Kwakungo-Agasti, engxenyeni yesibili yehlobo. Ngalesi sikhathi sonyaka, umbukiso engizobhekisa kuwo ngezansi wenziwa nsuku zonke ngabo-7: 00 kusihlwa.
Konke kuqala ngokuthamba kokukhanya. Ukushisa kuyehla. Izibukeli zibheke phezulu esibhakabhakeni zilungiselela ukujabulela ukushona kwelanga okuhle kunakho konke okungabonakala emhlabeni: lapho kwehla umkhathizwe, ilanga linciphisa kancane kancane izindiza zamafu ezinwebeka egumbini lezulu elinemibala ehlukahlukene kusuka umbala obomvana ngokuphaphathekile onsomi; kusuka ophuzi othambile kucishe kube bomvu orange. Isikhathi esingaphezu kwehora, labo bethu ababesendaweni yokubona ihhotela badubula amakhamera ethu ukuze bathathe lesi simangaliso basibuyisele ekhaya futhi basazise.
Ihhotela elishiwoyo, okwamanje, ukuphela kwalo kuphela eSan Felipe, itheku elincane lokudoba elisogwini lomfula enyakatho yeNhlonhlo Yucatan.
Ukudoba kuyisisekelo somnotho wezakhamuzi zakhona ezingama-2,100. Sekuyiminyaka engamashumi amathathu lo msebenzi ulawulwa futhi abadobi bayazihlonipha izinkathi ezivaliwe futhi abangeni ezindaweni zokuzalela nasezindaweni lapho izilwane ezincane zikhosela khona.
Naphezu kokuxhashazwa okukhulu, ulwandle luyephana; lapho nje kuqala isikhathi sama-lobster, isibonelo, i-octopus catch iyangena. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, ukudoba ngezinga kwenziwa unyaka wonke. Amathani ale mikhiqizo agcinwa emakamelweni abandayo esebenzisana nawo ukuze adluliselwe ezikhungweni zokusabalalisa. Ngendlela, ukudoba i-octopus kunelukuluku: esikebheni ngasinye kubekwa imikhonto emibili yoqalo ebizwa nge-jimbas, lapho kuhlala khona izinkalankala zamaMoor njengesihibe. Isikebhe sibadonsela olwandle futhi lapho i-octopus ithola i-crustacean, iphuma lapho icashe khona izodla. Igoqa isisulu sayo futhi ngaleso sikhathi idlidliza i-jimba ebucayi, khona-ke umdobi uphakamisa ulayini akhulule inkalankala kumthumbi wayo ngokuyifaka kubhasikidi wayo. Imvamisa inkalankala eyodwa ephilayo ingafinyelela kuma-octopus ayisithupha.
Abantu baseSan Felipe banemfudumalo futhi banobungane, njengawo wonke umuntu osenhlonhlweni. Bakha izindlu zabo nge-boxwood, i-chacté, i-sapote, i-jabin, njll., Edwetshiwe ngemibala egqamile. Cishe eminyakeni engama-20 eyedlule, izindlu zazenziwe ngokhuni lomsedari nangokhuni lwama-mahogany, zihlotshiswe kuphela nge-varnish egqamisa okusanhlamvu okuhle. Ngeshwa, zimbalwa kakhulu izinsalela ezisasele zalezi zakhiwo, njengoba iSiphepho uGilberto esahlasela iSan Felipe ngoSepthemba 14, 1988, salikhukhula ngokoqobo itheku. Isibindi nokuzimisela kwezakhamuzi zakhona kwenza iSan Felipe yazalwa kabusha.
Njengamanje, impilo eSan Felipe ihamba kahle. Abantu abasha babuthana ukuze baphuze iqhwa emgwaqeni webhodi ngemuva kwemisa langeSonto, kuyilapho asebekhulile behlala phansi bexoxa babuke izivakashi ezimbalwa ezivakashela le ndawo. Lokhu kuthula kuphenduka kube yimibuthano exokozelayo lapho kufika imikhosi yabangcwele abahlonishwayo yokuhlonipha iSan Felipe de Jesús neSanto Domingo, kusuka ngoFebhuwari 1 kuya ku-5, nokusuka ngo-Agasti 1 kuya ku-8, ngokulandelana.
