Ngokufana noLwandle lweCaribbean, iRiviera Maya ilula ngaphezu kwamakhilomitha ayi-180, isuka ePuerto Morelos iya eFelipe Carrillo Puerto, umphakathi ogcwele umlando kanye nengcebo yemvelo, lapho ubungqabavu nokuqina kwamasiko ezakhamizi zayo kuqinisekiswa khona empilweni yansuku zonke yezakhamizi zayo. isiko lasendulo.
Ukuhamba ngesifundazwe saseQuintana Roo kuletha isimanga njalo, noma ngabe uya enyakatho, lapho ukuqhuma kwabantu kanye nokutshalwa kwemali okungapheli ehhotela noma ezikhungweni zezinsizakalo zezivakashi kubonakala, kunokuba uye eningizimu, muva nje ukuhlanganiswa ne-Riviera Maya, kodwa ensimini kabani, ngenhlanhla, kusekhona izindawo ezinkulu, cishe ezingakatholakali, ezinokuvakasha okunomthelela ophansi kanye nemiphakathi esagcina inhlangano yabo yezenhlalo nekhiqizayo ngaphakathi kwezinhlelo zendabuko. Ngenxa yalokhu, umzila onqamula kule ndawo kaMayan wawuhluke kakhulu kulowo owenziwe kusengaphambili usuka ePuerto Morelos uya eTulum, ngaphandle kokungabaza ukuthi waba nomhlaba wonke.
INDLELA EYAQALA
UPlaya del Carmen uyasamukela lapho kushona ilanga, futhi ngemuva kokukhetha imoto ekahle yokuhamba kulo mzila, sibheka ihhotela lapho singachitha khona ubusuku bokuqala, ukuvuselela amabhethri ethu futhi sisheshe sihambe siye eFelipe Carrillo Puerto, okuyiyona ndawo esiya kuyo. Sikhethe iMaroma, enamakamelo angama-57 kuphela, uhlobo lwesiphephelo sezivakashi zalo maphakathi nolwandle olufihlekile. Lapho, ngenhlanhla yethu kulobu busuku benyanga egcwele sibamba iqhaza kwi-temazcal, ibhavu elihlanza umphefumulo nomzimba, lapho phakathi nehora nengxenye yesiko labo abakhona bekhuthazwa ukuthi bahlangane nesiko izimpande zalo ezijule kakhulu emasikweni amaMaya asendulo nama-Aztec, abantu bomdabu baseNyakatho Melika kanye namasiko aseGibhithe.
Akunakuphikwa ukuthi into yokuqala ekuseni sikulungele ukulayisha uphethiloli ePlaya del Carmen eseduzane, owaziwa umhlaba wonke yize ungeqi abantu abayizinkulungwane eziyi-100, nenhloko kamasipala waseSolidaridad, okujabulisa abanye nokukhathazeka Iziphathimandla zayo zinezinga eliphezulu lokukhula kwabantu eMexico, cishe ama-23% ngonyaka. Okwamanje siyaqhubeka, noma kungani sikuphika lokhu, silingeka ukuba sime kwenye yezindawo ezithokozisayo ezikhangiswa eceleni komgwaqo, kungaba yipaki elidumile le-eco-archaeological eXcaret noma ePunta Venado, indawo okuyiwa kuyo Amahektha angama-800 ehlathi namakhilomitha amane olwandle.
EMUVA KWEMIHLAHLA
Sizinikela kwilukuluku lokufuna ukuya emihumeni yaseKantun-Chi, ogama layo lisho ukuthi "umlomo wetshe eliphuzi" eMayan. Lapha ama-cenotes amane akhona avulekele umphakathi, okwazi ngisho ukubhukuda emanzini alo angaphansi komhlaba acwebile. Owokuqala kulo mzila yiKantun Chi, ngenkathi ulandela iSas ka leen Ha noma "amanzi asobala". Owesithathu ngu-Uchil Ha noma "amanzi amadala", kanti owesine nguZacil Ha noma "amanzi acwebile", lapho emuva kwemini imisebe yelanga ibonakala njengoba idlula emgodini wemvelo engxenyeni yayo ephezulu, okuyi bacabanga ngamanzi, ngomphumela oyingqayizivele wokukhanya nesithunzi.
