IJaguar cenote yinto ehlaba umxhwele ngempela. Ukujula kwayo okuphezulu, ngaphansi kwamanzi, kungaphezudlwana kwamamitha angama-30 futhi kunamanzi anosawoti ezansi.
I-adventure iqale ngenkathi ingena emgwaqweni owubhuqu (sacbe) ngaphandle kokumemezela yona. Ngemuva kwamakhilomitha amahlanu safika edolobheni lasePacchen. Kwakukhona iqembu lamaMeya elalisilindile. UJaime, umqondisi owasiletha ePlaya del Carmen, wasethula kuJosé, isakhamuzi sasePacchen, indoda enamandla, emomotheka futhi enobungane kakhulu.
Sahamba ngesivinini esisheshayo ehlathini; Endleleni, uJosé wasichazela ngokusetshenziswa kwezinye izitshalo nokuthi ufunde kanjani ukuphilisa ngazo. Okwamanje, sifika eJaguar cenote (Balam Kin).
Ukufaka i-cenote kuyinto ehlaba umxhwele. Ekuqaleni akubukeki kahle, njengoba ukubuka kufanele kujwayele ubumnyama, kepha uma sekwenzekile kungenzeka ukuhlukanisa igalari enkulu enamanzi ajulile namakristalu. Kunamamitha ayi-13 okwehla emanzini. UDesiderio, umfowabo kaJosé, wasamukela ngeflothi futhi lapho sesikhululekile entanjeni wachaza: “Le ndawo yindawo engcwele, kogogo nomkhulu bethu yayifana nethempeli. Lamanzi ayelapha ”. UDesiderio usethule engxenyeni yemilingo ye-cenote, kodwa futhi wasinika imininingwane yezobuchwepheshe: wachaza ukuthi ukujula okuphezulu, ngaphansi kwamanzi, kwakungaphezudlwana kwamamitha angama-30 nokuthi kunamanzi anosawoti ngezansi. Izidalwa eziphilayo ezazisebenzisa i-cenote njengekhaya kwakuyi-catfish eyimpumputhe, imfanzi encane, amalulwane, nenyoni eyabizwa, isihlobo se-quetzal esidleke ngaphakathi kwemihume. Eqinisweni, uma uhamba ehlathini futhi ubona noma uzwa okuthile, kusho ukuthi kunomhume eduze.
UDesiderio wasiyisa engxenyeni emnyama kunazo zonke ye-cenote. "Kumele bangene ebumnyameni ukuze bathole ukukhanya," esho. "Le ndawo umphimbo wejaguar." Akukhombisanga okuningi, kepha kwaba ngathi sisemhumeni omncane. Umbukiso waqala lapho bephenduka bebuya: umhume wonke wawubonakala futhi ophahleni wawubona ngokucacile ukubonakala kokukhanya okuvela eminyango eyayilingisa amehlo e-jaguar.
Manje ngengxenye ethokozisayo. Besizokhuphuka kanjani? "Sinezindlela ezimbili zokukhuphuka," kusho uDesiderio. “Enye ingezeledi zezintambo eziza lapho. Ukuze benze lokhu kufanele baxhume intambo ku-carabiner yabo futhi sizobanikeza ukuphepha okuvela phezulu. Okunye kusetshenziswa ikheshi laseMayan ”(uhlelo lwama-pulleys anendawo lapho amadoda amathathu ephakamisa khona izivakashi). "Inkinga iba lapho kufika abantu abakhuluphele," kusho uJosé ngenkathi ehlangana nathi ngaphandle.
Sahamba amamitha angama-200 kuphela futhi safika kwenye i-cenote, evuleke njengechibi, eyakha isiyingi esifanelekile. Le cenote-lagoon yaziwa ngegama leCayman cenote, ngoba kuvamile ukubona esisodwa noma eziningi zalezi zilwane.
Ngaphezulu kwe-cenote kunemigqa emibili emide ye-zip cishe eyi-100 m ubude. Ngemuva kokuxhuma i-carabiner yakho ku-pulley kuza ingxenye ethokozisayo kakhulu yohambo: ukweqa eweni. Kungumuzwa ojulile, lapho into engcono kakhulu ongayenza ukumemeza. Cishe ukufinyelela komunye umkhawulo intambo enwebekayo ikubambezela futhi ikwenze undize cishe ube maphakathi; akunakwenzeka ukuwela emanzini nama-alligator. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, uJosé wayesilindile nenye indoda, eyasethula njengo-Otto, umlingani wakhe, odabuka eMonterrey, owafika emphakathini wasePacchen eminyakeni emithathu eyedlule, ngemuva nje kokuba bevule umgwaqo owubhuqu. Usitshele ukuthi ama-ejidatarios axhumane no-Alltournative, osebenza e-Playa del Carmen, futhi wammema ukuthi abambe iqhaza, ngakho-ke wathuthela emphakathini futhi wasiza ama-ejidatarios ukuba azihlele ukuze akhe ingqalasizinda yezokuvakasha futhi ahlele umsebenzi.
