Le ngcezu yobuciko namuhla iyisesekeli esihle esaziswa kakhulu umphakathi womhlaba, esazisa umsebenzi waso obucayi. Wonke umuntu wesifazane waseMexico kufanele okungenani abe neyodwa ekhabethe lakhe futhi aligqoke lokho eliyikho, ucezu oluyingqayizivele ngoba lwenziwa ngesandla ngezinto ezinhle kakhulu.
Kusukela ezikhathini zangaphambi kweSpanishi, i-rebozo yakhiwa njengendwangu yendwangu eyingqayizivele, eyadlula isimo sayo njengesihlanganisi, ukuze ibe wuphawu lobunikazi bakazwelonke, lapho izingcweti zaseMexico isikhathi eside zikwazile ukuthatha ubuciko nomuzwa wobuciko bomdabu futhi ethandwa. Yikuphi okukhombisa kangcono ukubaluleka kwayo kunokutholakala kwayo ekusetshenzisweni abesifazane abakunikeza khona ngezikhathi ezibalulekile empilweni yayo, njengokuthi: ukuyibambezela lapho izalwa, ukugcwalisa i-trousseau yayo yomshado futhi, ekugcineni, ukuba yingxenye yengubo okufanele hamba naye ohambweni lwakhe lokuya ekuphileni kwangemva kokufa.
Imihlangano yokufundisana yomndeni
Njengemisebenzi yethu eminingi yezandla, itshali lithola kumasifundisane womndeni indawo ekahle yokuchazwa kwalo ngenkani, liba yisiko nokuziqhenya, lizuze njengefa izimfihlo zohwebo nolwazi, izizukulwane ngezizukulwane.
Namuhla, ukukhiqizwa kobuciko beshali akusho ukuthi kunesinye sezikhathi ezinhle kakhulu. Izici ezahlukahlukene njengokuthuthuka okuseduze, ukungasabalali komkhiqizo, izindleko eziphezulu zempahla eluhlaza, ukuthanda ezinye izinhlobo zezingubo nokungabi nentshisekelo kwezizukulwane ezintsha ukuqhubeka nokuhweba, kubeka lobu buciko engcupheni enkulu yokuqothulwa.
Izindawo zokukhiqiza ezake zaba buoyant ezifana neSanta María del Río, eSan Luis Potosí; ITenancingo, eSifundazweni SaseMexico; I-La Piedad, Michoacán; Santa Ana Chautenpan, Tlaxcala; noMoroleón, eGuanajuato, bakhombisa ukulahleka okukhulu ekuthengweni kwemikhiqizo yabo engajwayelekile, izingcweti zabo zibambelele ekuqhubekeni ebhizinisini, ikakhulukazi ngenxa yothando lwamasiko kunebhizinisi.
Isikole se-rebozo
Esikhungweni sokukhiqiza saseSanta María del Río, esifundazweni saseSan Luis Potosí, isiko lobuciko elibhaliwe lisukela emuva ngonyaka we-1764, futhi livela ngokuphendula isidingo sabesifazane be-mestizo ngengubo yokumboza amakhanda abo uma bengena emathempelini.
Kungashiwo ukuthi ngokuhamba kwesikhathi bekuyingubo etholakala ekhabethe lowesifazane ocebile, noma endlini yokuhlala ephansi kakhulu, kuhlukahluka ekusebenziseni kwayo okusebenzayo, ngoba kwabanye bekuyingcezu evunyelwe ukubonisa ukuzixazulula kwayo kwezomnotho, kanti kokunye kwakuyizingubo ezahlukahlukene ezazisiza emisebenzini yansuku zonke (ijazi, isikhwama semali, imbeleko, indwangu, njll.).
Inganekwane isivumela ukuthi sizwe izinga lokungena kwe-rebozo nabesifazane besifunda futhi ikakhulukazi nalabo abavela e-Otomí, ngoba kuthiwa babenomkhuba ocacile wokucwilisa ichopho le-rebozo emanzini omthombo lapho bekhumbula isoka labo.
Isikole sokusebenzela i-rebocería besisebenza kule ndawo kusukela ngo-1953, siphethwe yingcweti evelele uFelipe Acevedo; lapho isivakashi singabuka inqubo ephelele yokukhiqizwa kwezingubo ehlala ezinsukwini ezingama-30 kuye kwezingama-60 ngokwesilinganiso futhi inezinyathelo eziyi-15. Lesi sikole sokusebenzela sathola umklomelo kaZwelonke Wezobuciko Namasiko Wango-2002.