Isikhathi sihamba cishe singaqapheli futhi siphuthuma ijubane lethu ukuvakashela i-Grutaventura, equkethe ama-cenotes amabili axhunywe yimigwaqo eyakhiwe ngokwemvelo, ubude nobubanzi bayo bugcwele ama-stalactites nama-stalagmites. Emakhilomitha ambalwa ngaphambili sibona isimemezelo seminye imihume, leyo ka-Aktun Chen, esivele sihlangane nayo ohambweni olwedlule. Kodwa-ke, sifuna ukuvakashela indawo yokuvubukula yaseTulum, ebalulekile ohambweni olunqamula esifundeni.
Sima ukuphuza amanzi wezithelo amasha eLa Esperanza, lapho bephakamisa khona ukuthi siqonde emabhishi athulile aseCaleta de Solimán noma ePunta Tulsayab, kepha siyaqhubeka sibheke emanxiweni, yize zimbalwa izifiso zokuthi cwilisa.
ITULUMI NOMA "UKUHLWA"
Eqinisweni, kungenye yalezi zindawo umuntu angakhathali ukuvakashela. Unomlingo okhethekile, onezakhiwo zawo eziyinselele ezibheke olwandle, okuthi ngokwezifundo zakamuva zemivubukulo, ngabe zakha elinye lamadolobha amakhulu eMayan wekhulu le-13 nele-14. Ngaleso sikhathi lalibizwa ngegama elithi "Zamá", elihlobene negama lesiMayan elithi "ekuseni" noma "ukuphuma kwelanga", kuyaqondakala njengoba isiza sisendaweni ephakeme kakhulu yogu olusempumalanga, lapho ukuphuma kwelanga kubo bonke ubukhazikhazi bawo.
Igama likaTulum, ngakho-ke, libonakala lisanda kwenzeka. Yahunyushelwa olimini lwesiSpanish njenge- "palisade" noma "wall", ngokusobala okusobala kulokho okugcinwe lapha. Futhi yize sasingakwazanga ukukujabulela lokho kuphuma kwelanga okuhle kakhulu, salinda kwaze kwaba yisikhathi sokuvala ukubhekisisa ukuhwalala, phakathi kobukhulu be-navy blue nokwakhiwa kwezwe, okungathuswa ukuhlasela kwamandla emvelo.
Kumnyama futhi siyazi ukuthi kusukela edolobheni laseTulum umgwaqo uncipha uye emizileni emibili kuphela futhi ungakhanyisi kuze kufike eFelipe Carrillo Puerto, ngakho-ke silibangise ogwini ngasemgwaqweni omkhulu waseRuinas de Tulum-Boca Paila, nase-km 10 sinqume kwelinye lamahhotela emvelo andulela iSian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve. Lapho, ngemuva kokunambitha imfanzi egalikhi emnandi, i-grouper eyosiwe kanye nobhiya obandayo, siyazumeka. Kodwa-ke, njengoba ukukhanya kungena cishe entathakusa ngefasitela elivulekile, kumbozwe ukuvikelwa okuncane omiyane kuphela, sizitika ngokugeza kwasekuseni kulolo lwandle olunamanzi asobala futhi afudumele njengabanye abambalwa.
NGASEKUHLALENI KWENHLIZIYO YAMAYANI
Endleleni, sishaywa yifenisha ethile eyenziwe ngoswazi noma nge-liana enikezwa ngabenzi bezandla eqhugwaneni elisezingeni eliphezulu eChumpón Cruise. Zibonisa ubuciko obungaphakathi babomdabu bendawo, abathola emithonjeni yemvelo indlela ekhiqizayo yokuziphilisa.
