Ukulandela umkhondo wabahloli bamazwe nezithunywa zevangeli abenze imizila yokuqala endaweni yaseBaja California, lolu hambo oluvela eMexico olungaziwa luqale ngendlela efanayo, okokuqala ngezinyawo bese kuba ngebhayisikili, ukuqeda ukuhamba nge-kayak. Lapha sinesigaba sokuqala salezi zigemegeme.
Ukulandela umkhondo wabahloli bamazwe nezithunywa zevangeli abenze imizila yokuqala endaweni yaseBaja California, lolu hambo oluvela eMexico olungaziwa luqale ngendlela efanayo, okokuqala ngezinyawo bese kuba ngebhayisikili, ukuqeda ukuhamba nge-kayak. Lapha sinesigaba sokuqala salezi zigemegeme.
Saqala lo mgomo ukuze silandele ezinyathelweni zalabo bahloli bamandulo baseBaja California, yize sasihlome ngemishini yesimanje yezemidlalo.
Inani elikhulu lamaparele ethekwini laseLa Paz lalingenakuphikiswa uHernán Cortés namatilosi akhe, abafika okokuqala endaweni yaseBaja California ngoMeyi 3 ngo-1535. Imikhumbi emithathu eyayinabantu abangaba ngu-500 yafika yahlala lapho iminyaka emibili. , kuze kube yilapho izithiyo ezahlukahlukene, kufaka phakathi ubutha bamaPericúes nabakwaGuaycuras, zibaphoqa ukuba bahambe kuleyo ndawo. Kamuva, ngo-1596, uSebastián Vizcaíno wagudla ugu olusentshonalanga, futhi ngenxa yalokhu wakwazi ukwenza imephu yokuqala yeBaja California, eyayisetshenziswa amaJesuit iminyaka engamakhulu amabili. Ngakho-ke, ngo-1683 uBaba Kino wasungula ukuthunywa kweSan Bruno, owokuqala kwemishini engamashumi amabili kuyo yonke le ndawo.
Ngenxa yezizathu zomlando, ezokuhlela nezesimo sezulu, sinqume ukwenza imikhankaso yokuqala engxenyeni eseningizimu yenhlonhlo. Uhambo lwenziwe ngezigaba ezintathu; owokuqala (okulandiswe kulesi sihloko) wenziwa ngezinyawo, owesibili ngebhayisikili lezintaba kanti owesithathu nge-sea kayak.
Uchwepheshe wesifunda usitshele ngomzila wokuhamba ngezinyawo owalandelwa izithunywa zevangeli ezingamaJesuit ezisuka eLa Paz ziya eLoreto, futhi ngomqondo wokuthola lo mgwaqo kabusha, saqala ukuhlela lolu hambo.
Ngosizo lwamamephu amadala ne-INEGI, kanye nemibhalo yamaJesuit, sathola i-ranchería de Primera Agua, lapho igebe elivela eLa Paz liphela khona. Kuleli qophelo ukuhamba kwethu kuyaqala.
Kwakudingeka ukushaya izingcingo eziningi ngesiteshi somsakazo iLa Paz ukuxhumana nomuntu ongafaneleki esifundeni owayengathola izimbongolo futhi owayeyazi indlela. Imiyalezo sayenza ngo-4: 00 ntambama, okuyilapho abadobi baseSan Evaristo bexhumana khona ukuze basho ukuthi banenhlanzi engakanani nokuthi bazi ukuthi bazowulanda yini umkhiqizo ngalolo suku. Ekugcineni saxhumana noNicolás, owavuma ukuhlangana nathi ntambama yosuku olulandelayo ePrimera Agua. Ixhaswe yiCentro Comercial Californiano sithola ukudla okuningi, futhi ngosizo lweBaja Expeditions kusuka kwaTim Means, sikupakisha ukudla emabhokisini epulasitiki ukuze sibophele izimbongolo. Ekugcineni usuku lokuhamba lwafika, sakhuphuka ama-javas ayishumi nambili ngeloli likaTim futhi ngemuva kokuhamba amahora amane enothuli olunothuli, sishaya amakhanda ethu, safika ePrimera Agua: ezinye izindlu zezinduku ezinophahla lwamakhadibhodi kanye nensimu encane ukuphela kwento eyayikhona, ngaphandle kwezimbuzi zabantu bendawo. "Baqhamuka eMonterrey, eNuevo León, bezothenga izilwane zethu," basitshela. Izimbuzi ukuphela kokudla kwazo kwezomnotho.
