Imiphakathi eminingi yabomdabu baseTzeltal ihlala osebeni lomfula omkhulu wamanzi aluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, umkhiqizo wamaminerali we-calcareous oncibilikisiwe kuyo. Yilapho indaba yethu yenzeka khona ...
Uhambo lwakho lugxile kwemithathu yale miphakathi ekhanya ngengcebo yayo yemvelo namasiko: ISan Jerónimo Tulijá, iSan Marcos neJoltulijá. Zasungulwa ngabakwaTzeltales abavela eBachajón, eChilon, eYajalón nakwezinye izindawo, abathi ekufuneni umhlaba wokulima, ukukhulisa izilwane zabo nokuhlala nemindeni yabo, bathola indawo ekahle yokuhlala osebeni lomfula. Kungashiwo ukuthi laba abathathu ngabantu abasha, njengoba basungulwa ngo-1948, kodwa hhayi umlando wamasiko wabantu bayo obuyela ezikhathini zasendulo.
ISan Jerónimo Tulijá, lapho kucula khona amanzi
Kuze kube yiminyaka emithathu nje edlule, ukufika kule ndawo kusuka ePalenque kwathatha cishe amahora amabili, ngoba umgwaqo okwakufanele ukuthi uhlanganise imiphakathi yehlathi neSouthern Border Highway, maphakathi nejika, waba ngumgwaqo owubhuqu owonakele. Njengamanje lolu hambo lwehliselwe ehoreni elilodwa ngenxa yokuthi umgwaqo ubekiwe futhi kunamakhilomitha ambalwa kuphela wegebe ukusuka ekuphambukeni eCrucero Piñal kuya eSan Jerónimo.
Kuyadabukisa ukubona ukuthi okwake kwaba yihlathi lasendle, namuhla kuphenduke amadlelo. Umuntu uyalulama kuphela lapho ebona ukuthi imiphakathi isalondolozile, ifaka imiqhele emizaneni yayo, izintaba eziqhuma ngempilo. Iziphephelo ezihlale zisehlathini, mhlawumbe ngenxa yobungcwele bazo njengezintaba eziphilayo, ngenxa yobunzima bokulima kwabo, noma ngenxa yenhlanganisela yakho kokubili. Kulezi zintaba kuhlala izinkulungwane zezinhlobo zezilwane ezinjenge-sarahuato monkey, i-jaguar, inyoka esabekayo yaseNauyaca, kanye ne-tepezcuincle, okuvame ukuzingelwa ngabantu ukuze bathole ukudla. Kukhona nezihlahla ezinkulu ezifana ne-chicle, ceiba, mahogany kanye nentuthwane, isihlahla sakamuva okwenziwa ngaso ama-marimbas. AbaseTzeltal baya ezintabeni bayozingela futhi baqoqe imifino yasendle efana ne-chapay, isithelo sesundu esinameva, kanye nama-tortilla, ubhontshisi, ilayisi, ikhofi namaqanda enkukhu, okuyisisekelo sokudla kwabo.
Ukufika eSan Jerónimo ...
Safika ebusuku lapho i-symphony enkulu yasebusuku, njalo entsha futhi ingaqediwe, yayisithuthukile. Izinkulungwane zekhilikithi ezitshiyozayo zakha umculo oqhubekela phambili kumagagasi angalindelekile. Ngemuva kwamasondo kuzwakala, bathanda ama-bass anenkani, bacula ngezwi elijulile nangesigqi esinamandla. Ngokungazelelwe, njengomuntu ocula yedwa, kuzwakala ukuduma okukhulu kwe-sarahuato.
ISan Jerónimo umphakathi onendawo enobuhle bemvelo obumangalisayo obumema ukuthi uzindle ngokungakhathali ngenkathi ulalele ingoma yokuphumula yamanzi. Amamitha ayi-200 nje ukusuka esigcawini esikhulu yizimpophoma zaseTulijá. Ukuze ufinyelele kubo, kufanele weqe ichweba elincane elisebenzayo, manje njengoba ukushisa kucindezela, njengendawo yokuhlangana yabantu bayo yonke iminyaka. Ama-tatiketic (amadoda amadala emphakathini) eza ukugeza emva komsebenzi wabo emasimini; Kufika izingane nentsha ezingazi nhlobo ngemikhawulo yalabo abahlala edolobheni futhi okumele bahlale emakhaya; abesifazane bayowasha izingubo; futhi wonke umuntu uhlala ndawonye ejabulela ukusha kwamanzi. Maphakathi nentwasahlobo, lapho umfula usezingeni eliphansi, kungenzeka ukuthi weqe umgoqo wezihlahla ezinamanzi amancane, ama-trampolines athuthukiselwe abantu abasha, wehle ngezimpophoma ezinhle eziluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka nokumhlophe.
