Endaweni yaseCoyoacán, eningizimu yeMexico City, kunezikhungo zamasiko ezahlukahlukene lapho ungalalela khona umculo, ujabulele umbukiso wobuciko, ubone imidlalo yeshashalazi noma uhambele imihlangano yokufundela yokubhala.
Ukuchaza indawo ekhangayo, enabantu abaningi kanye nekoloniyali yaseCoyoacán, indawo yemikhosi ejabulisa kakhulu eMexico City, akuyona into elula. Ukubukeka kwayo okuzolile, okuyinkondlo nokukhuthazayo phakathi nesonto, kuqhathanisa nesimo semotley sangoMgqibelo, ngeSonto nangamaholide Isikwele iHidalgo neCentenario.
Lapho sidabula i-atrium endala namathuna ethempeli laseSan Juan Bautista, sathola ngaphambili isiphambano esilula se-atrial; ngakwesobunxele isiqu esikhulu sompristi uMiguel Hidalgo, futhi ngemuva isithombe esibaziwe esithandekayo esiqoshwe esihlahleni somuthi esibizwa ngeLa Familia de Antonio Álvarez Portugal y Josué. Ngakolunye uhlangothi kunekhiyoski, ehlala izungezwe amajuba.
Ngaphesheya komgwaqo usuka eCarrillo Puerto, ohlukanisa i-atrium kabili, yilokhu kuphithizela Umthombo weLos Coyotes. Lesi sikwele saseCoyoacán siseduze ngasenyakatho yisakhiwo esinezindlunkulu zeFederal District (esabizwa ngegama elibi ngokuthi iPalacio de Cortés, ngoba kungemva kwesikhathi sobukoloni futhi umnqobi akazange ahlale lapho); eningizimu, ngokwakhiwa okumangalisayo kwethempeli laseSan Juan Bautista; entshonalanga, ngezinsalela zesakhiwo saso samatshe esiqoshiwe, phambi nje kukaFrancisco Sosa Street, lapho indawo ecashile yendlu kaDiego de Ordaz icashe khona phakathi kwenqwaba yamaposi.
Izinkulungwane zabahamba ngezinyawo ezivela kulo lonke idolobha, zilangazelela ukuphazanyiswa, zihlangana njalo ngempelasonto kulesi sikwele esikhulu eCooacán ukuze zijabulele imvelo yaso enempilo. Ukuhleka noMoi, uRamón, uPedro noGabo, amahlaya kanye nokulingisa okunesibindi; ukudlala noMiko onobungane; noma ukusula ukungabaza okuhle ngo "El Pollo", intende yesandla enekhono futhi enezinyosi encintisana no "Chispita" no "Estrellita", izinyoni ezincane eziqeqeshiwe, izihlobo ezikude zama canaries amahle.
Kungenzeka futhi ukuthi sihlangane nezithombe eziphilayo zemishini; ukuthi sithatha isinqumo sokulalela ababalisi bomlomo besikwele esincane saseSanta Catarina, noma simane sivakashele i-Underwater World, bese siyicwilisa olwandle olukude futhi sibabaze izilwane zalo ezimibalabala.
Isixuku esikhulu senza umjikelezo wokubona nokulalela amaqembu e-folkloric futhi anomsindo ahumusha umculo womdabu waseMexico ovamile, ojwayelekile futhi ovusa inkanuko; i-South American enesigqi futhi efudumele; i-jazz ekhazimulayo nevumelanisiwe; abadansi bendabuko abanezimpaphe zokuduma; ngaphezu kwamakhonsathi amakhulu ukuthi amaqembu ehlukene omculo acula kusuka esitodlwaneni. Njengesizinda esikude kuleli khonsathi lomculo elixakile, i-nostalgic futhi iphume ku-tune yasesitaladini ihlala izwakala njalo, emiselwe ukunyamalala, kepha isekhona emigwaqweni yaseCoyoacán.
Ngenkathi isikhala semilingo sigcwala ama-echoes amnandi, abazali abanethezekile bahamba ngokuthula phakathi nensimu, benxuswa yizingane zabo ezincane, bathola amabhaluni aguquguqukayo futhi anemibala ehlukahlukene, amapayipi aphikisanayo nawesiyezi, uketshezi lokwenza amabhamuza angenalutho, noma amathoyizi ahlanganisayo ahehayo nostalgic enziwe ngokhuni nethini.