Umsebenzi olandelayo kwakuwukugibela isikebhe nokugwedla ngamachibi nasemiseleni. Ukusuka emanzini, idolobha lingaziswa kakhulu, futhi nehlathi eliphakeme elingakolunye uhlangothi lomphakathi.
Lapho sibuyela esikhumulweni semikhumbi, umqondisi wethu, uJaime, wasitshela ukuthi ukudla sekulungile. Ekhishini, abesifazane abane baseMayan, begqoke imvunulo yabo yendabuko, benza ama-tortilla nge-nixtamal (inhlama yommbila eyiqiniso) ngesandla. Imenyu ibihlukahlukene futhi kusukela egumbini lokudlela besinombono omuhle welichibi nehlathi.
Ngemuva kwesidlo sasemini siphumula isikhashana kuze kufike isikhathi sokuya eCobá, amakhilomitha angama-30 ukusuka ePacchen.
Umlando omncane wephakethe
I-Pac-chén, isho ukuthi "uthambekele kahle": i-pac, ithambekele; chen, kahle. Idolobha lasekuqaleni lasePacchen lalingamakhilomitha amane empumalanga yendawo elikuyo manje. Abasunguli bakaPacchen kwakuyimindeni emine eyayikade isebenza njengama-chicleros ehlathini. Ngenkathi imakethe yezinhlavu iwa ngenxa yokwethulwa kophethiloli ophuma kushungamu, le mindeni eyimizulane ayikwazanga ukubuyela ezweni lakubo, eChemax, eYucatán, yahlala kuleyo ndawo eyehlelayo maphakathi nehlathi. Bahlala lapho cishe iminyaka engamashumi amabili. Ukushaya umgwaqo kwakufanele bahambe amakhilomitha ayisishiyagalolunye. Bathi uma kuneziguli ezibucayi kwakumele zenziwe. Noma kunjalo, bekuyimpilo enzima kakhulu futhi enzima. Uhulumeni kamasipala uthembise ukwakha lo mgwaqo uma besondela eduze kwendawo yamachibi. Yile ndlela eminyakeni eyi-15 edlule umphakathi wasePacchen wathuthela endaweni okuyo njengamanje.
I-COBA
Ngaphambi komnyango wendawo yokuvubukula yaseCobá kunechibi lapho sabona khona ingwenya yobukhulu obukhulu. UJaime usichazelile ukuthi, ngokungafani nePacchen, lapho ama-alligator cishe engenabungozi, nakhu kuyingozi ukubhukuda echibini. ICobá yayiyidolobha elikhulu elibalulekile ngesikhathi esijwayelekile sesiko lamaMaya. Kunamathempeli angaba yi-6,000 ahlakazeke endaweni engamakhilomitha angama-70. Inhloso yaleli qembu kwakuwukufinyelela kumbhoshongo omkhulu, owaziwa ngokuthi yiNohoch Mul, okusho ukuthi "Intaba Enkulu." Le piramidi itholakala emakhilomitheni amabili ukusuka ekungeneni okukhulu, ngakho-ke ukwenza lula ezokuthutha saqasha amabhayisikili athile futhi uhambo lwaluhamba ngenye yezindlela ezindala noma i-sacbeob.
Ukusuka esiqongweni seNohoch Mul kungenzeka ubone amakhilomitha azungezile, futhi ukusuka lapho uyayazisa indawo idolobha lasendulo elalimboziwe. UJaime ukhombe ebangeni engikhombisa amanye amagquma akude: "Ukhona uPacchen." Kwabe sekucaca ukubona ubudlelwano isifunda sonke esasinabo; ngaphezu kwalokho, kusukela phezulu kweNohoch Mul kubonakala sengathi ungabona ulwandle.
I-CENOTE EMILE
Cenote Seco kuphela cishe ngamamitha ayi-100 ukusuka emgwaqeni omkhulu oya eNohoch Mul. Le ndawo inokubukeka komlingo; lapho sahlala sathula ukuze sijabulele ukuthula nobuhle. UJaime wasichazela ukuthi umhosha weSeco cenote wakhiwa ngabantu ngesikhathi esijwayelekile, lapho kwakhiwa khona idolobha elikhulu. Le ndawo kwakuyinkwali lapho amaMaya athatha khona okokusebenza ukuze akhe amathempeli abo. Kamuva, ngesikhathi sePostclassic, lo mgodi wasetshenziswa njengomgodi wokugcina amanzi emvula. Namuhla izimila zikhule ngokumangazayo, kanti umgodi omdala manje sekuyihlathi elincane lezihlahla zikakhokho.
Sishiye iCobá lapho bevala indawo yemivubukulo futhi ilanga seliyozilahla kunina. Kwakuwusuku olude lokuzijabulisa namasiko, lokuthinteka nogqozi, lomlingo neqiniso. Manje sasisele nehora ngaphambi kwethu endleleni eya ePlaya del Carmen.
