I-serape, enye yezingubo zezingubo zendabuko zaseMexico, iqukethe ukwandiswa kwayo, ukusatshalaliswa, ukuthengiswa nokusetshenziswa kwayo, hhayi kuphela izici ezithile zezenhlalo nezomnotho, kodwa futhi nokuhlangenwe nakho komhlaba lapho abeluki bacwiliswa khona, kubonakala yemiklamo nemidwebo yezindwangu zabo.
Umlando we-serape ungalandelwa ngokukhiqizwa kwendwangu kukotini noboya, izinto zokusetshenziswa ekhiqizwa ngazo, kanye nokuba khona kwayo njalo e-trousseau yamadoda.
Le ngubo yenziwa ezifundeni ezahlukahlukene zezwe, futhi ngenxa yalesi sizathu ibhalwe ngamagama ahlukene; okuvame kakhulu yi-tilma, ijazi, ijakhethi, ijorongo, ukotini, ingubo nengubo.
I-serape ingubo eyingqayizivele ehlanganisa amasiko ase-Mesoamerican nawase-Europe. Kusukela kokuqala uthatha ukusetshenziswa kukotini, udayi nemiklamo; kusukela kwesesibili, inqubo yokulungisa uboya kuze kube ukuhlangana kukaluka; Ukuthuthuka nokuchuma kwayo kwenzeka phakathi nekhulu le-18 nele-19, lapho kwenziwa ngekhwalithi emangalisayo (ngenxa yendlela, umbala nemiklamo esetshenzisiwe) kumasifundisane amaningi ezifundazweni zamanje zaseZacatecas, eCoahuila, eGuanajuato, eMichoacán, I-Querétaro, iPuebla neTlaxcala.
Ekhulwini leminyaka elidlule kwakuyizingubo ezihlukanisiwe zamakoni, abagibeli bamahhashi, ama-charros, ama-léperos nabantu basemadolobheni. Lawa makotoni akhiqizwe ekhaya, ngokungafani namasarape kanokusho agqokwa abaninimhlaba nabanumzane emicimbini, eSaraos, ePaseo de la Viga, e-Alameda, njengoba echazwe futhi adwetshwa ngabadwebi, abahambi abezizwe nabokufika, abangakwazanga ukuphunyuka ekuthakatheni kombala nokuklama kwayo.
I-serape ihambisana nabavukeli, iChinacos neSilvers; ubone abashisekeli bomhlaba empini yokulwa nomhlaseli waseMelika noma waseFrance; Kuyisibambiso sabakhululekile, abalondolozayo kanye nemilutha ku-Emperor.
Emzabalazweni wamavukelambuso kuyifulegi, isiphephelo ekamu, isembozo salabo abawela enkundleni yempi. Uphawu lobuMexico lapho kudingeka ukunciphisa okulula: nge-sombrero kuphela ne-serape, kuchazwa iMexico, ngaphakathi nangaphandle kwemingcele yethu.
I-serape, okulingana nabesilisa njenge-rebozo kwabesifazane, isebenza njengejazi, njengomcamelo, ingubo nokulala embhedeni ngobusuku obubandayo ezintabeni nasehlane. ikapa elithuthukisiwe kumaJaripeos, ijazi lokuvikela imvula.
Ngenxa yobucayi bendlela yayo yokweluka, umbala wayo nokwakheka kwayo, iziphatha kahle noma ihamba ngezinyawo noma ngehhashi. Igobeke phezu kwehlombe, ihlobisa lowo osina, afihle amagama othando lwabathandi, ahambisane nabo kuma-serenades; Ikhona kumakoti nasesizalweni sengane.
Njengoba ukusetshenziswa kwezingubo ezikhiqizwe ezimbonini kuya ngokuya kuthandwa, i-serape isuka edolobheni iye emaphandleni, iye ezindaweni lapho kugqokwa khona amacharros nabagibeli bamahhashi nalapho abantu abadala benqena ukukuyeka. Emadolobheni ihlobisa izindonga naphansi; Kwenza izindlu lapho kukhethwe khona njenge-tapestry noma ukhaphethi zithokomele, futhi isebenza ukunika umoya emaqenjini kanye "nobusuku baseMexico". Ekugcineni, kuyingxenye yezingubo zabadansi nemariachis ezigcawini ezihamba ekuseni ekuseni zalabo abagubha umcimbi, noma mhlawumbe bakhohlwe ukuphoxeka.