Asibambezeli isikhathi eside, ngoba imihlahlandlela yesikhathi esizayo, abaqhubi bezokuvakasha eXiimbal, basilindele esihlalweni sikamasipala, i-ejensi ebheke phambili nguGilmer Arroyo, insizwa ethandana nesifunda sayo, ohlongoze kanye nabanye ochwepheshe ukuthi basakaze futhi bavikele umqondo wezokuvakasha komphakathi waseMayan noGabriel Tun Can, ozohamba nathi phakathi nalolu hambo. Bameme abagqugquzeli abanomdlandla esidlweni, njengo-biologist Arturo Bayona, wase-Ecociencia noProyecto Kantemó, okuheha kakhulu uMgede Wezinyoka Ezilengayo, uJulio Moure, ovela ku-UNDP yesifunda noCarlos Meade, umqondisi we-Yaxche 'Project, obheka ukuthi “ngokukhuthaza ukuvakasha komphakathi waseMayan, inhlangano ebambe iqhaza yabahlali bendawo ngayinye iyakhuthazwa, ngemisebenzi yokushintshana ngamasiko lapho kuqiniswa khona amanani endabuko, kanye nokuthuthukiswa okusimeme kwemithombo yemvelo kuqinisiwe, ngenxa yalokho bakhiqiza izinzuzo eziqonde ngqo kubantu bendawo ”. Ngale ndlela, basimema ukuba sivakashele umphakathi waseSeñor ngosuku olulandelayo, olunabantu abangaphezudlwana nje kwezinkulungwane ezimbili abasebenza njengesikhungo sokuhlanganisa enyakatho nomasipala, futhi imisebenzi yawo eyisisekelo ezolimo, ukukhiqizwa kwezithelo, amahlathi kanye nezolimo. ukufuywa kwezinyosi.
Kamuva, sivakashela izindawo ezithakazelisa kakhulu emlandweni, iSanctuary yeSiphambano Esikhulumayo, ithempeli lakudala lamaKatolika laseSanta Cruz, iMakethe, iPila de los Azotes kanye neNdlu Yesiko. Kube wusuku olude futhi njengoba umzimba usuvele ufuna ukuphumula, ngemuva kokuziqabula ngamanzi amnandi e-chaya futhi sizinikeze izithameli, sahlala e-Hotel Esquivel, ukujabulela ukulala ngokwanele.
UKUHLANGABEZANA NEZIMPANDE
Endleleni ebheke eTihosuco, ngasemgwaqweni omkhulu u-295 siya ngaseSeñor, lapho sizokwabelana khona nabanye bezakhamizi ngezinto ezenzeka empilweni yansuku zonke, amasiko abo kanye nokudla okujwayelekile, okumenywe ngabahleli be-XYAAT Community Ecotourism Project. Ngaphambili, uMeade wayesichazelile ukuthi endaweni iningi labo lisalondoloza izingxenye zasekhaya njengesisekelo senhlangano yezenhlalakahle nezikhiqizayo, nokuthi ingqikithi emaphakathi yemisebenzi ukukhiqizwa kokudla okuzisebenzisela kona, ezindaweni ezimbili: okuyinhloko, i-milpa, emhlabeni oseduze nedolobha ngezitshalo ezithile zonyaka ezifana nommbila, ubhontshisi, isikwashi nezilimo eziyizigaxa, kanti ezinye zisebenza esizeni, ezungeze indlu, lapho kukhona imifino nezihlahla zezithelo, nezinkukhu kanye izingulube.
Futhi, kweminye imizi kunamasimu ezithelo anezitshalo zokwelapha, njengabaphilisi abahle noma abelaphi - iningi, abesifazane, ababelethisi nabelaphi, ngisho nabathakathi bayaziwa, bonke bahlonishwa kakhulu ngoba banemvelaphi egxilile ekuhlakanipheni ethandwa okhokho babo. Omunye walaba belaphi bomdabu nguMaría Vicenta Ek Balam, osamukela engadini yakhe egcwele izitshalo zokuphulukisa futhi achaze izindawo zabo zokwelashwa ngamakhambi, konke ngolimi lwesiMaya, esiluthokozelayo ngomsindo walo omnandi, kuyilapho uMarcos, inhloko yeXYAAT , uhumushe kancane.
