Ukujula okuphezulu kweSinforosa kungu-1 830 m ngokombono wayo obizwa ngeCumbres de Huérachi, futhi ezansi kwayo kuneRío Verde, umsele obaluleke kakhulu weRío Fuerte.
Ukujula okuphezulu kweSinforosa kungu-1 830 m ngokombono wayo obizwa ngeCumbres de Huérachi, futhi ezansi kwayo kuneRío Verde, umsele obaluleke kakhulu weRío Fuerte.
Lapho sizwa ngezihosha noma imihosha eSierra Tarahumara, iCopper Canyon edumile ifika masinyane engqondweni; Kodwa-ke, kulesi sifunda kuneminye imihosha futhi iCopper Canyon akuyona ejulile, noma ebabazekayo. Lezo zihlonipho zabiwa neminye imihosha.
Ngokombono wami, okunye okuhlaba umxhwele kakhulu kulo lonke uhla lwezintaba umhosha omncane owaziwa kakhulu waseSinforosa, eduze kwedolobha laseGuachochi. UNkk Bernarda Holguín, ongumhlinzeki owaziwayo wezinsizakalo zezivakashi kule ndawo, ukubize ngokufanele ngokuthi " indlovukazi yemihosha ”. Isikhathi sokuqala lapho ngiyibuka, ngokubuka kwayo eCumbres de Sinforosa, ngamangala kakhulu ngombono omnandi nokujula komhlaba wayo, akukho okufana nakho konke engangikubonile ezintabeni kuze kube yileso sikhathi. Ingxenye yalokho okubabazekayo ngokuma komhlaba wayo ukuthi incane kakhulu maqondana nokujula kwayo, yingakho igqame umhlaba wonke. Ukujula okuphezulu kweSinforosa kungu-1 830 m ngokombono wayo obizwa ngeCumbres de Huérachi, futhi ezansi kwayo kugudla uMfula iVerde, umsele obaluleke kakhulu woMfula iFuerte.
Kamuva ngathola ithuba lokungena eSinforosa ngemihosha yaso ehlukene. Enye yezindlela ezinhle kakhulu zokungena kulo mhosha ngeCumbres de Sinforosa, lapho kuqala khona indlela eyehla yakha amajika amaningi phakathi kwesigcawu sezindonga ezime mpo. Ngaphezudlwana kwamakhilomitha ayisithupha, okuthatha cishe amahora ama-4, wehla ehlathini likaphayini ne-oki lendawo eyomile futhi enezindawo ezishisayo ezansi nomhosha. Umzila wehla phakathi kwezihosha ezijule kakhulu udlule eduze kochungechunge olungaziwa lwezimpophoma iRosalinda, lapho impophoma ephakeme kunazo zonke ingamamitha angama-80 nenye yezimpophoma ezinhle kakhulu esifundeni.
Okungimangaze kakhulu okokuqala lapho ngehla kule ndlela kwakuwukuthola, ngaphansi kwendawo yokukhosela enamadwala, indlu encane ye-adobe neyamatshe yomndeni wakwaTarahumara okwathi, ngaphezu kokuhlala endaweni eqhelile kangaka, waba nombono omuhle womhosha . Ukuhlukaniswa ngokweqile lapho abaningi baseTarahumara besahlala khona kuyamangaza.
Ngesinye isikhathi ngehla ngeBaqueachi, eduze kwaseCumbres de Huérachi; ngokusebenzisa lapha ungathola umhosha oseceleni ohlanganiswe nezimila eziningi lapho amaphayini ahlangana khona nama-pitayas nemithi yamakhiwane yasendle, imihlanga nama-bramble. Kulihlathi elinelukuluku lokuthi ngenxa yokungafinyeleleki kwalo kugcina ezinye izihlahla zikaphayini nezishubile ezingaphezu kwamamitha angama-40 ukuphakama, into esivele ingajwayelekile ezintabeni. Phakathi kwakho konke lokhu kuhluma kugeleza umfudlana omuhle kakhulu onamachibi amahle, ama-rapids nezimpophoma ezincane, okuhehwa ngaphandle kokungabaza, iPiedra Agujerada, ngoba ishaneli lomfudlana lidlula emgodini edwaleni elikhulu bese libuyela emuva ngezansi ngesimo sempophoma enhle engaba cishe u-5 m wokuwa, ngaphakathi komgodi omncane ozungezwe uhlaza.