Njengamanje zingenziwa ezembonini ngemishini eyindida kakhulu, noma ezindaweni zokusebenzela lapho izingcweti zisebenza khona ku-looms yokhuni, nasekhaya, ku-backstrap looms. Lokho kusho ukuthi, kanye nokukhiqizwa kokukhiqizwa kwe-serial kanye nokwehlukaniswa okuphezulu kwabasebenzi, amanye amafomu wobuciko kanye nemindeni ahlangana namanje asalondoloza ukukhiqizwa kwakudala kwe-serape.
Imikhiqizo yaziwa ngobuchule bayo, ukwakheka kwayo kanye nekhwalithi yayo, futhi imiselwe imakethe ehlukile, kungaba yendawo, yesifunda noma yezwe lonke. Isibonelo, i-serape emibalabala ekhiqizwe eChiauhtempan naseContla, eTlaxcala, iyisiqeshana esiyisisekelo ezingutsheni ze "Parachicos", abadansi abavela eChiapa de Corzo, eChiapas. Ama-jorongos athengiselwa izivakashi ngaphakathi nangaphandle kwezwe ezitolo ezikhethekile kwezobuciko baseMexico. Intengo yayo incike kuzo zombili izinhlobo zokukhiqiza nezinto zokusetshenziswa ezisetshenziswe endwangu yayo.
Ngenxa yobukhona bayo ezingutsheni zabesilisa, kuwo wonke umlando kanye nezindwangu zezwe lethu, abacwaningi be-Ethnography Subdirectorate yeNational Museum of Anthropology bathatha umsebenzi wokuqoqa ama-jorongos ezifundazweni ezahlukahlukene zeRiphabhulikhi, eyenziwe emiphakathini enesiko lasendulo lendwangu noma ezindaweni lapho abafuduki bekhiqiza khona izinhlobo zomsebenzi ezijwayelekile ezindaweni zabo zokudabuka.
Ukuqoqwa kwama-sarape eMnyuziyamu Kazwelonke We-Anthropology kufaka phakathi izindlela ezahlukahlukene zokukhiqiza nezitayela; ngayinye inezici ezisivumela ukuthi sibone lapho ivela khona. Isibonelo, izinhlu ezinemibala ehlukahlukene zisenza sicabange ngezindwangu ezivela eSaltiIlo, eCoahuila; Ama-Aguascalientes; ITeocaltiche, iJalisco, neChiauhtempan, iTlaxcala. Umsebenzi onzima wokweluka usibhekisa eSan Bernardino Contla, eTlaxcala; San Luis Potosi; EXonacatlán, eSan Pedro Temoaya naseCoatepec Harinas, eSifundazweni SaseMexico; UJocotepec no-Encarnación de Díaz, eJalisco; ILos Reyes, iHidalgo; ICoroneo neSan Miguel de Allende, eGuanajuato.
Abaluki abakopisha ama-portraits namathafa emajazini abo basebenza eGuadalupe, eZacatecas; ISan Bernardino Contla, iTlaxcala; ITlaxiaco neTeotitlán deI Valle, Oaxaca. Endaweni yokugcina naseSanta Ana deI Valle, e-Oaxaca, baphinde basebenzise imicu edayiwe ngodayi bemvelo baphinde bakhiqize imidwebo yabalobi abadumile.
Kuvamile ukuthi i-serape eyenziwe ku-backstrap looms ibe nezindwangu ezimbili ezilukiwe, zombili zihlanganiswe namandla amakhulu kangako ukuthi zifana, yize lezo ezakhiwe esigxotsheni zisuka kucezu olulodwa. Yize ama-sarape ayizingxenye ezimbili elukiwe kuma-pedal looms, imvamisa indwangu yento eyodwa yenziwa kulo mshini. Kulokhu, i-hunchback yenziwa imbobo lapho ikhanda lidlula khona futhi indwangu islayida ifike emahlombe. Le ndawo nengxenye engezansi yejazi yiyona ekhethwayo yokwenza imiklamo ebanzi kakhulu. Amathiphu ahlanganisiwe; kwezinye izindawo asetshenziselwa ukuwahlanganisa, futhi kwezinye afaka umngcele owelukwe ngehhuku.