IBethany Falls
Cishe ikhilomitha elilodwa ukusuka eSan Jerónimo, unqamula amadlelo amaningi agcwele imikhaza okuthi emzimbeni wethu ulwele ukulingana ezindaweni lapho ilanga lingavamile ukusishaya, kukhona lezi zimpophoma. Ziyisampula yalokho i-Agua Azul okumelwe ukuba yayikhona - amakhilomitha ambalwa ezansi nomfula - ngaphambi kokuhlasela kwabavakashi. Lapha amanzi aluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka oMfula iTulijá ahlangana namanzi abandayo omfudlana owaziwa ngokuthi yiK'ank'anjá (umfula ophuzi), onombala wegolide otholakala kubulembu obuzalwa emadwaleni amhlophe ezansi, ahlangana ne ukukhanya kwelanga kuphenduka inhlaka ejulile. Kuleli pharadesi, lapho kulawula khona ukuthula, usengabona ngazimbili ama-toucan ehlaba umkhosi ngemilomo yawo eklabalasayo nesindayo emoyeni, ngenkathi ebhukuda emachibini ajulile lapho amanzi ahlala khona ngaphambi kokuwa kwawo okungenakulungiseka.
Ibhuloho Lemvelo
Kungenye indawo engaphuthelwa kulezi zinkomba. Lapha amandla kaTulijá adabula phakathi kwentaba, kusuka phezulu ungabona ohlangothini olulodwa umfula ohlasela izindonga zawo ukuze ungene kuwo, ngakolunye uhlangothi, amanzi agcwele ukuthula okugeleza asuka emhumeni kulandela indlela yawo . Ukufika emgedeni sehla emthambekeni wegquma, futhi ngemuva kokudonsela ngamandla, sazinikezela ekubabazeni le ndawo. Kusuka ngezansi ukubuka kuyindida njengokuvela phezulu, njengoba umuntu engeke akwazi ukucabanga ukuthi umhubhe wakhiwa kanjani ngobuningi bamatshe kanye nebhulashi.
Emuva eSan Jerónimo, ipuleti elimnandi lamabhontshisi athambile ne-chapay, lihambisana nama-tortilla asanda kwenziwa, sasilindelwe kwaNantik Margarita. I-nantik (igama elisho ukuthi “umama wawo wonke umuntu”, elinikezwe abesifazane ngeminyaka yabo kanye nokufaneleka kwabo ngumphakathi) ungowesifazane omuhle futhi omomothekayo, futhi onamandla nohlakaniphileyo, owasihlalisa ngomusa emzini wakhe.
ISan Marcos
Uma sithatha lesi sifunda esincane semiphakathi emithathu njengokungathi sihlala emzimbeni womfula, iSan Marcos ibizoba sezinyaweni zabo. Ukufika lapho sithatha umgwaqo ofanayo owubhuqu oholela eSan Jerónimo usuka eCrucero Piñal ulibangise enyakatho, bese kuthi nje ngamakhilomitha ayi-12 sihlangane nomphakathi. I-ranchería encane kakhulu kuneSan Jerónimo, mhlawumbe ngenxa yalesi sizathu umlingiswa nendawo ezungezile yendawo kuthathwa kuhlanganiswe kakhulu nemvelo ezungezile.
Izindlu zinezicingo ezibiyelwe ngocingo phambi kwamayadi azo angaphambili lapho izilwane ezifuywayo zingangena khona. Abangane abakhulu bomuntu yizinkukhu, ama-turkeys nezingulube, ezihamba ngokukhululeka emigwaqweni nasezindlini.
Ngokuhambisana nabaqondisi bethu abangakhathali nabangane, u-Andrés noSergio, siye sayothola izimfihlo zayo siqala ngezimpophoma zaso. Kule ngxenye ukugeleza kwayo kukhula kakhulu kuze kufike ebangeni elingaphezu kwamamitha angama-30 ububanzi, okwenza kube nzima ukufinyelela ezimpophomeni. Ukufika kuleli qophelo bekufanele siweqe futhi kwezinye izikhathi bekucishe kudonse okungaphezu koyedwa, kepha umbukwane obusilindile ubuyifanele inkinga.
Phambi kokwakhiwa kwamatshe amakhulu aqoshwe ngokucophelela ngamanzi, ukulingisa izinhlaka zesikwele zephiramidi lamaMaya elidliwe yile ntaba, kuyimpophoma enkulu kunazo zonke esifundeni. Ugijimela phansi ngamandla esuka ezindaweni eziphakeme futhi wakhe imantra eyenza ukucwilisa kwethu emachibini andulela impophoma kube yinto yokuvuselela ukwenza ukubuya okunzima ngaphesheya komfula.