Enye indlela ethokozisayo ukuqala eCumbres de Huérachi, njengoba iveza eminye yemibono ebabazekayo yeSinforosa. Futhi kuyindlela enokungalingani okukhulu kakhulu kwazo zonke izintaba ebangeni elifushane: kumakhilomitha ayi-9 wehla u-1 830 m, ingxenye ejulile yalo mhosha. Kuwo lo mzila uhamba amahora angu-6 noma angu-7 uze ufike emphakathini waseHuérachi, osebeni loMfula iVerde, lapho kunamasimu ezithelo omango, upopo nobhanana.
Kunezindlela ezahlukahlukene lapho ungashona khona emfuleni, zombili ohlangothini lwaseGuarochi futhi ohlangothini lwe- "La otra sierra" (njengoba abantu baseGuachochi bekubiza ngaphesheya komhosha); onke mahle futhi ayamangalisa.
NGAPHANSI KWEBARRANCA
Ngaphandle kokungabaza, into ehlaba umxhwele kakhulu ukuhamba umhosha usuka ezansi, ulandela inkambo yoMfula iVerde. Bambalwa kakhulu abathathe lolu hambo, futhi ngaphandle kokungabaza kungenye yezindlela ezinhle kakhulu.
Kusukela ngekhulu le-18, ngokungena kwezithunywa zevangeli kule ndawo, lo mhosha wawaziwa ngegama leSinforosa. Irekhodi elidala kunawo wonke engilitholile mayelana nokuvakashela le canyon lisencwadini i-El México Desconocido ngumhambi waseNorway uCarl Lumholtz, owayihlola eminyakeni eyikhulu eyedlule, mhlawumbe ehla esuka eCumbres de Sinforosa eya eSanta Ana noma eSan Miguel. ULumholtz ubiza ngokuthi yiSan Carlos, futhi kwamthatha amasonto amathathu ukuhamba lesi sigaba.
Ngemuva kweLumholtz ngithole kuphela irekhodi lokwehla okumbalwa kwamuva. Ngo-1985 uCarlos Rangel wehla esuka "kwesinye iSerra" eqala eBaborigame futhi washiya eCumbres de Huérachi; UCarlos empeleni wawela isihosha kuphela. Ngo-1986 i-American Richar Fisher nabanye abantu ababili bazama ukuwela ingxenye eseqophelweni eliphezulu laseSinforosa ku-raft kodwa bahluleka; Ngeshwa, endabeni yakhe, uFisher akakhombisi lapho aqala khona uhambo lwakhe noma lapho aqala khona.
Kamuva, ngo-1995, amalungu eSpeleology Group asuka eCuauhtémoc City, eChihuahua, ahamba izinsuku ezintathu ezansi nomhosha, ehla eCumbres de Sinforosa futhi edlula eSan Rafael. Ngaphezu kwalokhu, ngifunde okungenani ezinye izindlela ezimbili zokuwela ezenziwa amaqembu angaphandle emfuleni, kepha alikho irekhodi lohambo lwabo.
Phakathi nesonto lika-Meyi 5 kuya ku-11, 1996, mina noCarlos Rangel, siphelezelwa yimikhombandlela emibili ehamba phambili esifundeni, uLuis Holguín noRayo Bustillos, sahamba amakhilomitha angama-70 engxenyeni ephakeme kakhulu yeSinforosa, sehla ngeCumbres kusuka kuma-Barbechitos nokushiya iCumbres de Huérachi.
Usuku lokuqala sifike eMfuleni iVerde sehla ngomgwaqo omazombezombe weBarbechitos, osindayo impela. Sithola ithala elikhulu elihlala ngezikhathi ezithile iTarahumara. Sigeza emfuleni futhi sigcina amadamu alula, abizwa ngama-tapestes, akhiwa yiTarahumara ukudoba, ngoba i-catfish, i-mojarra kanye ne-matalote kugcwele kuleyo ndawo. Siphinde sabona olunye uhlobo lwesakhiwo somhlanga abasisebenzisayo futhi ukudoba. Okungimangazile ukuthi uLumholtz uchaza le ndlela efanayo yokudoba njengeTarahumara; Ngibe sengizwa ukuthi besingena ezweni elingakashintshi kakhulu kule minyaka eyikhulu edlule.