Ekukhiqizeni ama-sarape, ezigabeni ezahlukahlukene zezwe izinto eziningi zendabuko ziyagcinwa ngenqubo yokuphotha, ukudaya nokweluka uboya noma ukotini, emiklamweni nakumathuluzi okusebenza. Kontambo ocolekile ngoboya yi-sarapes yama-Coras kanye ne-Huichols, kanye nalawo enziwe e-Coatepec Harinas nase-Donato Guerra, e-State of Mexico; EJalacingo, eVeracruz; UCharapan noParacho, eMichoacán; IHueyapan, iMorelos, neChicahuaxtla, i-Oaxaca.
Lezo ezivela eSan Pedro Mixtepec, eSan Juan Guivine naseSanta Catalina Zhanaguía, e-Oaxaca, zenziwe ngoboya kanye ne-chichicaztle, ifayibha yemifino enikeza ama-jorongos umbala oluhlaza nokuthamba okukhulu nokunamandla. EZinacantán, eChiapas, amadoda agqoka ukotini omncane (i-colera), oboshwe ngemicu emhlophe nebomvu, ehlobiswe ngemifekethiso enemibala ehlukahlukene.
I-backstrap loom iyasebenza phakathi kwe-Tzotzil, Tzeltal, Nahua, Mixes, Huaves, Otomi, Tlapaneca, Mixtec kanye ne-Zapotec weavers. Ama-cotones aseChamula naseTenejapa, eChiapas, mahle kakhulu; UChachahuantla noNaupan, uPuebla; E-Hueyapan, Morelos; Santa María Tlahuitontepec, San Mateo deI Mar, Oaxaca; USanta Ana Hueytlalpan, uHidalgo; Jiquipilco, Isifundazwe saseMexico; I-Apetzuca, iGuerrero, neCuquila, iTlaxiaco neSanta María Quiatoni, i-Oaxaca.
I-loom yesigxobo esetshenziswa ngabesifazane baseYaqui, Mayos, neRrámuri enyakatho yezwe, inezingodo ezine ezigqitshwe; Izingodo ezivumela uhlaka lwendwangu nokukhiqizwa kwama-sarape eMasiaca, eSonora nase-Urique, eChihuahua, ziwelele phezu kwazo.
I-pedal loom ngokuvamile yenziwe ngokhuni; isetshenziselwa ukwenza ubukhulu obukhulu ngokushesha futhi ukuphinda amaphethini wokuhlobisa nama-motif; Ngokunjalo, ivumela ukufaka izindlela zokuphotha. Phakathi kokukhiqizwa okukhulu kwe-serape, lezo ezivela eMalinaltepec, eGuerrero; Tlacolula, Oaxaca; ISantiago Tianguistenco, iSifundazwe saseMexico; UBernal, Querétaro, no-El Cardonal, uHidalgo.
I-serape yaseSaltillo
Kucatshangwa ukuthi phakathi nekhulu leshumi nesishiyagalombili kanye nohhafu wokuqala weshumi nesishiyagalolunye, amajorongo amahle kakhulu enziwa, abizwa ngokuthi "ama-classics" okupheleliswa nobuchule obutholakele ekwenziweni kwabo.
Isiko lokweluka izinyawo ezinyaweni lisuka kumaTlaxcalans, amahlakani oMqhele waseSpain ekoloni lasenyakatho yezwe, ahlala kwamanye amadolobha aseQuerétaro, eSan Luis Potosí, eCoahuila, naseTaos, eRio Grande Valley kanye neSan Antonio, wase-United States yaseNyakatho Melika yamanje.
Ukuba khona kwamapulazi ezinkomo kulezi zifunda kwaqinisekisa ukuthi impahla eluhlaza kanye nemakethe yale ngubo, eyaba yingubo eyintandokazi yalabo ababehambela umbukiso ngaleyo minyaka eSaltillo. Kusuka kuleli dolobha elaziwa njenge- "Key to the Inland", abathengisi baletha izingcezu ezihlukile kweminye imibukiso: imibukiso yama-Apache eTaos nalezo zeSan Juan de los Lagos, Jalapa nase-Acapulco.