Ngeshwa kuleli bhizinisi i-panorama ayihlukile kakhulu kunalokho okwenzeka kwezinye izingxenye zeRiphabhulikhi, ngokusho kweziphathimandla zombuso, imboni ye-rebocera eyake yanikezwa imikhiqizo yayo yodumo ezifundazweni ezahlukahlukene nakwamanye amazwe, ibhekene nenkinga enkulu egqugquzelwe ngenxa yezici ezahlukahlukene njengokufunwa okuphansi, izindleko zokukhiqiza eziphakeme nokuchuma kweminye imisebenzi endaweni.
Ukuwina imiklomelo eminingi
Kodwa-ke, izikhungo ezahlukahlukene zenza imizamo endaweni yokulondoloza lo msebenzi, kanye nokukhuthaza ukukhiqizwa kukasilika wemvelo; U-Isabel Rivera noJulia Sánchez izingcweti ezimbili ezivelele ezivela eSanta María del Río, abaklonyeliswe kuzwelonke nakwamanye amazwe; bangabanye bezingcweti zokugcina abakwazi ukufaka izinhlamvu ezifakwe kwi-rapacejo, ku-lostr back loom. Banikela ngengxenye enhle yesikhathi sabo ekusakazeni nasekufundiseni ukuhweba, kepha kakhulu njengomsebenzi wezenhlalakahle kunendlela enenzuzo.
Kumele kuqashelwe ukuthi i-backstrap loom, ithuluzi elisetshenziswe isikhathi eside ekukhiqizeni, manje sekungumlando; okokuqala ngoba okwamanje bambalwa abakwaziyo ukusisingatha futhi okwesibili ngoba kunezindlela ezishibhile zokukhiqiza i-rebozo.
Ngaphezu kwenkundla yokusebenzela yaseSanta María, kunezinye izikhungo ezweni ezinikele ekusizeni isiko le-rebocera njengeMuseo del Rebozo eLa Piedad, eMichoacán; iWorkshop for Weavers of the Third Age, esungulwe yi-conaculta, e-Acatlán, eVeracruz; kanye neRebocería Workshop yeNdlu Yesiko eTenancingo, eSifundazweni SaseMexico, ephethe ingcweti uSalomón González.
Ukunikela ngalolu hlobo lwesenzo nokwazisa ubuciko namasiko aqukethwe yizingcezu lezi kusivumela ukuthi sigcine amasiko okhokho bethu ephila, kodwa futhi neqiniso lokubuyisa le ngubo ukuze lisetshenziswe nsuku zonke nalo likhuluma ngobuhle bezingubo nentshisekelo kudlula isiko laseMexico.
Ama-shawls avela eSan Luis Potosí ayigugu ngempela, imibala yawo, imiklamo nezinto zokwakha akunakuqhathaniswa emhlabeni, lapho ethole khona imiklomelo eminingi yomhlaba.
Imiphumela emihle
Inqubo yokucacisa ithakazelisa kakhulu futhi iyasebenza. Isinyathelo sokuqala siqukethe ukubilisa noma ukuminyana ngentambo, kuya ngenqubo ezosetshenziswa kanye ne-rebozo okufanele yenziwe; uma "iphunga", intambo kuzofanele ibiliswe enhlanganisweni yamanzi enamakhambi ahlukene, phakathi kwawo kukhona i-mije, i-rosemary ne-zempatzuchitl, kanye nezinye izinto ezigcinwa ngomona njengemfihlo yomndeni; noma 'gaya' isitashi, uma kuyinqubo ejwayelekile.
Ngemuva kwalokho kuzofanela uphenye futhi uthambise umucu, bese 'ubopha ibhola', noma lokho esikwaziyo njengokwenza ama-skeins, ngalesi sikhathi ochwepheshe badaya intambo ngamafomula ahlukile azonikeza imithunzi ehlukahlukene yesimodeli shawl .
Isinyathelo esilandelayo ngesinye sezinto ezibaluleke kakhulu: i-warping, equkethe ukubeka intambo ku-loom, ukulandelela nokuklama izinhlaka ezizogqokwa umzimba weshawuli. Lokhu kufaka phakathi, ngokungeziwe kulayini, ukuvikela izingxenye ongafuni ukuzidaya (ukuze ungadideki nedayi eyisisekelo yangaphambilini).
Kepha ngokungangabazeki iphuzu elibaluleke kakhulu, ngoba ikakhulu linquma ikhwalithi yocezu, ukucaciswa kwe-rapacejo noma lokho esingakubiza ngokuthi umphetho weshali, okuyingxenye ethwala umsebenzi onzima kakhulu nobude bawo bungaqhubeka kufika ezinsukwini ezingama-30. Lokhu kungaboshwa noma kuboshwe, futhi kungakhombisa ama-frets, izincwadi noma izibalo Namuhla singathola izitayela ze-jarana, igridi noma i-petatillo.