Ngakho-ke basikisela ukuvakashela umlandi wezinganekwane noma "izimpawu", njengoba besho. Ngakho-ke, uMateo Canté, ehlezi endaweni yakhe yokulala, usitshela eMayan izindaba ezimnandi zokusungulwa kweSeñor nokuthi kungakanani imilingo okugcwele lapho. Kamuva, sihlangana nomsunguli wezinsimbi zomculo ezishaywayo kule ndawo, i-Aniceto Pool, othi nje ngamathuluzi ambalwa alula enze ibom bom noma izingoma eziqhakambisa imikhosi yesifunda. Ekugcineni, ukudambisa ukushisa, saphunyuka isikhashana ukubhukuda emanzini azolile eBlue Lagoon, amakhilomitha amathathu nje ukuya edolobhaneni laseChancen Comandante. Lapho sibuya, kulapho-ke, abaqondisi beXYAAT baphawule ngokumamatheka okubi ukuthi kunezingwenya ezithile emabhange, kepha bezithambile. Kwakuyihlaya likaMayan elihle impela.
EKUFUNENI IZINYOKA
Ukuphela kohambo sekusondele, kepha ukuvakasha eKantemó akukho, ukwehlela emgedeni wezinyoka ezilengayo. Sihamba nososayensi bezinto eziphilayo u-Arturo Bayona noJulissa Sánchez, okuthi uma bebhekene nokungabaza kwethu bakhethe ukugcina okulindelekile. Ngakho-ke, emzileni osemgwaqweni omkhulu onguthelawayeka u-184, ngemuva kokudlula uJosé María Morelos, lapho ufika eDziuché, amakhilomitha amabili ukusuka lapho uya eKantemó, idolobhana lapho kwenziwa khona lo msebenzi - osekelwa yiKhomishini Yezentuthuko Yabantu Bomdabu (CDI) kanye ne-Ecociencia, AC.
Sigibela isikebhe esifushane sinqamula echibini bese sihamba ngomzila ohumushayo wamakhilomitha amahlanu, ukubona izinyoni ezihlala nezifudukayo. Kumele silinde ukuhwalala lapho amalulwane amaningi eqala ukushiya umlomo womhume, umzuzu oqondile wokuya kuwo, ngoba lapho izinyoka, amabala amagundane, zithatha indawo yazo ukuze zibahlasele, zivela emigodini enamathele ophahleni lomhume futhi ilenga phansi ilenga emsileni, ukubamba ilulwane ngokunyakaza okusheshayo bese igoqa umzimba wayo ngokushesha ukuze ikwazi ukumuncwa futhi uyigaye kancane. Kungumbukwane ohlaba umxhwele futhi oyingqayizivele, osanda kutholakala, futhi lokho sekuyinto eheha kakhulu ohlelweni lwezokuvakasha komphakathi oluphethwe ngabantu bendawo.
EMPINI YOKUPHOSA
Cishe emngceleni nezwe laseYucatán kumi iTihosuco, idolobha elinomlando omude, kodwa elinabemi abambalwa namuhla futhi lokho kubonakala kumisiwe ngesikhathi. Lapho safika sizobona iMnyuziyamu yayo edumile yeMpi yamaCaste, efakwe esakhiweni samakoloni okwathi ngokusho kwezinye izazi-mlando kwakungekaJacinto Pat wodumo.
Umnyuziyamu unamakamelo amane, lapho kuboniswa khona imidwebo, izithombe, izithombe, amamodeli nemibhalo ehlobene nokunyakaza komdabu kwabaseSpain. Ekamelweni lokugcina kunezikhali, amamodeli nemibhalo elandisa ukuqala nokuthuthuka kwempi yama-Caste maphakathi nekhulu leshumi nesishiyagalolunye, kanye nemininingwane ngokusungulwa kukaChan Santa Cruz. Kodwa-ke, into ehlaba umxhwele kakhulu ngaleli sayithi ngumsebenzi odume kabi abawenza namaqembu ahlukahlukene, kusuka kumakilasi wokuphotha nokuhlobisa, ukusebenzisa ngokunenzuzo ulwazi lwabathungi bakudala, ukuya kulabo bokudla kwendabuko noma imidanso yesifunda, ukuze gcina amasiko phakathi kwezizukulwane ezintsha. Kulokhu, basinikeze isampula ntambama lina, kodwa ligcwele umbala wokuhlobisa okuhle kwama-huipiles abadansi ababewagqoka nezitsha ezicebile zaseMayan esikuzwile.
