Bathi i-pulque evela ku-Apan, emuva ngawo-1920, kwase kuyisiko vele. Isitimela besifika eMexico City njalo ekuseni siphethe i-pulque entsha ebiphekelwa ematafuleni amahle kakhulu emphakathini wamaPorfirian, njengasemaphandleni, lapho abesifazane bephethe i- "itacate", ehlala ihambisana nojeke omncane walesi siphuzo esijabulisayo. .
Ngizama ukuthola umsuka walesi siphuzo sikazwelonke, ngiya khona kanye enhlokweni yesichasiso saso sendabuko: i-Apan. Kuyangimangaza ukuthi okusele kwezindawo ezinkulu zesifunda kugxishwe buthule nokungasebenzi iminyaka eminingi. Amasimu amakhulu anamandla asephelile futhi lezi zitshalo ezihloniphekile zisetshenziselwa kuphela ukunciphisa amasimu ebhali asethathe indawo yawo. IPulque manje ikhiqizwa kuphela ngamanani amancane ukuze isetshenziswe endaweni!
Ngibuza ngapha nangapha, ngigijimela kuValentín Rosas, owayekade eyi-tlachiquero, onobungane nohlekisayo onquma ukungiphelezela futhi abe ngumqondisi wami. Ngidunyazwe yilokho engikutholile e-Apan, ngiya edolobheni laseSanta Rosa, lapho uGabriela Vázquez ancoma khona ukuthi sifune uDon Pazcasio Gutiérrez: "Leyo ndoda iyazi!" -Usicacisa kahle.
Lapho sifika endlini kaMnu. Gutiérrez, basiholela ethangini lamanzi futhi ebumnyameni bawo obumnyama kuvela umuntu onomusa wendoda enamandla eneminyaka engamashumi ayisikhombisa. Ngiphawula ngenhloso yami yokwazi "bukhoma" konke okuphathelene ne-pulque. Ngaphandle kokuchitha isikhathi, uyavuma ukusisiza futhi avalelise ngokuthi “Sizobonana kusasa! Ngemuva kokuphuma kwelanga, siya ezintabeni! " Amagama akhe angitshela ukuthi lokhu kuzonwaya akuyona indaba yokujaha.
Ngakusasa, cishe ngehora lesi-8 ekuseni, sasuka saya ezintabeni ngejubane eliphansi kakhulu. "Uma kungekho phuthuma, i-pulque ingilindile lapho!" -Ungitshele lapho ngifuna ukuphuthumisa i- "Avocado", imbongolo yakhe enhle.
UDon Pazcasio wathi: “Lapho ngisemncane u-Apan wayeyinto ehlukile. Izimoto ezinamandla zamboza wonke umhlaba. Cishe bonke basebenze ezindaweni ezinkulu. Kabili ngosuku ama-tlachiqueros ayeklwebha futhi akhiphe inhlanzi ngama-acocotes (ama-guajes) futhi athwale ama-chestnuts aphelele kuma-tinacales abekwazi ukufika kumalitha ayi-1 000.
“Ingxenye ebalulekile yenqubo - kuyaqhubeka uDon Pazcasio - ukufaka imbewu (xnaxtli) noma i-pulque evuthiwe lapho kuqala khona ukuvutshelwa. Kukodwa nje, inqubo yokwenza i-pulque ilula kakhulu kepha ilayishwe inkolelo-ze. I-tinacal yayithathwa njengendawo engcwele, futhi ekuqaleni kwakuthandazwa. Ubungeke uthwale isigqoko, kungavunyelwa abantu ongabazi noma besifazane futhi akumele kushiwo amagama amabi, ngoba konke lokhu kungalimaza i-pulque ”.
Ekugcineni sathola i-maguey lapho bathatha khona imed ukuze sinambithe. Ngikuthole kumnandi! UDon Pazcasio wakwenza kwacaca kimi ukuthi i-pulque itholakala ekuvutsheni kwe-mead, kuyilapho i-mezcal ne-tequila itholakala kusiphuzo se-mead efanayo.