Emuva kosuku saqala ukuhamba ngendlela yezithunywa zevangeli ezingamaJesuit. Ama-muleteers, uNicolás nomsizi wakhe uJuan Méndez, baqhubeka nezimbongolo; bese kuba nguJohn, isazi sokuma komhlaba esinezintaba zaseMelika, uRemo, naye ongowaseMelika nomakhi eTodos Santos; U-Eugenia, ukuphela kowesifazane owaba nesibindi sokuphonsela inselelo ilanga elishisayo nokuhlushwa okwakusilindele emgwaqeni, futhi ekugcineni no-Alfredo nami, izintatheli ezivela eMexico engaziwa, ababefuna njalo ukuthatha isithombe esihle kakhulu, sasala ngemuva.
Ekuqaleni indlela yayihlukaniswa kahle impela, ngoba abantu bendawo bayisebenzisa ukubheka izinkuni zokubasa nokuthwala izilwane, kodwa kancane kancane yanyamalala saze sazithola sesihamba ezweni lonke. Umthunzi wezitshalo ne-cacti awuzange ukhosele elangeni, ngakho-ke saqhubeka sikhubeka ngamatshe abomvu saze sathola umfula owawunamanzi ngendlela exakile. Izimbongolo, ezingavamile ukwenza izinsuku ezinzima kangaka, zaziphonsa phansi. Ukudla kwakulula lapha nakulo lonke uhambo: ama-sandwich we-tuna kanye ne-apula. Besingenayo imali yokuletha ezinye izinhlobo zokudla ngoba besidinga indawo yokuthwala amanzi.
Kwakungekho lutho ngempela ukusitshela ukuthi lena kwakuyindlela yezithunywa zevangeli, kodwa lapho sihlaziya amamephu saqonda ukuthi kwakuyindlela elula kunazo zonke, ngaphandle kokuya nokwehla okuningi kangaka.
Libalele, sifike etafuleni eSan Francisco, lapho sithole khona imikhondo yezinyamazane ezithile. Izimbongolo, ezazingasalayishi, zabaleka zayofuna ukudla, futhi thina, silele phansi, asizange sivume ukulungisa isidlo sakusihlwa.
Sasihlala sikhathazekile ngamanzi, ngoba amalitha angamashumi ayisithupha ayethwelwe izimbongolo ayanyamalala ngokushesha.
Ukusizakala ngokuphola kwasekuseni, simisa ikamu ngokushesha ngangokunokwenzeka, futhi lokho kungenxa yokuthi ukuhamba amahora ayishumi ngaphansi kwemisebe yelanga nangaphezulu kwendawo yasendle kuyindaba ebucayi.
Sadlula emhumeni saqhubeka nomgwaqo sathola amathafa aseKakiwi: ithafa elilinganisa amakhilomitha ama-5 ukusuka entshonalanga kuya empumalanga kanye no-4.5 km ukusuka eningizimu kuya enyakatho, esalithatha. Amadolobha azungeze leli thafa ashiywa eminyakeni engaphezu kwemithathu edlule. Indawo eyayiyilungelo lokutshala manje seyichibi elomile nelincithakalo. Sishiya idolobha lokugcina elilahliwe osebeni lwaleli chibi, samukelwa umoya oheleza oLwandle lwaseCortez, osukela ebangeni elingamamitha angama-600 esingawujabulela ngokukhululeka kwethu. Ngezansi, kancane ngasenyakatho, ubungabona ipulazi laseLos Dolores, indawo ebesifuna ukufika kuyo.