Ngesikhathi samakholoni, amadolobha amaningana ancintisana nama-sarape enziwe eSaltillo futhi, kancane kancane, leli gama lihlanganiswa nesitayela esithile esivezwa inqubo yaso enhle kakhulu, umbala kanye nokuklanywa kwayo.
Kodwa-ke, ushintsho lwezepolitiki olwenzeka ngemuva kwenkululeko lwacasula impilo yonke yezomnotho yezwe. Ukushoda kwezitshalo kuthinta imfuyo, nokungavikeleki emigwaqeni, intengo yoboya naleyo yama-sarape, okungabanumzane abathile kuphela abangayithenga bese beyikhombisa ku-Walks of the Villa nase-Alameda edolobheni. kusuka eMexico. Iminyango evulekile yesizwe ivumela ukufika kwabantu baseYurophu abaningi abathi ngamehlo amangele babone amabhishi ethu, izindawo zethu, amadolobha nabesifazane be-terracotta namehlo amnyama. Okwezingubo zobudoda, i-polychrome serape yaseSaltillo yaheha ukunakwa, kangangoba abaculi abanjengoNebel, Linati, Pingret, Rugendas no-Egerton bayithwebula ngemidwebo ehlukahlukene nokuqoshwa. Ngokufanayo, ababhali abanjengoMarquesa Calderón de Ia Barca, uWard, uLyon noMayer bakuchaza ezincwadini nasemaphephandabeni aseYurophu naseMexico. Abaculi bakazwelonke abaphunyuki nasethonyeni lakhe: UCasimiro Castro noTomás Arrieta banikezela ama-Iitograph nemidwebo eminingi kuye; Ngokwabo, uPayno, uGarcía Cubas noPrieto banikela amakhasi amaningana.
Emzabalazweni wokwehlukaniswa neTexas (1835), amasosha aseMexico ayegqoka isarape phezu komfaniswano wawo oyisigaxa, owawuphikisana nowabaholi bawo, njengalowo owagqokwa futhi walahlekelwa nguGeneral Santa Anna. Lolu suku nalolo lwempi elwa ne-United States (1848), lusebenza ekubhaleni ngokuphepha ezinye izitayela ze-serape, futhi izinto eziklanyweni zivumela umugqa wokuziphendukela kwemvelo ukulandelwa phakathi namakhulu eminyaka aseColony. Umncintiswano oshiwo ngenhla ubonakala uchaza inani eliphakeme lokukhiqizwa kwama-sarape ayephethwe amasosha ukuhlobisa izindlu zawo, kanye nalezo zezintombi zabo, odadewabo nomama babo.
Impi, ukwakhiwa kukajantshi kanye nokwakhiwa kweMonterrey kuthinta umbukiso waseSaltillo futhi yizona zinto ezinquma ukwehla kokwakhiwa kwezindwangu okuphelele kulelo dolobha.
I-serape yaseSaltillo bese ilandela imigwaqo esenyakatho. AmaNavajos afunda ukusebenzisa uvolo nokweluka amasarape eRio Grande Valley, e-Arizona, naseValle Redondo, eNew Mexico, esimweni nasesitayeleni seSaltillo. Elinye ithonya libonakala litholakala kwezinye izindwangu ezweni, ngokwesibonelo e-Aguascalientes naseSan Miguel de Allende; nokho, lezo ezenziwe emakhulwini eminyaka ashiwo zihlukile. Ama-sarape okuthiwa yi-Saltillo enziwa emiphakathini eyahlukahlukene esifundazweni saseTlaxcala, kanye naseSan Bernardino Contla, San Miguel Xaltipan, Guadalupe Ixcotla, Santa Ana Chiautempan naseSan Rafael Tepatlaxco, avela komasipala baseJuan Cuamatzi naseChiautempan, ahle kakhulu inani lobuciko.
Ubuhle bengubo eyeqe imingcele yethu, kanye nenhlonipho yabantu baseMexico ngamasiko abo, kugcine i-serape iphila: njengengubo ewusizo nophawu lwenkambiso.
Umthombo: IMexico ngesikhathi esingu-8 Agasti-Septhemba 1995
