePolynesian Islands. UYelapa unomoya we-bohemian. Izakhamizi zayo ezinobungane zibonisa, ngentshiseko nangothando, izimangaliso ezizungeze umphakathi. Sihamba noJeff Elíes, sazungeza iYelapa kusuka ekugcineni kuya ekugcineni. Ngaphezu kwalokho, wasimemela endlini yakhe, esesiqongweni sentaba.
Ngokuvamile, kusetshenziswe uphahla oluphakeme, izitshalo zokwakha zinomumo ongunxande, futhi azikho izindonga ezikuvimbela ukuthi uthokozele i-panorama. Azikho okhiye, ngoba cishe ayikho indlu enomnyango. Kuze kube muva nje, izindlu eziningi bezifulelwe ngotshani. Manje, ukugwema ofezela, abantu bendawo bahlanganise amathayili nosimende. Okuwukuphela kokubi ukuthi ngesikhathi sasehlobo izindlu zabo ziba ngohhavini bangempela, ngoba umoya ohelezayo awuhambi ngendlela efanayo. Abezinye izizwe bagcina ama-palapas asekuqaleni. Abantu abanawo ugesi, yize ezinye izindlu zisebenzisa ukukhanya kwelanga; izindawo zokudlela ezine zikhanyisa isidlo sakusihlwa ngamakhandlela; futhi, ebusuku, abantu bakhanyisa indlela ngamathoshi -okuyithuluzi elibalulekile-, ngoba yonke into igqitshwe ebumnyameni.
I-Yelapa isho ukuthi "Indawo lapho kuhlangana khona amanzi noma izikhukhula." Umsuka waleli gama yiPurépecha, ulimi lwendabuko olukhulunywa kakhulu eMichoacán. Unentshisekelo ngemvelaphi yale ndawo, uTomás del Solar wasichazela ukuthi umlando waseYelapa awufundiswanga kangako. Imizi yayo yokuqala isukela ezikhathini zangaphambi kweSpanishi. Ubufakazi balokhu ukutholakala, egqumeni elisedolobheni, kwezinto zobumba, isici samasiko achume eNtshonalanga: imicibisholo, imimese ye-obsidian nama-petroglyphs amele amanani abantu. Futhi, ngenkathi kumbiwa umthombo, kusanda kutholwa imbazo eqoshwe etsheni, indala ngokwedlulele futhi isesimeni esihle.
Kakade ezikhathini zamakholoni, imininingwane yokuqala ethembekile yokuba khona kweBay ihlehlela emuva ngonyaka we-1523, lapho uFrancisco Cortés de San Buenaventura - umshana kaHernán Cortés-, ethinta la mabhishi lapho edlula ebheke eColima, lapho aqokwa khona njengo-lieutenant we umbusi. Kamuva, ngo-1652, umshumayeli wevangeli waseFranciscan uFray Antonio Tello, isazi-mlando saseDominican, wakhuluma ngaleyo ndawo encwadini yakhe eyiphutha ethi ... of Santa Providencia de Xalisco ... lapho elandisa ngokunqotshwa kweNtshonalanga ngaphansi kokulawulwa nguNuño de Guzmán.
Inani labantu baseYelapa cishe lalingabahlali abayinkulungwane; kubo abangaba ngamashumi amane ngabokufika. Ngesikhathi sasebusika, lesi sibalo siyashintshashintsha, ngenxa yezokuvakasha ezivela ikakhulukazi eCanada nase-United States. Ngaphezu kwalokho, unyaka nonyaka, kufika abantu abangaba ngu-200 befuna isimo sezulu esihle futhi bahlala isikhathi esivame ukuhlala kuze kube ihlobo elishisayo. Inani elikhulu lezingane lijabulisa isigodi. Imvamisa basebenza "njengabaqondisi bezokuvakasha". Iningi lemindeni likhulu, linezingane ezine kuya kweziyisishiyagalombili, ngakho-ke amaphesenti angama-65 abantu bakhiwe izingane ezifunda isikole nentsha. Idolobha linesikole esinikeza izingane zasenkulisa esikoleni esiphakeme.
E-Yelapa kunabaculi abaningi, abadwebi, abaqophi bemifanekiso, ababhali nabenzi bamafilimu abakwazisayo ukuthintana ngqo nemvelo nokuthula kwempilo elula ne-rustic. Lapha bajabulela ubusuku obugcwele izinkanyezi, abekho ugesi, izingcingo azikhali, akukho msindo womgwaqo, nomoya ongcolile owenziwa izimboni. Bahlala bodwa ezweni, ngaphandle komphakathi wabathengi, ne-generator yemvelo ekahle yokuvuselela amandla empilo.