Umthambeka owawuzigoqele eceleni kwezintaba wasiyisa e-oasis “Los Burros”. Phakathi kwezintende zesundu kanye eduze kwamanzi, uNicolás wasethula kubantu, ngokusobala ababeyizihlobo ezikude.
Ukulwa nezimbongolo ukuze zingangeni phansi, intambama yawa. Izinyathelo esazithatha esihlabathini esivulekile, emifudlaneni, zazihamba kancane. Sasazi ukuthi sasiseduze, ngoba siphezulu kwezintaba sabona amanxiwa epulazi laseLos Dolores. Ekugcineni, kodwa ebumnyameni, sathola uthango lwepulazi. ULucio, umngani kaNicolás, ophethe izinto zethu, wasamukela endlini, okwakhiwa ngekhulu elidlule.
Sifuna ukuthunywa kwamaJesuit, sahamba amakhilomitha ama-3 ukuya entshonalanga sifika eLos Dolores mission, eyasungulwa ngo-1721 nguFata Guillén, owayengumakhi womgwaqo wokuqala oya eLa Paz. Ngaleso sikhathi le ndawo ibinikeza ukuphumula kubantu abasuka eLoreto baye ethekwini.
Ngo-1737 uBaba uLambert, u-Hostell noBernhart base bevuselele imishini entshonalanga, kolunye uhlangothi lomfula iLa Pasión. Ukusuka lapho kwahlelwa ukuhambela kwezenkolo kweminye imishini esifundeni, njengeLa Concepción, iLa Santísima Trinidad, iLa Redención neLa Resurrección. Kodwa-ke, ngo-1768, lapho umkhankaso weLos Dolores wawunabantu abangu-458, umqhele waseSpain wayala amaJesuit ukuba awuyeke lo msebenzi neminye.
Sithole amanxiwa esonto. Izindonga ezintathu ezakhiwe egqumeni eliseduze nomfudlana, imifino eyatshalwa ngumndeni kaLucio nomhume, okwakuthi ngenxa yokuma kwayo nobukhulu bayo kube yindawo eyisithunywa sevangeli kanye nesela. Uma namuhla, ibingakaze ibe nemvula kusukela: eminyakeni emithathu eyedlule, kuseseyindawo enhle, ngesikhathi amaJesuit ahlala kuyo kufanele ukuthi bekuyipharadesi.
Ukusuka lapha, kusukela epulazini laseLos Dolores, sabona ukuthi umngane wethu uNicolás wayengasayazi indlela. Akasitshelanga, kepha ngenkathi sihamba ngezindlela ezahlukile kulokho ebesikuhlelile emabalazweni, kuye kwacaca ukuthi akayitholi indlela. Okokuqala sinamathele egqumeni, u-2 km maphakathi nezwe, bese kuthi etsheni lebhola, eduze kwalapho kugagasi khona amagagasi, sihambe size sithole igebe. Kwakunzima ukuhamba ngasolwandle; izimbongolo, zethukile ngamanzi, zazama ukuthola indlela yazo phakathi kwe-cacti, zalahla wonke ama-javas. Ekugcineni, ngamunye wethu wagcina edonsa imbongolo.
Igebe lisesimweni esibi kangangokuba akulona iloli elingu-4 x 4 elingadlula. Kodwa kithina, ngisho nangezinhlungu zasemhlane nezinzwane ezinamabala, bekuyinduduzo. Besivele siqonde endaweni ephephile. Lapho sesihambe amakhilomitha angama-28 ngomugqa oqondile ukusuka eLos Dolores sanquma ukuma sabeka ikamu.