Ukuqeda ukuvakasha kwethu eSan Marcos, siya lapho kuzalwa khona intwasahlobo. Uhambo olufushane olusuka emphakathini ludlula embhedeni womfudlana ogcwele iminenke yomfula eyaziwa ngokuthi i-puy, abantu abavame ukuyipheka ngamaqabunga. Kuvikelwe izindlu ezinkulu eziphilayo ezinikeza umthunzi oswakeme, ohlotshiswe izimbali ezinjenge-orchid, i-bromeliads, nezinye izitshalo ezibonisa izimpande zomoya ezinde kakhulu ezisuka ezindaweni eziphakeme ziye phansi, sifika endaweni lapho kuphuma khona amanzi. Khona lapho kukhona umuthi omude kunayo yonke esiyibonile, i-ceiba enkulu engamamitha angama-45, engagcini nje ngokuyala inhlonipho ngobukhulu baso obukhulu, kodwa futhi nangameva ayindilinga acijile esiqwini sawo.
UJoltulijá, umsuka
IJoltulijá (inhloko yomfula wonogwaja) kulapho kuzalwa khona umthombo wokuphila ogcina ingqikithi yabantu baseTzeltal esivakashelayo: umfula iTulijá. Cishe ngamakhilomitha ayi-12 eningizimu yeCrucero Piñal, futhi njengeSan Marcos, yidolobha elincane elikwazile ukugcina ukulingana kwalo nemvelo. Isikwele saso esimaphakathi sihlotshiswe ngamatshe esikhumbuzo amathathu emvelweni, ezinye izihlahla ze-ceiba ezinikeza isivakashi umthunzi wazo opholile.
Ukuze ukwazi ukufinyelela mahhala emphakathini, kuyadingeka ukuthi uye ezikhulwini, i-tatiketik eyinhloko, ukuyocela imvume. Ngosizo luka-Andrés, owayesebenza njengomhumushi wethu njengoba abantu bekhuluma iSpanishi kancane, sahamba noTatik Manuel Gómez, omunye wabasunguli, owasinika imvume ngokufudumele, wasimema ukuba sihambe naye ngenkathi esebenza futhi esitshela ngomcimbi ukuthi waboshwa ngabaphathi bendabuko ngokukhiqiza i-posh (utshwala bomoba), ethola njengesijeziso esasele siboshelwe usuku lonke esihlahleni.
Ukusuka maphakathi nomphakathi, indawo lapho lo mfula uzalwa khona icishe ibe ikhilomitha, unqamula izinkambu eziningana zommbila kanye neziza emazweni avundile osebeni. Ngokushesha iziza seziqediwe eduze kwentaba ngoba kwenqatshelwe ukusika intaba nokubhukuda endaweni lapho kugeleza khona amanzi. Ngakho-ke phakathi kwezihlahla, amadwala nokuthula, intaba ivula umlomo wayo omncane ukuvumela amanzi ukuba aphume ekujuleni kwemibilini yawo. Kuyamangaza kakhulu ukubona ukuthi ukuvuleka okuncane kangako kuphakamisa umfula omuhle kangaka. Ngenhla nje komlomo kunethempeli elinesiphambano lapho abantu beqhuba khona imikhosi yabo, benikeza ukuthintwa komlingo nenkolo endaweni ephansi kangako.
Izinyathelo ezimbalwa nje ukusuka lapho kuqalwa khona, amachibi omphakathi avuleka osebeni lomfula. Lawa madamu agcotshwe izitshalo zasemanzini ezihlobisa ezansi namabhange awo, anentelezi ethile engatholakali ezansi nomfula. Okuketshezi kucace ngokumangalisayo okukuvumela ukuthi ubone phansi kusuka kunoma iyiphi i-engeli oyibukayo ngaphandle kokujula. Umbala oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka uncane, kodwa uxubene nazo zonke izinhlobo zemisindo eluhlaza okotshani okufana nezitshalo namatshe asemhlabathini.
Ngakho-ke siphetha umbono wethu wesifunda esihle saseTzeltal soMfula iTulijá, lapho lapho umoya wenhliziyo nemvelo usamelana nesikhathi, njengengoma yaphakade yamanzi kanye namahlamvu ezihlahla ezihlala njalo.
AbakwaTzeltals
Bangabantu abamelene namakhulu eminyaka, bagcina ulimi namasiko abo ephila, ngokuguquguquka okungaguquki noshintsho, abalwela phakathi kwesiko elizuzwe njengefa nezethembiso zesimanjemanje nenqubekela phambili. Umsuka waso usibuyisela emuva kumaMaya asendulo, yize kungenzeka futhi ukubona ngolimi lwawo - olugcwele ukuqagela okungapheli enhliziyweni njengomthombo wobuntu nokuhlakanipha - ithonya elincane lamaNahuatl. "Siyinzalo yamaMaya," kusho uMarcos, iphini lomqondisi weSan Jerónimo High School esitshele ngokuziqhenya, "yize babenezinga eliphakeme lokuqonda, hhayi njengathi." Ngalokho kuphakamisa lowo mbono wokuhlonishwa ngandlela thile iningi lethu elinalo kumaMaya.
Umthombo: I-Mexico engaziwa No. 366 / Agasti 2007