Ezinsukwini ezilandelayo sahamba phakathi kwezindonga zomhosha, silandela inkambo yomfula, phakathi kwendawo yonke yamatshe abukhulu bonke. Sawela umfula ngamanzi afika ezifubeni zethu futhi kwadingeka sigxume phakathi kwamatshe izikhathi eziningana. Ukuhamba kwakunzima kakhulu kuhambisana nokushisa okunamandla okuvele kuzwakale kuleyo nkathi (irekhodi eliphakeme lalingu-43ºC emthunzini). Kodwa-ke, sijabulele omunye wemizila ehlaba umxhwele kakhulu kulo lonke i-sierra futhi mhlawumbe naseMexico, sizungezwe izindonga ezinkulu zamatshe eziphakathi nendawo ngokwesilinganiso esidlula ikhilomitha elilodwa ukuphakama, kanye namachibi amahle nezindawo umfula kanye nesihosha asinikeze zona.
IZINDAWO ZOBUHLE KAKHULU
Esinye sazo kwakuyisiza lapho uMfula iGuachochi ujoyina khona uMfula iVerde. Eduze kunamanxiwa epulazi elidala laseSinforosa, yilona elinikeze lesi sihosha igama laso, kanye nebhuloho lokumisa i-rustic ukuze abantu badlulele kolunye uhlangothi lapho umfula uphuma.
Kamuva, endaweni ebizwa nge-Epachuchi, sahlangana nomndeni wakwaTarahumara owehla evela "kolunye uhlangothi" ukuqoqa ama-pitayas. Omunye wasitshela ukuthi sizomenzela izinsuku ezimbili uHuérachi; Kodwa-ke, njengoba ngibonile ukuthi ama-chabochis (njengoba iTarahumara isitshela thina esingekho) ukuchitha kathathu ubude uma behamba noma yikuphi ezintabeni, ngabala ukuthi sizokwenza okungenani izinsuku eziyisithupha siye eHuérachi, futhi yileyondlela . Lawa maTarahumara ayesevele engezansi komhosha amasonto ambalwa futhi umthwalo wabo kuphela kwakuyisikhwama sepinol, konke okunye abakudingayo kutholakala kwimvelo: ukudla, igumbi, amanzi, njll. Ngazizwa ngixakile ngojosaka bethu ababenesisindo esingamakhilogremu angama-22 lilinye.
AmaTarahumara akholelwa ukuthi imvelo ibanikeza okuncane ngoba uNkulunkulu unokuncane, ngoba uDeveli untshontshe konke okunye. Nokho uNkulunkulu uyabelana nabo; Ngalesi sizathu, lapho abakwaTarahumara besimemile kuphini lakhe, ngaphambi kokuphuza isiphuzo sokuqala, wabelana noNkulunkulu, waphonsa iphinikhodi kancane kumaphuzu akhadinali, ngoba uTata Dios naye ulambile futhi kufanele sabelane ngalokho asinika khona .
Endaweni lapho sibhaphathiza khona ngegama leGumbi Elikhulu, uMfula iVerde ujika ama-degree angamashumi ayisishiyagalolunye futhi wakhe ithala elibanzi. Lapho, imifudlana emibili egelezayo igeleza izihosha ezihlaba umxhwele; kwakukhona nomthombo omuhle lapho sasiqabuleka khona. Eduze kwaleli sayithi sabona umhume lapho kuhlala khona amanye amaTarahumara; Sasinomthamo waso omkhulu, futhi ngaphandle kwakukhona i- "coscomate" -isibaya sakudala abasenza ngamatshe nangodaka- nezinsalela zendawo lapho benza khona i-tatemado mezcal, abayilungisa ngokupheka inhliziyo yezinhlobo ezithile ze-agave futhi okuwukudla kakhulu ocebile. Ngaphambi kweGreat Corner besidlula indawo enamatshe amakhulu amakhulu futhi sathola indlela phakathi kwemigodi, bekuyizindlela ezincane zangaphansi komhlaba ezenze kwaba lula ngathi ukuhamba, ngoba kokunye zazingamamitha ayi-100 futhi amanzi omfula uqobo lwawo ayehamba phakathi kwawo.
Endleleni kwakukhona umndeni wakwaTarahumara owatshala upele osebeni lomfula wadoba. Badoba ngokufaka ubuthi ezinhlanzini nge-agave abayibiza ngokuthi i-amole, impande yesitshalo ekhiphela okuthile emanzini okufaka ubuthi ezinhlanzini ngaleyo ndlela kubambe kalula. Kwezinye izintambo balengisa izinhlanzi eziningana esevele zivulekile futhi ngaphandle kwesibindi zokuzomisa.