Asikaze sintule ukulala, kepha nsuku zonke lapho sivuka kwakukhona ukuphawula okuvela kuRomeo, u-Eugenia ngisho nakwami mayelana nezinhlungu ezahlukahlukene esasinazo emzimbeni wethu ngenxa yomzamo womzimba.
Ukubopha umthwalo ezimbongolweni kwasithatha ihora, ngakho-ke sanquma ukuqhubeka. Buqamama sikwazile ukubona indlu enezitezi ezimbili kusukela ngekhulu leminyaka elidlule, sabona ukuthi idolobha laseTambabiche laliseduze.
Abantu basamukela ngomusa. Ngenkathi sinekhofi kwenye yezindlu zamakhadibhodi ezizungeze indlu, basitshela ukuthi uMnu Donaciano, lapho ethola futhi ethengisa iparele elikhulu, wathutha nomndeni wakhe baya eTambabiche. Lapho wayenendlu enkulu enezitezi ezimbili eyakhelwe ukuqhubeka nokufuna amaparele.
UDoña Epifania, owesifazane omdala kunabo bonke edolobheni futhi owokugcina ukuhlala endlini kaDonaciano, ngokuziqhenya wasikhombisa ubucwebe bakhe: amacici namacici endwangu yamaparele ampunga. Impela ingcebo egcinwe kahle.
Bonke bayizihlobo ezikude zikasunguli wedolobha. Sivakashela izindlu ukuze sifunde kabanzi ngomlando wazo, sihlangane noJuan Manuel, "El Diablo", indoda enebala elijiyile nelikhubazekile, owathi ngomlomo ophikisayo wasitshela ngokudoba nokuthi wayithola kanjani le ndawo. “Unkosikazi wami,” esho ngokuhosha, “uyindodakazi kaDoña Epifania futhi bengihlala epulazini laseSan Fulano, ngangijwayele ukubamba owesilisa wami futhi kungakapheli nosuku abe lapha. Babengangithandi kakhulu, kodwa ngabelesela ”. Sibe nenhlanhla yokuhlangana naye ngoba besingasamethembi uNicolás. Ngenani lentengo, "u-El Diablo" uvumile ukuhamba nathi ngosuku lwethu lokugcina.
Sathola isiphephelo ePunta Prieta, ngaseTambabiche. UNicolás nomsizi wakhe basiphekela isithabathaba esiphundu.
Ngehora leshumi ekuseni, futhi siqhubekela phambili emgwaqeni, kwavela umqondisi wethu omusha. Ukufika e-Agua Verde, bekufanele udlule phakathi kwezintaba, izindlela ezinkulu ezine, njengoba kwaziwa ingxenye ephakeme kakhulu yamagquma. "U-El Diablo", obengafuni ukubuyela emuva, usikhombise indlela enyukele ethekwini yabuyela kupanga lakhe. Lapho sesiwelile sasizophinda singene kuye futhi leso sigameko sasizophindwa; Ngakho-ke sadlula epulazini laseCarrizalito, eSan Francisco naseSan Fulano saya e-Agua Verde, lapho safika khona ngemuva kokuphoqa izimbongolo ukuba zidlule eweni.
Ukushiya ipulazi laseSan Fulano, sahamba ngezinyawo amahora amabili size sifike edolobheni lase-Agua Verde, sisuka lapho salandela indlela yohambo ngamabhayisikili asezintabeni. Kepha leyo ndaba izoqhubeka kwesinye isihloko esizoshicilelwa kuwo lo magazini.
Ngemuva kokuhamba amakhilomitha angama-90 ngezinsuku ezinhlanu, sathola ukuthi indlela esetshenziswe yizithunywa zevangeli isuswe kakhulu emlandweni, kepha ingahlanzwa kalula ngokuxhumanisa ohambweni ngomhlaba.
Umthombo: UMexico ongaziwa uNombolo 273 / Novemba 1999