Ukuza, inkathi enhle kakhulu iphakathi kukaSepthemba noFebhuwari, lapho umswakama uncipha. Ngaphezu kwalokho, kusukela ngoDisemba ungathokozela umbukiso onikezwa imikhomo yama-humpback, ucule futhi ugxume echwebeni. I-Yelapa ilungele ukukhempa, ukuhamba, ukuhlola umfula, ukungena ehlathini, ukuvakashela izimpophoma, noma ukugibela isikebhe "ukuthola" amabhishi acashile. ILagunita Hotel inamakamelo angasese angamashumi amathathu; yize kungenzeka ukuqasha indlu, noma ikamelo nje.
Ogwini lolwandle kunama-palapas ayishumi nambili lapho, phakathi kwezinye izitsha, kunikezwa inhlanzi emnandi kakhulu, noma isidlo esimnandi nesibabazekayo esinokudla kwasolwandle okusha. Kusukela ngoNovemba kuya kuMeyi ukudoba kuningi kakhulu futhi kuhlukahlukene: i-sailfish, i-marlin, i-dorado ne-tuna; unyaka wonke utholakala ngesahafish ne-red snapper. Amanzi maningi kulesi sifunda. Ngaphandle kolwandle, i-Yelapa inemifula emibili, i-Tuito ne-Yelapa, emithambekeni yayo emikhulu eyenza sikwazi ukusizakala ngezifufula zazo ngenxa yamandla adonsela phansi. Impophoma iYelapa, engaphezulu kwamamitha angama-30 ukuphakama, itholakala cishe ibanga lokuhamba ngemizuzu eyi-15 ukusuka ogwini.
Ngemuva kohambo olude nolusindayo olucishe lube yihora, uhamba ngomgwaqo omncane phakathi kwehlathi, uzofinyelela kwenye impophoma ephakeme ngamamitha ayi-4, ekuvumela ukuthi ugeze futhi uthokozele ukusha kwayo. Ngemuva kokuhamba imizuzu engu-45, ngemuva kokuwela umfula iTuito kaningana, uzofika e-El Salto, impophoma ephakeme ngamamitha ayi-10. Ukuhamba ihora elilodwa kuphela, phakathi kotshani obukhulu, kuholela empophomeni i-El Berenjenal, eyaziwa nangokuthi yiLa Catedral, emfudlana wayo omuhle ufinyelela kumamitha angama-35. Okunye futhi impophoma yomfula iCalderas, ongaphezu kwamamitha angama-30 ukuphakama. Ukufika lapho, kuthatha cishe amahora amathathu nohhafu ukusuka olwandle. Enye indawo evelele, noma ekhanga kakhulu ekhempini, yiPlaya Larga, oqhele ngezinyawo amahora amabili nengxenye.
Phambilini, umphakathi wawuhlala epulazini likabhanana kanye ne-copra ye-coquillo, ukwenza uwoyela nezinsipho. Ikhofi ne-chewing gum nakho kwakulinywa, umuthi okhula ngendlela exakile, yize umkhiqizo uthathelwe indawo yizimboni. Izithelo ezivelele zale ndawo ubhanana, ukhukhunathi, upopoya, iwolintshi kanye novuthiwe. Ekugcineni, njengesikhumbuzo se-Yelapa, izingcweti zithengisa imisebenzi yazo ye-otanzincirán rosewood: izingqwembe, izitsha zesaladi, amavasi, ama-roller nezinye izinto eziguqukile.
UMA UYA EYELAPA
Ukufika eYelapa usuka eMexico City, thatha umgwaqo ongunombolo 120 oya eGuadalajara. Ngemuva kwalokho thatha umgwaqo ongunombolo 15 ubheke eTepic, uqhubeke ngomgwaqo omkhulu u-68 ubheke eLas Varas oxhuma nenombolo. 200 ebheke ePuerto Vallarta. EPuerto Vallarta kufanele uthathe ipanga noma isikebhe ukukuhambisa eYelapa, njengoba ukuphela kwendlela yokufika lapho ulwandle.
Kunezinketho eziningi. Esinye sisePlaya de los Muertos, lapho izikebhe zihamba khona usuku lonke, zithathe uhambo lwehora. Ungashiya futhi i-Embarcadero Rosita, etholakala ku-boardwalk ePuerto Vallarta. Inketho yesithathu yiBoca de Tomatlán, esemgwaqweni omkhulu oya eBarra de Navidad, imizuzu eyishumi nanhlanu ngaphambi kwePuerto Vallarta. Kusukela eBoca de Tomatlán, umgwaqo omkhulu ungena ezintabeni, ngakho-ke ungafika kuphela eYelapa ngolwandle.