UKUPHELA KWENDLELA
Sahamba ibanga elide sisuka eTihosuco, sinqamula idolobha laseValladolid, esifundazweni saseYucatán, sidlula eCobá siyofika eTulum. Sibuyile lapho siqala khona, kepha hhayi ngaphambi kokuvakashela ePuerto Aventuras, intuthuko yeholide neyentengiso eyakhelwe ezungeze okuwukuphela kolwandle eRiviera Maya, nalapho banikeza umbukiso omuhle namahlengethwa. Kukhona neCultural and Polyreligious Centre, okuwukuphela kwayo enohlobo lwayo endaweni, kanye neCEDAM, Nautical Museum. Ukuchitha ubusuku, sabuyela ePlaya del Carmen, lapho ubusuku bokugcina bohambo obuchithwe eLos Itzaes ehhotela, ngemuva kokudla isidlo sasolwandle eLa Casa del Agua- Ngaphandle kokungabaza, lo mzila uhlala usishiya sifuna ukwazi nangaphezulu, Siyaqinisekisa futhi ukuthi i-Riviera Maya ayigcinanga izimfihlakalo ezimbalwa emahlathini ayo, emigedeni, emigedeni nasemagqeni ayo, ukunikela njalo iMexico engapheli engayithola.
UMLANDO OMNCANE
Ekufikeni kwamakoloni aseSpain, izwe lamaMayan elisendaweni yamanje yaseQuintana Roo lahlukaniswa laba ngamakhosi amane noma izifundazwe ukusuka enyakatho kuye eningizimu: i-Ecab, iCochua, i-Uaymil neChactemal. ECochua kwakukhona abantu manje abangabomasipala baseFelipe Carrillo Puerto, abanjengoChuyaxche, Polyuc, Kampocolche, Chunhuhub, Tabi kanye nenhlokodolobha eyayiseTihosuco, eyayiyiJo'otsuuk. Futhi naseHuaymil kuyaziwa ngezihlalo zamaMaya eBay of the Holy Spirit nakulokho osekuyidolobha laseFelipe Carrillo Puerto.
Eyalwe yiSpanish Francisco Montejo, ngo-1544 le ndawo yanqotshwa, ngakho abomdabu babengaphansi kohlelo lwe-encomienda. Lokhu kwaqhubeka ngesikhathi seKoloni kanye ne-Independence, kwaze kwafika ngoJulayi 30, 1847 bavukela eTepich eyayilawulwa nguCecilio Chí, kwathi kamuva nguJacinto Pat nabanye abaholi bendawo, kwaqala iMpi YamaCaste eyadonsa iminyaka engaphezu kwengu-80 e-warpath yokulwa namaMeya enhlonhlo yaseYucatan. Ngalesi sikhathi, kwasungulwa uChan Santa Cruz, indawo yokuhlala ye-Talking Cross, enomlando wokukhulekela onelukuluku: ngo-1848 uJosé Ma.Barrera, indodana yomSpain nomNdiya waseMayan, wakhuliswa ngezandla, wadweba iziphambano ezintathu esihlahleni, futhi Ngosizo lomuntu odlala uvo, wathumela imiyalezo kubavukeli ukuthi baqhubeke nokulwa kwabo. Ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, leli sayithi labizwa ngeChan Santa Cruz, elalizobizwa kamuva ngokuthi yiFelipe Carrillo Puerto futhi lizoba yisihlalo sikamasipala.
Umthombo: IMexico engaziwa engu-333 / Novemba 2004