Iqembu liqala nge "alborada" noma "vaquería", okuwumdanso neqembu esigodlweni sikamasipala; Abesifazane bahambela namasudi abo e-mestizo, afekethisiwe ngokunothe, futhi abesilisa bahamba nabo begqoke ibhulukwe elimhlophe ne "guayabana". Kulokhu, intokazi ezoba yindlovukazi yeqembu izinsuku eziyisishiyagalombili ithweswa umqhele.
Ezinsukwini ezilandelayo "izinhlangano" zihlelwe, ngemuva kwenqwaba yokuhlonipha usanta, futhi nebhendi baphuma ngodwendwe emigwaqweni yedolobha, besuka esontweni baya endlini yomunye wabahlanganyeli lapho kwakhiwe khona ishede uphahla lweshidi lwe-zinc. Ngemuva kwalokho uyashiya, adle futhi aphuze ubhiya. Izinyunyana zibamba iqhaza ngale ndlela elandelayo: ukusa, abafana namantombazane, izintokazi nabanumzane, abadobi futhi, ekugcineni, abafuyi.
Ntambama kuba nokulwa kwezinkunzi kanye ne "charlotada" (ama-clown ukulwa nezithole), konke kugqama yiqembu likamasipala. Ekupheleni kosuku abantu babuthana etendeni elinokukhanya nomsindo lapho bedansa baphuze khona. Ngobusuku bokuvala umdanso uphiliswa yiqembu.
Ngoba itholakala echwebeni elihlukaniswe iziqhingi zemihlume, iSan Felipe ayinalo ibhishi elifanele; kodwa-ke, ukuphuma oLwandle lweCaribbean kuyashesha futhi kulula. Esikhumulweni semikhumbi kunezikebhe ezinezimoto zabavakashi, okungaphansi kwemizuzu emihlanu kweqa u-1 800 m wesiziba somfula esivulela olwandle oluluhlaza, izihlabathi zaso ezimhlophe nobuhle baso obungapheli. Sekuyisikhathi sokujabulela ilanga namanzi. Isikebhe sisisondeza eziqhingini ezinkulu kunazo zonke, ezinesihlabathi esimhlophe futhi sithambile, sihle njenge-talc. Ukuhamba ibanga elifushane ogwini kusiyisa emachibini anensimbi asezindaweni eziphansi eziphakathi kwesiqhingi nesiqhingi, ingxenye yawo ifihlwe uhlaza. Lapho sahlangabezana nokuboniswa kwangempela kwezilwane zasendle: inyoka, izinhlanzi zasolwandle, izindwandwe nezindwandwe ezibhebhethekisa udaka zifuna izinkalankala noma "ama-cacerolitas", izinhlanzi ezincane nezimbaza. Ngokuphazima kweso, kuvela isimanga phambi kwamehlo ethu athakazelisayo: umhlambi wama-flamingo uyandiza, ushibilika kamnandi futhi ushwibeka ngokuxokozela kwezimpaphe ezibomvana, imilomo egobile nemilenze emide emanzini amile. Lezi zinyoni ezinhle zinendawo yazo yokuhlala, futhi ezansi ezinosilika ezizungeze lezi ziqhingana ezizondlayo futhi zizalane, zicwebezela ngombala wazo obomvana obomvana uluju oluhle lwamanzi, olwenziwe uhlaza oludlamkileyo lwehlathi elingaphansi kwexhaphozi lomhlume.
Ukuvakashela iSan Felipe kungumkhosi wamehlo, kugcwele umoya ohlanzekile, ukuthula namanzi asobala; jabulela ukunambitheka kwe-lobster, umnenke, i-octopus ... Zivumele ukuthi uphathwe yilanga elinamandla futhi uzizwe wamukelekile kubantu balo. Noma ngubani ubuyela ekhaya evuselelekile ngemuva kokuhlala endaweni enjengale, ngokuxhumana naleli zwe elintombi nto ... Abekho yini abaningi abafisa ukuhlala phakade?
Umthombo: UMexico ongaziwa uNombolo 294 / Agasti 2001