Kulezi zingadi zaseCoyoacán singathenga nemisebenzi yezandla; thenga ubuhlalu bobuqili nodoli bensimbi abenziwe ngezandla zomdabu ezinekhono; thola incwadi yakamuva noma i-albhamu esitolo sezincwadi sesikwele, bese ubheka ikhono elimangalisayo labadwebi bokufafaza. Eceleni kwendlu evulekile yethempeli elidala laseDominican-Franciscan, kukhonjiswe imidwebo emibalabala, izindawo ezibukeka phakathi kobuciko nobuciko.
Izivakashi eziningi azinankinga nokwakha ulayini ukuze zijabulele u-ayisikhilimu no-ayisikhilimu omnandi noma amanzi aqabulayo - enziwe ngezithelo ezinamanzi zonyaka - athengiswa ezindaweni ezanda kakhulu ze-ayisikhilimu. Abanye bancamela ukuthenga umhluzi obabazekayo nommbila oshile noma oshisiwe ophekiwe, oyoliswe ngokhilimu, imayonnaise, ujusi kalamula, ushizi ogayiwe, impuphu yesiliva nosawoti. Abanye bathanda i-gorditas de la Villa yendabuko, esongwe ngephepha elimibalabala lesiShayina, I-alegrías emnandi, efuthwe uju efafazwe ngamantongomane nezithelo zomvini ezomisiwe; amaqebelengwane afulawa, anambitheka enhle enikezwa yiziju kanye nembewu yamathanga, noma ukukhanya, imibala enemibala kanye nalo lonke uswidi omncane kakotini.
ECooacán kunezindawo zokudlela nezindawo zokudlela ezinhle eziningi zazo zonke izinto ozithandayo. Eminye inguhhafu womgwaqo, eminye isezakhiweni ezindala ezivuselelwe le njongo, njengendawo yokudlela eyaziwayo esendaweni eyayikuCinema Centenario eminyakeni eminingi edlule. Iningi lala masayithi ligcwele izifundiswa, izivakashi zikazwelonke nezakwamanye amazwe, nezakhamizi zenhlokodolobha.
ITaquerías ne-torterías ziyinsada, zikhipha imitshingo emnandi emincane, amakhekhe ahlanganiswe namafutha, pambazos enchilados, ne-tepache eqabulayo. Kuthi kusihlwa, ekuqaleni kweCalle de la Higuera, imakethe ye-fritangas enezinhlobonhlobo zayo eziningi ze-quesadillas - ezingenziwanga ngoshizi kuphela -, amasongo, ama-tostadas, ama-pozoles nama-tamales; Ama-humanoids noma izilwane amaqebelengwane ama-coshot uRogelio awakha ngobuciko ukuze avumelane nendawo yokudlela kufanele abongwe.
Kulabo abakhetha ukuphuza futhi bahlakulele ubungani, yini engcono kunokuvakashela isitsha senkantini esidumile esisendaweni enhle. Kunomsindo, kuhlala kuchichima abashisekeli, lapho uChido - oshunqayo kanye ne-anecdotal bolero - izingilazi zejuggles ukuthola isiphuzo esifanelekile. Kule ndawo kuyashiwo futhi kwaqinisekiswa ukuthi: "ECooacán, wonke amaCoyotes angamaGuadalupanos."
Kule ngxenye eseningizimu yeMexico City kunezikhungo ezahlukahlukene zamasiko lapho ungalalela khona umculo, ujabulele umbukiso wobuciko, ubone imidlalo yeshashalazi noma uhambele imihlangano yokucobelelana ngolwazi. Phakathi kwezinto ezaziwa kakhulu yiCoyoacanense Forum, iReyes Heroles House of Culture, i-Italian Cultural Centre, i-Museum of Popular Cultures, i-Museum of Interventions, i-Watercolor Museum, i-Frida Kahlo Museum, i-Anahuacalli kanye ne-Museum. ULeon Trotsky. IDramatic Art Centre (i-cadac), iSikole Sezomculo, Ukudansa Nokupenda i- "Los Talleres". Inkundla yemidlalo yaseSanta Catarina, inkundla yeConchita, inkundla yaseshashalazini iCoyoacán, inkundla yemidlalo yase-Usigli kanye neCasa de la Cultura de Veracruz.
Ipaki elibanzi elaziwa ngeLos Viveros de Coyoacán lingenye yamaphaphu akhanga kakhulu edolobheni lapho ungathenga khona zonke izinhlobo zezihlahla, izitshalo nezimbali, wenze imisebenzi yezemidlalo ehlukile, uzijwayeze ama-yoga noma amapasi wokulwa nezinkunzi, uzindle, uphefumule umoya ohlanzekile futhi ucabange imvelo lapho uhamba ezindleleni zayo eziningi ezigcwele izihlahla.