"Kusukela eminyakeni eyisikhombisa kuya kwengu-10 ubudala, i-maguey ifinyelela ekuvuthweni kwayo, futhi ukusuka maphakathi, njenge-artichoke enkulu eqala ukuvuvukala, isiqu esikhulu sembali eyodwa siqala ukukhula - uDon Pazcasio uyaqhubeka nokusibhalela. Ngaphambi kokuba siqhakaze, lesi sitshalo sithenwa ngokusika isiqu esiveza ‘uphayinaphu’ lapho kuvulwa khona amasentimitha angaba amashumi amathathu noma amashumi amahlanu ukukhipha umhlanga. Isitshalo ngasinye singakhiqiza phakathi kwamalitha amahlanu kuya kwayisithupha ngosuku. Ijusi kufanele iqoqwe kabili ngosuku ukugwema ukuvutshelwa, futhi ukuvikela isitshalo ezinambuzaneni nasemhlabathini, amanye amaqabunga asongwe ngaphezu kwembobo, ewaluka ngameva. Ngemuva kwezinyanga ezine noma eziyisithupha lesi sitshalo, esivele sikhiqize amalitha amaningi emifula, silahlekelwa ngumongo waso bese siyoma.
“UPulque ubisi, ubebanda kancane futhi umuncu futhi unotshwala obuningi kunebhiya, kodwa ungaphansi kwewayini. Njengoba icebile ngamavithamini, amaminerali kanye nama-amino acid, bathi kusezingeni elilodwa kuphela kushoda ngomhluzi wenkukhu! Izithelo ezichotshoziwe zengezwa ku-pulque 'ephulukisiwe', okuthuthukisa kakhulu ukunambitheka kwayo futhi kuyenze ibe nomsoco nakakhulu. "
Kunobufakazi obuningi bomlando bokusetshenziswa kwalesi siphuzo, phakathi kwabo kunama-hieroglyphs aseMayan kanye nodonga oluseGreat Pyramid of Cholula, ePuebla, lapho kubhekwa khona iqembu labaphuzi be-pulque abajabulayo. Iqiniso ukuthi cishe wonke amasiko aseMexico ayisebenzisile kanti amanye akwenze cishe iminyaka eyizinkulungwane ezimbili. Abanye bakholelwa ukuthi unkulunkulukazi uMayahuel ungene enhliziyweni ye-maguey futhi wavumela igazi lakhe ukuba ligeleze kanye namanzi esitshalo kwakha i-pulque. Abanye bagomela ukuthi uPapantzin, isicukuthwane saseToltec, wathola ukuthi angayikhipha kanjani le mead futhi wathumela indodakazi yakhe uXóchitl nomnikelo waleli saphu elimnandi eNkosini uTecpancaltzin, owayethakelwe kakhulu yi-effluvia yalesi siphuzo, waze wamshada. Abanye bathi lowo owathola i-pulque wavela waba yisidakwa sokuqala kwakungu-opossum!
UPulque wayedakwe yizikhulu nabapristi ukugubha ukunqoba okukhulu noma ngamaholide akhethekile enkolo. Ukusetshenziswa kwayo bekukhawulelwe kuphela abantu abadala, abesifazane abahlengikazi, ababusi kanye nabapristi, kanti kubantu kuphela emikhosini ethile.
Ngemuva kokunqoba kwakungasekho mithetho eyayilawula ukusetshenziswa kwe-pulque, futhi kwaze kwaba ngo-1672 lapho uhulumeni we-viceroyalty aqala ukuyilawula.
Kusukela ngawo-1920, uhulumeni wazama ukuqeda i-pulque. Ngesikhathi sikaMengameli waseLázaro Cárdenas kwakunemikhankaso yokulwa notshwala eyayizama ukumcindezela ngokuphelele.
“Namuhla akuselona ihlaya leli,” kuphetha uDon Pazcasio. Ama-chestnuts nama-acocotes manje asenziwe nge-fiberglass, futhi kukhona abafuna ukuthumela i-pulque ekheniwe! Emazweni ahlangene. Bathi bakubiza ngokuthi ‘umpe ovela ku-Apan’, kodwa iqiniso ukuthi linambitheka njengakho konke, ngaphandle kwe-pulque! Kwesinye isikhathi izivakashi zifuna ukuyizama, kepha kunzima kakhulu kuzo ukuthola ikhwalithi enhle eyodwa. Imboni ye-pulque iyafa! Ngifisa sengathi uhulumeni angenza okuthile ukuze i-pulque, isiphuzo sekhwalithi enjalo, ibuyise ukuthandwa kwayo futhi ibe nesibindi i-tequila esinayo namuhla emhlabeni wonke. Imaguey ifana nempande yomhlaba wethu ne-pulque yigazi layo, igazi okufanele liqhubeke nokusondla. "