Ukuhlangana komfula iSan Rafael nomfula iVerde kuhle kakhulu; Kunesihlahla esikhulu sesundu lapho, esikhulu kunazo zonke engake ngazibona eChihuahua, futhi umfudlana wakha impophoma eyi-3 m ngaphambi nje kokujoyina uMfula iVerde. Kukhona futhi ama-alders amaningi, ubhabhulini, abeluki, ama-guamúchiles nomhlanga; konke kuzungezwe ezinhlangothini zombili ngamakhilomitha amile izindonga zomhosha.
Indawo lapho umfula wakhe khona i-meander enkulu eyenza ukujika okungu-180º, siyibiza ngokuthi yiLa Herradura. Lapha kuhlangana imihosha emibili emangazayo eseceleni ngenxa yezindonga zayo ezivaliwe nezime mpo, futhi ngamalambu okushona kwelanga, imibono ebonakala imnandi kimi icatshangelwa. ELa Herradura sasimise amatende eduze kwechibi elihle futhi njengoba ubusuku bangena kwakudingeka ngibone ukuthi amalulwane andiza kanjani emanzini abamba omiyane nezinye izinambuzane. Isimo lapho sasicwiliswe khona sangimangaza, sasizungezwe umhlaba wezindonga ezimile phakathi komkhiqizo omkhulu wamatshe wokuwa kwezinkulungwane zeminyaka.
Okuwukuphela kwamanje obalulekile owehla kulesi sigaba se "enye i-sierra" ngumfula iLoera, osuka kuNabogame, umphakathi oseduze neGuadalupe neCalvo. Ukuhlanganiswa kwalokhu noGreen kuyamangalisa, ngoba imihosha emibili emikhulu iyahlangana futhi yakhe amachibi amakhulu okufanele awele ngokubhukuda. Isiza sihle futhi sasiyisandulela ngaphambi kokufinyelela emphakathini waseHuérachi. Sidlula izintaba zaseLoera, sakanisa phansi kwedwala elihle laseTarahuito, iphuzu eliyitshe eliphakama ngamamitha angamakhulu ambalwa phakathi kwesihosha. Nakho-ke, kulindwe abagibeli.
Ekugcineni safika eHuérachi, okuwukuphela komphakathi owawukhona engxenyeni ewumfula iSinforosa, ngoba njengamanje isishiyiwe futhi kuhlala abantu abane kuphela, abathathu babo bangabasebenzi beFederal Electricity Commission, abathi nsuku zonke benza ama-gauges emfuleni futhi baya esiteshini sezulu. Abantu abebehlala kule ndawo banqume ukuthuthela eCumbres de Huérachi, cishe amakhilomitha amabili ukukhuphuka komhosha, ngenxa yesimo sezulu esishisayo kakhulu nokuzihlukanisa. Manje, izindlu zabo ezincane zizungezwe izivande ezinhle lapho upopo, ubhanana, amawolintshi, ulamula, umango kanye nokwatapheya kugcwele khona.
Sishiya umhosha ngendlela eya eCumbres de Huérachi, okuyindawo emthambekeni omkhulu kakhulu kulo lonke uhla lwezintaba, uma ukhuphuka ingxenye ejulile yomhosha, iSinforosa, enethonsi elicishe libe ngu-2 km, umqansa Kuyasinda, sikwenze cishe emahoreni ayi-7 kufaka phakathi amakhefu; nokho, ukubukeka komhlaba kubonakala kunxephezela noma yikuphi ukukhathala.
Lapho ngifunda incwadi ethi El México Desconocido kaLumholtz, ikakhulukazi ingxenye lapho echaza khona uhambo lukaSinforosa eminyakeni eyikhulu eyedlule, kwangithinta ukuthi konke kusalokhu kunjalo, isihosha asikashintshi kuyo yonke leyo minyaka: kusekhona iTarahumara enamasiko afanayo futhi siphila ngokufanayo, emhlabeni okhohliwe. Cishe konke uLumholtz akuchazayo ngikubonile. Angabuyela emuva ahambele isihosha kulezi zinsuku futhi angaboni ukuthi kudlule isikhathi esingakanani.
